Aux coolers Version 1.0
Last modified in Winter 2006
To view images full screen right click and "view image"
Ok this is my adventures with oil and tranny coolers. dont be offended if im spelling stuff out. maybe someone (much like myself) will read this some day, someone who has very little experience. Keep the comments constructive as I am a noobie myself. budget a good amount of coin, between 2 and 3 hundred dollars and a full weekend, or one full day. if all goes well, one day, imo.
Lets get started.
What you will need
Two oil/tranny coolers: 24,000 GVW, 15.5'' x 10'' x 3/4'' [Perma Cool #1024]
sandwich oil adapter [Perma Cool#189]
Two 3/8" to 6AN fittings to connect push lock hose to oil adapter [Russel #660460]
Two ?/?" invert flare to 6AN fittings to connect push lock hose to transmission send and return ports. Admin edit this line and pull up a part no if possible thank you. or someone PM me and I will make the appropriate edit.
Russel push lock hose 6AN 25 foot length [Russel #634160]
push lock swivel fittings. up to you as to how you want to enter and exit the coolers. depending on how far behind the wall of air box you install your coolers will dictate what kind of a fitting you want to install. coolers installed in a manner that positions them very close the air box wall will allow the installation of angled fittings. coolers installed deeper inside the air box may require a straight fitting, as an angled fitting may not clear your hole. I recommend straight fittings, a total of four, for the two coolers. You could then use some coiled hose shapers that you find in big chain auto stores.
External transmission filter (optional) [Perma Cool #10678]
bypassing transmission fluid from the main radiator will reduce the volume of fluid that the transmission system will circulate, somewhat I suppose, not an expert. In the interest of holding more fluid this big filter will make up for whatever losses suffered from bypassing the coolant radiator. I have seen transmissions completely annihilated due to radiators failure to keep the two fluids separate. The choice, is yours to make. Remove all possibility, or gamble your power train? again, another debate and topic all its own.
thermal sleave (optional). running the hose from my transmission past full length headers brings the hose in close contact to heat. I chose to shield them from that radiant heat source. [Thermo Tec #14010]
1" corner beam, steel/metal
1" metal flat /steel stock
someone who can weld
die grinder (to clean up welds, optional)
some old heater hose
an exacto knife
sharp drill bits to cut into heavy steel stock
some hole saw drill bits (I used 1 1/2")
rust proof paint
below is a long, detailed description of how the entire process played out for me. I chose to put all photos at the end. Read one part at a time and if there is some unclarity page down to see if there is a visual reference. I will be updating this page in the future with the hopes of writing a shorter cleaner installation write up, possibly with some measurements. This whole build is going to be centered around your ability to trial fit. You are going to need to trail fit the steel stock to steel stock, the fabbed C-channels to air box, the radiators to C-channel, the radiators to access holes in the air box, the length oh hoses.
More thoughts, Real pro workmanship would be to use hard line for all fluid connections. However for those of us who are not hardened professionals with god like skills the use of hose makes this installation very forgiving and easy to work with in this application. and now the write up. Enjoy
As you can see this combo of coolers Juuust barely fits. In another members scrap book he had smaller coolers laid down on the diagonal of the air box. I originally wanted to do it that way. the air flow to the radiator from the grill would basically be all but non affected. but these "Be-Cool" radiators would not lay down. One would and did, the other would not because of that center support piece. It was sooo close. even if they did I couldnt think of a good way to mount them there. would also make for trouble shooting more difficult? So I decided to build very simple frames (two "C channels") to sandwich these radiators. and I was coming home one night and saw what looked liked a welding light show from a backyard accross the street. I knocked on his door and to my delight he was very happy to throw down some welds for me.
The how to:
I got some pieces of wood and trial fitted them inbetween the walls of the radiator housing. Important! make sure that you will have room on the ends to get a wrench in there to tighten the push lock fittings. I messed up the top rail. I got all the way to install and had to take it out and cut it because the fitting would screw in and stop because there was material in the way (see photo with red dotted lines, I had to cut there)
back to the story. When I was happy I had my measurements. I had the C channel welded, using the corner and the 1" stock. The stock was welded to the corner with a metal nail inbetween the two (if you look real close in the photo you can see the gap it made. This gap will also act as a drain for any liquids that collect in there. nice =) when it was done I took it accross the street to the car and got inside the engine bay. I then took small pieces of 1" stock to use as the tabs to fasten this to the car. I used exsisting holes to determine where these would be placed. There are more than one to choose from. use your best judment. I went back accross the street and told him where to weld. He tack welded, went back accross the street. made adjustments and had him welded it for good. Next I took a nail and went from the back, through the exsisting holes, and made some scratches. Now I knew where to drill holes through the tabs. I also had to drill through some of the frame. youll see if you do something similar, no big deal just had to widen the hole. not too much of a PITA. Drill them out. your C channels are now made. Paint them. I used epoxy black for metal from home depot.
