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Kirban Performance sells the bolt kit for $28 or so IIRC.


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1985 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS
5.7 LITRE / TES Headers / SShaker Hood / WC T-5 5-Speed
1970 Pontiac GTO
Orbit Orange Judge Re-creation / YZ RAIII 400 / M21 4-Speed
85_SS #657078 03/07/09 04:28 AM
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There is a LOT of great info here. That being said i'm a little slower than some when it comes to understanding this stuff. I bought an energy suspension kit, and if i remember right there was only about 7-8 bushings in that kit. does anyone have any actual pictures that they could email to me(yoursuperman11@yahoo.com)(sorry but i'm still deployed) I really just want to take out some of the 20 year old body roll out of this thing.

onecool86 #657134 03/07/09 06:23 AM
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Hey Brad.

I have not taken pics, but I will try and do that for you. I want to say thanks for your willingness to serve. I will pray for your safe return.

Here is a thread over on the TurboBuick site that I was participating in that has the G-body manual page that shows mount positions 2-7.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/brakes-suspensions-tires-wheels/270166-body-bushings.html

There are seven body mount positions. The radiator core support is position 1 and takes two mounts each. 2-4 and 6-7 are sets of uppers between the body and frame and lowers below the frame. The way it works is downward force on the body pushes on the upper bushing and the force is cushioned. If the body shifts so that one side tries to "lift off" of the frame, the lower bushing is "pulled up" by the washer and bolt head and cushioned.

So 6 positions have 2 each. position 5 has one. Each side has 13. A full set should be 26.

I have seen the Energy suspension kits with 24 (none for positions 5.



Mount position 5 is an odd looking cushion that just sits between the body and frame just inside of the frame rail on the hump that goes over the rear axle.

Here is the energy suspension kit

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3%2E4141

It looks like a 26 piece kit.


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1988 MCSS T-Tops. Frame off restoration, 330HP 350 crate engine, 700R4 transmission.
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I take back the comment that I have seen Energy suspension kits with 24. The ones I am finding now all have 26.


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thanks for the info. I'll have to take another look at the kit I have when I get home and go from there.

onecool86 #657491 03/08/09 05:58 AM
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Took some pics today. Our body is not off yet, but can see several since we are down to frame and main body section. Will try and upload this week.


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From the GM shop manual for model year 88, but they should all be the same except for the GN bushing (#5).




1987 Monte SS t-top - building slowly, but it will go fast when it's done....
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2013 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLT
2011 GMC Acadia SLT1 (family rig)
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go3and8 #659700 03/13/09 11:21 PM
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Thanks Steve,

This is a great add.

Larry


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I figured it was the perfect place for it.


1987 Monte SS t-top - building slowly, but it will go fast when it's done....
A cellar full of parts
2013 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLT
2011 GMC Acadia SLT1 (family rig)
2008 Silverado 2500 HD (work truck)
go3and8 #659746 03/14/09 02:19 AM
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In the energy suspension kit I got it had insturctions with the the mount locations printed on there


Craig

1986 Monte Carlo SS T-Tops White SOLD
2003 Chevy Avalanche Z71

http://www.motortopia.com/monte7852ss/cars
monte7852 #659805 03/14/09 04:16 AM
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Are they essentially the same as what Steve put up, or would they help the guys that go poly?


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My front bushings ,(position # 1),are getting worn out,so I just called my local GM dealer & ordered a pair of each of # 457915 & # 348080.They arent cheap,$ 17 & $ 20 each,(maybe a little cheaper),but mine should be replaced.They'll be here Monday AM,so we'll see if they make a difference.The rest of the bushings appear to be in good condition,so I'll leave them for now.
Guy


GuysMonteSS '86 SS,513 BBC,AFR Heads,UDHarold/Bullet Custom Solid Roller Cam,706 lift,255/263 @ .050,Jesel Shaft Rockers,Balanced & Blueprinted,Doug Nash 4+1 5 Speed,Hurst In-Line Shifter,Ford 9 Inch Rear,SC&C Street Comp Stage 2+ Front End Kit...
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At GMPartsdirect OEM are $8.78 each--but you have to pay shipping.


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And where I live in Canada,there is also the difference in the dollar,and brokers/customs fees as well.So it would probably work out to be the same,or a little cheaper in Canada.MM,did you get yours all installed yet ?? Did it make much of a difference ??
How do I go about changing the front ones ??
Guy


GuysMonteSS '86 SS,513 BBC,AFR Heads,UDHarold/Bullet Custom Solid Roller Cam,706 lift,255/263 @ .050,Jesel Shaft Rockers,Balanced & Blueprinted,Doug Nash 4+1 5 Speed,Hurst In-Line Shifter,Ford 9 Inch Rear,SC&C Street Comp Stage 2+ Front End Kit...
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GM Parts Direct also won't ship to Canada.


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1985 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS
5.7 LITRE / TES Headers / SShaker Hood / WC T-5 5-Speed
1970 Pontiac GTO
Orbit Orange Judge Re-creation / YZ RAIII 400 / M21 4-Speed
85_SS #695710 06/20/09 02:42 AM
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Gotcha on the Canada shipping.

As far as our work. We are slow. Without a garage heater we spent the winter researching and buying parts.

Took off the body early spring --only broke off two bolts. Both were position 3. Interesting thing was that they both had a collar around the bolt poking down into the body bushing. Some added research showed that the collar was used on occasion at position 3 and/or position 4. Gonna have to cut the rocker to get to them from the top.

We got the frame blasted (tried various rust removal stuff, but for a volume item blasting is the only way to go). Used etching primer and epoxy paint. The frame and all of our front end/rear end suspension parts are just about done. Getting the finishing touches on the LS1 brake makeover on Monday.

