CELEBRATING 20 YEARS!

CS144 Alternator Conversion
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Tired of 85 to 95 AMPs of power? Well this simple swap will get you 140 AMPs of juice to power most everything any regular driver will need. With my aftermarket CD player (no subs), headlights, A/C, and wipers going, I am still hitting over 12.5 volts. With my old SI alternator I was lucky to hit 12.5 with nothing on!
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Supplies

CS144 Alternator - you can get these from any parts store if you ask for an alternator for any of the following:
(1994-96) Buick Roadmaster 5.7L
(1993-96) Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (RWD) 5.7L
(1993-96) Chevrolet Caprice 4.3L, 5.7L
(1995-96) Chevrolet Impala 5.7L
(1992-95) Chevrolet Lumina APV Van 3.8L
(1992-95) Oldsmobile Silhouette 3.8L
(1992-95) Pontiac Trans Sport 3.8L
AC Delco part 10463338.
Picture - CS144 alternator:


Wiring harness/adapter - if you have a parts store that knows anything you should be able to go in and ask for an "SI to CS conversion harness" otherwise just go to the dealer and ask for:
Delco 8078/GM 12102921 if you have a volt gauge or
Delco 8077/GM 12083462 if you have an "idiot" light.


Picture - Wiring harnes (8078) (note the resistors in the wires)


Optional:
Alternator bracket kit - I've read many reports about the CS alternator not fitting properly so that the user is not able to tighten the brackets all the way. In my install I was able to install everything perfectly with no fit problems at all. You can go chrome universal (Spectre or Mr. Gasket)
Picture - my stock bracket:

Picture - Chrome bracket:

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Directions

1. Unhook negative battery cable.
2. Loosen alternator and remove belt.
3. Remove alternator.
4. Change alternator pulleys if necessary (use an impact wrench)
5. If you are using the stock brackets, the arm on the lower bracket will not bolt on to the alternator. That is OK. The lower bracket is used just to support the weight of the alternator. Simply loosely attach the top of the alternator so you don't have to hold it up. Next put the lower bracket in between the block and alternator, slip the long bolt through and tighten into the original hole on the block.
Pictures - lower bracket:


6. Loop belt around all necessary pulleys and back around alternator pulley.
TIP: Use the best belt you can find. When I first did this swap, I used a 5 dollar belt. Every time my alternator kicked in my belt would squeak for a few seconds. I went back and got a Gates belt (23 bucks) and no more squeaks.
7. This is easiest if you have two people. The CS style alternators are meant to be in cars that have serpentine belt systems so the top hole is not threaded like the stock alternator. You will need a big bolt and a big nut (I don't know what size specifically is needed, I just found something in my garage). Next pull back on the alternator and have your buddy tighten the nut/bolt with two wrenches.
8. Plug in wiring harness and reconnect the tickle/trigger wire.
Picture - Wiring harness:

9. Reconnect battery wires.

Picture - Final install:

Be careful of the plastic fans and high rpms.
I had one come apart at the track and it cut though the hood and beat up both fenders, due to high rpm (8000) with standard drive pulleys the steel fan is a direct replacement.
I don't know the part # but I called powermaster and they sent me a metal replacement that bolted right up that looks like the stock fan from the older alternator.

Nice writeup!

Another way that I have used to tighten the belt is to use a pry bar and that circular hole in the top of the alternator bracket. Use a rag if you are afraid of marring your alternator and/or bracket.

when I put my cs-144 in I drilled and tapped a 3/8" x 1" piece of steel on the upper alt bolt and just used a regular wrench to tighten up. Steve

what is the purpose of the resistors,and are they req'd?

The resistors provide a "tickle" for the charging sensor. The alternator was designed for a car that has a "dummy" light, which provides resistance for that sensor. So, if your car has no dummy light, there is no resistance, so there has to be a resistor somewhere in the system to provide a load.

What if I have the plug from the donor car and want to merge the harnesses what do I do for resistors? And which of the two small wires do I use?

an upper alt bracket from a car or truck with HD charging will bolt right up- they have at he bigger 14SI alternator that puts out like 120 amps. look under the hoods of Caprice cop cars and station wagons. you can even get the spacer thing on the big lower bolt and bolt it right up to the newer alternator if you want it to look really stock.
if you want a bolt in alt that has a threaded upper hole, then get one for a 97 Olds Aurora. they are 144amps and have a bigger lug on the back for the charging wire.

I may have to look into getting a different upper bracket.

My stock 1986 bracket works, HOWEVER I did not like how it fit.

I started installing the alternator by bolting it on with the bottom bolt and bracket (left loose).

I then installed the upper bracket and left the bolts finger tight. Next I tried rotating the alternator into position and no go... It hits the bracket.

I tried removing the bolt that holds the alternator bracket into the intake manifold. That helped but I didn't like only having two bolts holding the alternator in place. I then tried prying up on the upper bracket to make it fit, the move I moved it up the more the bracket moved forward. So I said heck with it and ran a bolt through and tightened it up. Well it didn't looks straight. So I ended up using the lower bolt as a guide for keeping the alternator straight and in place while I fooled around with the upper bracket. End result was three washers between the upper alternator bolt and the upper bracket. Now if anyone looks under my hood they probably will never know the difference. But it bugs me that I had to use three washers to keep the alternator straight.
I will be on the look out for a new set of brackets.