More trial cutting.
cut some pieces of heater hose. lay them down on the little metal tabs (see photo with red circle). This is to prevent metal to metal contact and reduce vibration. just a soft padding for this to sit on. hopefully your car has or will have some day a decent shake to it =) now lay down your bottom channel. now put your radiators in. at this time you can see where you want to start cutting into your monte (cringes). with the 1 1/2" hole saw its going to cut a pretty big hole. So there is juust a little room for error if you think you cut too high or too low. go ahead, do whatever trial markings you want. make sure your going to be able to get the fitting on from the outside, inteference etc etc. Go ahead and have at it. My hole saw really powered through that sheet metal or whatever it is. I would NOT recomend using a drill bit. There are two sheets of metal to get through at the top. w/e cut your holes. when done its a good idea to get a paint brush and hit it with paint protect that fresh exposed metal.
cut up some heater hose. without any padding between the C channel and the radiator it was snug with some slack in it. The heater hose was too fat and i could not wedge it between the radiator supports and the floor/wall (only one side of the wall) of the C channel. So I took an exacto knife with a new sharp blade and started to fillet the heater hose to make it thiner. I then make and "L" of the small piece of heater hose and put them in the corner of the C channel in four places, two for each rail of the radiator. I then had to use some force (not alot) and used the palms of my hands to seat them in there tight. And they were just that. Tight. the backs are channel to radiator contact but front is squished between heater hose. I tugged on them up and down. going NO where. I did the same with the top. That system is now snug and a bit padded against vibration, movment etc. I had to take them out latter on and i had to really pull on them to pry them lose. Its tight without being crushed. sweet.
Now install the sandwich oil filter adapter to the bypass filter area on the bottom of the engine. just follow the instructions its not hard. might have to get a new filter that will mate to the thread and diamater of the O ring. Do some trail fitting with the hose. cut the hose. Press on the push fittings. USE LUBE!! need some elbow grease to get them on there. I have full length headers so for the hose that exists the sandwish adapter I put a sleave of thermo sleave on. Use an open end wrench and snugh all the fittings to the radiators. Feed from the outside. I was able to hand tighten them from the outside of the radiator box. then I came from the inside and finshed up with a wrench.
Note: If you use these Be Cool radiators there is a provision for an open ended wrench. get a wrench on there to prevent it from breaking off when you put the muscle into the fitting. Noob moron that I am started turning the wrench on the fitting on the radiator and that male port on the radiator moved just a little. A barage of curse words entered my mind. I almost do not like these radiators or recomend them. A little frail, and you have to be carefull not to break of the male fitting ends. I think they are glued/pressed on in place. Dosent anyone make a quality product anymore? as long as you are not a gorilla you should be fine. Its what I had and rolled with it.
Thats about it for the oil cooler. I went ahead and replaced the hard line transmission lines with push lock hose. I have a 700R4 so I went from the (bottom port) on the 700R4;
invert flare-to-6AN fitting to a 6AN fitting to a length of hose into a pipe-to-6AN fitting on the external fillter. filter to top of the trans cooler. bottom of the cooler back to the transmission (top port of 700R4 is the return line). Between all that extra line and that big xxxx filter the trans should never see damaging temperatres. I also have a nice trans pan that holds an addition 2 quarts. a 700R4 holds 8 quarts if im not mistaken, plus the extra 2 in the pan, plus an extra 2, maybe, between the hose cooler and filter. so thats 11 quarts of fluid. Also any hose running near my headers I put thermal sleave on.
I think thats going to about do it. wasnt too difficult. Just alot of trial fitting. turns out to be alot of work. If you have some very good planing and good work ethic you could maybe get this done in one day, if everything goes very smoothly. took me a few days working at my lesiure and running into problems, going and getting the hole saw, cutting, cutting more. getting all of those fittings on.
as the fittings, I used straight fittings where I could in combination with wide gentel bends in the hose. If I had to make a 90 degree bend, only once I used 45 and 45. repeate after me. Tho shall not make 90 degree bends. I researched that this is a no no for fuel lines. I adopted this doctrine over to any and all lines in the vehicle where possible. I want a unrestricted flow as I can get. [EDIT: I ate up a CHP article, and I feel 90s are OK- I think I was a bit gullible in my research, I also think they, CHP, was talking about no mandrel 90s, like this harsh squared type fittings, I dont see any reason why 90's would be an issue]
heres a picture of the 1" Corner beam welded to the 1" stock with small lengths of 1" wide tabs. The dotted red line is where I should have stopped originally. I had to take them off cut that end off and throw some paint on the fresh metal where I cut. PITA, my fault tho.
After thought. I was thinking of possibly using a coupler off of the radiator then a union. This would alow you to remove the hose from the coolers without having to remove or losen your main radiator. Just a thought. Im going all in and hoping I did a good job and there will be no leaks. lets rock!