I know this has come up a few times, people asking how to do it... what parts to get... yatta yatta yatta.

Well, I figured since I am in the middle of swapping over to SPC upper A arms, Blazer spindles and brakes, and taller ball joints I could share a little info.

The cheapest way I found was buying the parts separately. I believe the price for the "set" for a g-body was about $60 US. Well I can say this cost a little less.

Parts:

EAR-63010112ERL x2 (9.88 @ summit racing.com)

These are your actual brake lines, everything else listed will be fittings. I used 14 inch lines, but 12 will be good enough. 10 is too short, in case you are wondering. You can also go for the brake line that has a 90 degree bend in it, it will cost a little bit more, but make sure you plan before you buy and you should have significantly less problems.

next up is your banjo fitting. If you are using the stock calipers this part number 997631ERL is good enough.
7.39 x2 @ Summitracing.com


If you are using say, Blazer calipers you need more length or you cannot get a seal. I used part number 9978036ERL. 14.95 x2 @ Summitracing.com

Lastly you need the adapter to go from -3AN to the 3/8-24 brake fitting. Now anyone worth his weight in wrenches knows that -3AN and 3/8-24 is so close you don't need an adaptor... BUT this adaptor provides you with a way to fasten your new brake line to the frame using the brackets already there! Part number 989543ERL is what you need. 5.39 x2 at Summitracing.com




Total? 45.32 plus shipping, handling, and tax. Enjoy!

I just did mine today and what a snap! All the parts fit like it was said too. I ended up using only 9" lines since I have the SSBC calipers and the connection is father up. An hour per side and I even checked all movement at each extreme. THANKS AGAIN FOR DOING ALL THE BRAIN WORK!

jes wondering,..what does this swap affect on the brakes? Is it for looks, replacement or does it actually make the brakes better and how so?

The braided lines dont do a hole lot, never used the braided lines, but from what it looks like, it makes it look better, and lasts alot longer than the rubber.

Braided steel lines can increase the pedal firmness since they cant expand like the old rubber lines.

Replacement, AND gives a more positive pedal feel. The braided brake hoses do not expand when pressure is applied to them, like the rubber based hoses do.

Hey guys can you help me with mine please. I have this kit still in the box part #140-11009-D located here ... http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKitListFront.aspx?make=Chevrolet&model=Monte%20Carlo&year=1986 its the fourth one down. They offer this kit as a universial kit. However I would rather use the fittings and similar parts as you all have because I don't want the 14in line and the 89.00 charge for the kit when I can get it for cheaper. Can anyone tell me which lenght would be best and which fitting I would need. Thanks

cant find a part number for the clips but I believe this is what ill need. Am I correct?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LNG-45233/?rtype=10
Doyou think these two will come with the caps like the one under it?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-581531ERL/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-989543ERL/

x2 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-63010112ERL/?rtype=10

I replaced mine with steel braided lines a couple years ago. They do look nice and they can give a firmer pedal, but in my case I was replacing the stock original rubber lines so I was getting an inexpensive piece of mind.

If you've ever blown a brake line while driving you know what I'm talking about.

How about the rear hose and T fitting? any part #'s for these?
Thanks
Dave

Russell #692100 is all 3 hoses (front/rear), premade with all correct fittings for $65.

great info, im gonna be upgrading to the Blazer caliper setups so this will come in handy. Thanks

What sizes and parts are used on the rears? I proved you can do the front's cheaper than the front set. I might be able to do the rears cheaper as well.

Has anyone used the Russell Kit? Experiences< any realized benefit? I updated my brakes to Summit cross drilled/slotted, and Hawk HPs and found the Russell's on Amazon for under 60 w/ free shipping...

How is the install and quality compared for example to the Goodridge G- Stop braided lines?

I installed a Russell Kit on my '01 Silverado. I have nothing to compare them to, but the quality appears good and plenty of guys over at fullsizechevy.com run them. My only complaint was the length of the front hoses. The instructions say to run them approx. the same as the originals, but they're too short for that. I believe the kit included the compression washers, but did not include new banjo bolts.