Maybe next week--we put it all together and have a rolling chassis minus the engine/transmission.


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As far as replacing the front ones, I have everything apart, so it is hard for me to think back.

I remember the core support had a bolt (I think from the top) through a washer, then the top bushing behind under the headlight assembly area of the radiator core support. Under the core support there was the lower bushing which mated with the upper bushing through the core support 1 1/2" hole. That bushing was on a washer which was on the frame extension. You get to the nut and washers from the underside of the frame box extension.

Now since I took my whole front end off, I had the lights out and the radiator out, etc. I am not sure, but I think you should loosen the fan shroud and you may want to take the headlight assembly out. You will need to raise the core support a bit to get the body bushings out. I remember hitting the bolts with PB blaster a bunch for a day or two before I loosened the bolts.

Look carefully at the hole in the core support to see how thin it is. My rust issue was not bad at this hole, but I am glad I got to it and blasted, etching primed and epoxy painted. If it was much worse, I would have had to weld in a patch and re-cut the hole.

As far as what I hope to get out of it, we should get a bit stiffer on the front end (but I think bracing is a bigger help in that area). As long as we had gotten the car torn down as far as we had, we needed to finish the job. Get the sagging mounts and fix the thin holes before the body mounts collapsed into some of the thinner rusty holes.

Hope this helps


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Originally Posted By: GuysMonteSS
How do I go about changing the front ones ??
Guy


Just loosen the bolt & remove it through the frame on the underside. Now take a jack & place it under the core support & jack it up just enough to get the lower bushing out from under it. everything will flex enough to not worry about unbolting anything else. Take note of any washers under the bushing, they are there for alignment purposes. Replace with the new bushing & washers in their original location. Do one side at a time & you'll make out fine.

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Guy,
I just installed Prothane body mounts on the whole car. Took me one day and mine were so worn out the bushings raised the car 1/2" all the way around.
Position 1 - Rad Support. These is together with bolt and nut, just loosen the bolt and drop the nut underneath, you can lift the front clip enough to slide the bushing out since they are all worn out anyway. Just slide the big bushing in between the body/frame with a washer on top, then put the top bushing on with a washer on that, then slide the bolt through the top of the body through the frame and put a washer and nut through the bottom of the frame.
Position 2-7 is all straight forward, mine all loosened eaasily and just jck the body high enough to slide out the old bushing and install the new one then ratchet the bolts back with any washers the body may have had.

the ones in the trunk the floor will need to be cut most likely because they bolt may be seized


489 BBC, Eagle Steel 4.250 Crank, Eagle 6.385 Forged Rods, SRP 0.030 Flat Top Forged Pistons, Crane Z 244/256 .632/.632 Roller Cam, Pro Comp 320cc Heads, Harland Sharp 1.7 Roller Rockers, Weiand 8-71 Blower, 2 x 800cfm Barry Grant Mighty Demon Blower Carbs. TH400 Trans Brake, Full Manual Reverse Valve Body. QP Ford 9" 3.70 Gears Spool 31 Spline.
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Well I replaced the front bushings today.I used the # 457915 & 348080 bushings as sugested by MattsMonte.As soon as I got the old ones out,I noticed a difference between the new & old.The old ones,(bottoms), sat in a cup with a steel bushing that goes through to the uppers,the new ones were slightly different,the bushing wasnt nearly as long.So I took the new bushings out of the cup they came in and put them in the old ones,it seemed like the best way to reassemble them.Heres a couple of pictures;



The top picture is the new bushings in the cup they came in,the bottom is after I switched them around.I got the wife to help out for a minute,she helped with getting the nut on and tightening up.
Guy


GuysMonteSS '86 SS,513 BBC,AFR Heads,UDHarold/Bullet Custom Solid Roller Cam,706 lift,255/263 @ .050,Jesel Shaft Rockers,Balanced & Blueprinted,Doug Nash 4+1 5 Speed,Hurst In-Line Shifter,Ford 9 Inch Rear,SC&C Street Comp Stage 2+ Front End Kit...
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Interesting. My 88 had no such cup.
I found a collar inside of position 3, however, that descends into the lower bushing.


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Larry,if yours had no cup like mine,what did they have ?? There appeared at one time to have been some kind of collar in between the upper & lowers,(# 1 position),but there wasnt much left of it.I thought that where these bushings were originally intended for a different position that thats why the cups were different,and it looked like the original cups were there to keep the bushings lined up properly,so I re-assembled it accordingly.
Guy


GuysMonteSS '86 SS,513 BBC,AFR Heads,UDHarold/Bullet Custom Solid Roller Cam,706 lift,255/263 @ .050,Jesel Shaft Rockers,Balanced & Blueprinted,Doug Nash 4+1 5 Speed,Hurst In-Line Shifter,Ford 9 Inch Rear,SC&C Street Comp Stage 2+ Front End Kit...
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If I remember 86 and under had the cup....87+88 did not.


1987 Monte SS t-top - building slowly, but it will go fast when it's done....
A cellar full of parts
2013 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLT
2011 GMC Acadia SLT1 (family rig)
2008 Silverado 2500 HD (work truck)
go3and8 #696972 06/23/09 01:20 PM
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I am staring at the old body mounts. When I took them off, I put them together again with the bolt through them. The bolt goes from the under side through four washers (four thick ones on one side, three thick and one thin one on the other side). Then the 348080, then the 1255795 (which looks a lot like 457915), then the nut. The 348080 comes with a molded in steel collar. That is the only thing that is used.

Been a bit since they were on the car, but since I reassembled as I took them off, labeled and bagged them, I am sure this is how they were.


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I will try and take pic for you. I am not so good at figuring out the upload to this posting site.


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1988 MCSS T-Tops. Frame off restoration, 330HP 350 crate engine, 700R4 transmission.
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