All in all it's still a great upgrade.

Down at the bottom of the link below, you will find a wiring diagram for the ALT, you only need to add a 50 ohm 5 watt resistor to the L wire. This is a 25 cent resistor!! and the the adapters are like $20.00 plus $8-9.00 shipping now... HTHs

http://www.gilbertautoparts.com/ChevySmallBlockV8s/385turnkeyparts.cfm

im looking at getting 1 of these in a week. Im not sure i understand the whole resistor deal. The alternator wont work properly if there isnt a resistor? My volt gauge isnt being used right now and voltage isnt hooked up, can i jes bolt the new ALT up, not connect volt connector and be fine?

I just finished doing this upgrade this afternoon. Here are some things that I found as I went through that are not listed in the original post, but may be helpful to those considering this...

First, a question I had a while ago, you don't have to upgrade your battery cables to do this.

Seconds, it is possible to use the stock alternator bracket, however the spacer on the long bolt that goes between the alternator and the block is bolted to the stock alternator. You will have to unbolt it. It will not bolt to the CS style alternator, so just slip it over the long bolt. Also note that the upper bracket will have to be unbolted from the intake manifold. The CS alternator is larger that the SI, and you can't use the stock upper without unbolting it from the manifold. It may be possible to modify the bracket so that you can keep it bolted to the manifold, but I didn't bother trying and I'm satisfied with the tightness of the new alternator using the upper bracket without the manifold bolt.

Third, on the CS alternator I used (this may or may not be true of all CS alternators, I don't have access to another one to check), the stud on the back that you bolt the battery wire on to is larger than the one on the original SI alternator. Since the terminals are O ring contacts, I modified them by cutting the "O" with a pair of dikes and gently spreading the contacts open, into more of a "U" until they fit over the stud. I'm sure you could just replace the contacts with larger ones, but I didn't happen to have any on hand.

Overall this was an easy upgrade, and I completed it in about an hour and a half. I spent most of the time tightening the belt so that it wouldn't squeal under load.

I checked my battery with a multimeter when I finished, and it read 13v at idle, so I turned on the headlights, high beams, rear defrost, and AC on high. It only dropped to 12v (would drop to about 8.5v with the old alternator), and when I revved the engine in was right back to 13v. No more flickering headlights when the turn signal is on!!

Here's a bit more technical electrical information for the CS style alternators.

The 4 pin plug has connections marked S, F, L and P. NOTE: If your alternator as an 'I' in place of the 'L' connection, see the paragraph below.

S = Sense
F = Failure (Indicator)
L = Lamp
P = Pulse

The 'S' connection connects to a remote voltage sense location. This wire connects to the larger gauge wire that was on the stock SI alternator connector (Not the thick battery wire that connects to the rear of the alternator). As it sounds, the alternator uses this connection to sense the remote voltage to determine if it's sagging (more current required), or not (less current required).

The 'F' connection is the failure indicator and is not used for our setup. It normally would go to a alternator failure indicator in some setups (as opposed to an alternator lamp).

The 'L' connection is the lamp connection. The 'lamp' refers to the typical idiot light for an alternator. This connection requires switched (ignition) voltage through between 35 and 350 ohms of resistance. If the alternator sees below 35 ohms of resistance, the CS alternator will fail eventually. For the 4th Gen Monte Carlo SS, the thin brown wire that normally went to the stock SI alternator is switched voltage, but the resistance is too small. I measured mine at 15 ohms to ground. Since this is less than the 35 ohm minimum requirement for the CS alternator, you need to add a resistor in series with this brown wire, to the 'L' lamp connection. I chose a 40 ohm 5 watt resistor. As long as you keep the total resistance between 35 and 350 ohms, you should be ok. If in doubt, measure the resistance of your brown wire to ground with ignition off to determine your car's baseline resistance.

The 'P' connection is not used in our application. It's a pulsed output that connects to a tachometer in some applications.

For alternators that have an 'I' connection in place of the 'L' connection, the wiring requirements are a bit different. See this link for more information.

Depending on the exact model of alternator you purchase, the rear battery connection may not be convenient, or come too close to other engine components. In this case, you can remove the three bolts holding the alternator together to re-clock the rear. Because of the bosses on the altnerator, you will have to separate the two halves. Be forwarned that doing so will cause the alternator brushes and springs to pop out. Putting them back is simple by using a straightened out paperclip, inserted into the whole at the rear of the alternator which allows the brushes to be held in place while the alternator is apart. Once you have the alternator properly clocked, and the three bolts retorqued, simply remove the paperclip from the hole to release the brushes.

This information should apply to all CS style alternators, whether installed in the stock location on the passenger side of the engine, or on the driver's side of the engine in a serpentine belt setup.

The plug that i have only have wires coming out of the F and L hole. So without the adapter will both wires be connect to the brown wire from the harness with the resistor on the L wire?