The Russell kit is horrible. If you do order it order two, because you most likely will get a rear line that will not be fully machined for the hardline and will not seal.
The rear line block is thinner than the factory unit, the shouldered bolt will bottom out and the block will be loose, you will need a washer to clamp the block in place. There is the goofy nut attachment that Russell used rather than the simple C-clip from the factory. You will find yourself attempting to install this jantastic nut before you can install the hard line connection. All the while DOT 3 is leaking all over you.

Once you have completed that nutter of a job, you get to install the front lines which are nearly as bad. What I really don't like about these is that the lines do not have any kind of locking device to keep the line clocked correctly. It can rotate in the front hanger. I'm sure a few good cycles of the front suspension will eventually cause the hard line to fail as it is twisted.

Avoid the Russell kit at all costs, they do not even have it labeled correctly. "'83-88 Monte Carlo, Gran Prix" Why would it not work on a Cutlass, Malibu, Regal, LeMans, El Camino,etc?

does someone have a picture of the stainless steel brake lines listed above. im looking for a picture of the brake lines installed.. im finishing up my blazer hubs and brake swap and im trying to figure out the brake lines. it seems like they are too long. by the way i have the 12" stainless brake lines and the adapters listed above by Tony (kubihibi) thanks guys

Ok, I just read on my SSBC instructions that braided lines do not firm up the pedal. A soft pedal is due to poor bleeding and replacing them with braided is only for looks, as the rubber lines are good up to 3000 psi (stock system puts 1400psi up front) so this might be another myth that somehow braided lines are superior to factory rubber replacements.

I would imagine that replacing old stock rubber lines with anything will firm up the pedal. Comparing new rubber to braided.. yeah, I could see not much difference. True??

Braided lines may not make the pedal feel firmer, but they are more durable than the rubber lines which can be punctured by anything sharp...

These are pics of the Russell kit installed on my Monte





They fit perfectly for me and I had no problems at all, no washers required and no leaks. Not sure why madmike had problems, maybe he was sent the wrong parts?

The rear line is a little bit longer than it needs to be, but not long enough to be a problem. The fronts are just the right length.

Correct me if I am wrong, but rubber brake lines are just that - rubber hose. Rubber will flex when pressurized. Braided steel brake lines have a teflon hose internal to the braises steel sheath. The hose does not flex (compared to the rubber), allowing less energy to be wasted creating a longer lasting (through the life of the parts) hard pedal feeling.

I would agree. The only argument I would see regarding going with new rubber or braided would be the new rubber would eventually break down and flex more again.

the difference is in the liner that actually holds the pressure- stock rubber hoses use rubber that swells up and brakes down. braided lines are built around a teflon hose that won't break down and holds pressure better.

cut apart a stock rubber line, and you will find a layer of steel braiding between layers of rubber.
cut apart a braided line, and you will find a teflon core surrounded by rubber, which is then surrounded by braided steel.

i'd say they are worth the money- they aren't that much more expensive than stock replacements, and barring anything hitting or crushing them, they will last forever.

I upgraded to Russel braided steel brake lines some years back. I know its a bit late to change your mind, and thats ok because to each his own. However, I personally regret the upgrade. There was no noticible improvement in braking distances, and I did not expect there to be. The thing that I did not like was the way pedal movement was effected.
Normally when you hit the brakes, the pedal travels an inch or 2 and then you begin to feel more resistance. The harder you depress the pedal, the father it moves, the faster the car stops. Those rubber lines are clearly what allows for more pedal movement. Because with stainless lines, you depress the pedal roughly that inch or 2, and the resistance goes up.. way up. You continue to apply more and more pressure, and the car does stop faster, just as the same amount of pressure would before. But the extra pressure doesnt let that pedal move any farther beyond that initial 1 or 2 inches. It was very disorienting for me. When I want to stop quicker, I am used to having the pedal travel father as I push harder.

Again, the steel lines worked fine, the car stopped when you hit the brakes. I just miss not having the excessive(normal) amount of brake travel caused from rubber expanding lines.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_stainlesssteel_Q&A.shtml

Should have posted that earlier.