You should only use the L connection, with the appropriate resistor in series to the stock brown wire. Do not connect the F connection to anything.

How do you change the pulley on the alternator? I have a serpentine setup....its like 6 grooves. If i find a CS alt with a V-style belt, i wanna be able to change it.

I had to change my pulleys, but it works fine one the best upgrades I ever done, besides the head lights.

With the stock bracket I leaft the bolt at the intake loose and tightened up the alternator, then tightened up the bolt. It tweaked the bracket enough that I could get the bolt tight. I also had to "clearance" the groove enough for a larger bolt to fit through. The upper hole is larger and not threaded so you have to find a larger bolt to fit in it.

That stud on the back was also larger on mine. I keep lots or wiring connectors around so I just put a larger one on. I also swapped out to my original v-belt pulley and have not had an issue. It was approximately the same size. I only paid $20 for my alternator but ordered the harness instead of trying to make one.

The serpentine and v-belt pulleys should be interchangeable. I just received a new aftermarket CS unit and the dummies sent it with a v-belt when it was spec'd for a serp. The aftermarket units are available with both. I'm pretty sure all OEM units were put on cars after v-belts were totally phased out.

Great write-up! Round up a Chrome fan and pulley. Tape off the holes, shoot a coat of gloss black paint and voila! Looks sharp!

will this work on 4.3

The conversion should be the same in every respect!

anyone have a link to purchase the alt online. i checked ebay no luck tho

http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=8710

Beware of the Tuff Stuff alternators if you want it in a timely fashion. Pace thinks they are high quality, but they are basically custom built and it took me at least five weeks to get mine, and another week to get the correct pulley! Other than the delays, it seems like a nice unit...

I got mine at Autozone. Should be able tyo get them at Checker, O'reileys, Rockauto, etc. Look up any of the cars listed in the first post of this topic. Got mine for a pontiac transport.

I did the swap on mine and it's great! But one question.

The wire that hooks up at the back of the alternator to the battery. The old SI one have like a plastic covet to avoid expose terminal. What's everybody doing to their CS?

Mine didn't come with the cover, and for now, I have electric tape wrap around to it. It's ok, but looks ugly.

Any suggestion?

Is there any other alternators with higher amperage output that will also bolt up.

FinallySS,

Try going yarding for one. I have a plastic cover on mine.

Other than? There are at least three aftermarket companies selling CS alts, and I think all of them offer them in higher amps. However, I think powermaster might be the only one with a 200 amp(?)

96amp alternator, Advance Auto Parts p/n 7294. Stock replacement/higher amps.

I have a cs series alternator. It's 185 amps. I think I purchased it off an ebay vendor called Load Boss Altenators. You can hear the difference when between being connected and disconnected. I never put an amp meter on it... but heck, if it runs more than 130 amps, Im good.

Pics??? I would love to see it. 185 amps is gonna build up a lot of heat...I'm curious to see how it sheds heat....I personally haven't had a reason to go over 140 amps but it is interesting nevertheless.

There's nothing different to see on the outside. It looks the same as the regular cs. It did come with a dyno sheet. The alternators from Advance come with a dyno sheet too. I know when you have it unplugged and plug it back in, it will change the idle of the car.

i need a bracket and i can't find one anywhere. which ones did you guys use?

Serpentine. There are plenty of cars that used serpentine brackets. - Camaros, vettes, firebirds, trucks, s10's. The f-body works best. You should be able to pick them up from a salvage yard or ebay. I got mine from ebay and had them powder coated black.

I used my stock bracket. Just put the alternator in with the bolts loose and then tighten down on the bracket, it will fit.

the ears are to big on my alternator i have v belts not serpentine:(

I have V-belt too. What do you mean the ears are too big? What did it come off of? Mine came off of a Caprice with serpentine and I swapped my V-belt pulley onto it.

Hey i'll have to do this too, going from 13-14 volts down to 8 volts everytime its nighttime and i want to run the heat full blast is a real P.I.T.A., 84Supersport so you're saying I can just go get a caprice w/ serp setup alternator and swap pulleys? how hard is it to take the pulley off the old alternator and slap it on the new one?

Thats what I did. You will need to find someone who owns an impact and it will zip it right off. The pulleys were the same size also.

Has anyone been able to find the GM or Delco p/n's listed in the opening post? I had my dealer check today, both are discontinued and do not cross to anything current. I'm looking to do this swap but would rather have a harness I know will work than attempt to re-wire something and risk killing a new alternator.

They are available at the bottom of the page on this link:

http://www.alternatorparts.com/CS-144_Special_offer.htm

Napa has them, I bought one last week. Give them the the GM or Delco part number and they can cross match it to their part number.

I bought my adapter harness at Napa. I cant remember though if the part number worked or if we had to look it up in one of their parts books. But I would try calling Napa.

Napa part no. EC82

Ok I've got the conversion harness and have tested it with a CS alternator so I'm good there. Problem is the alternator does not begin to fit the stock bracket.

In the original posters pictures, it's obvious the top alternator bracket is NOT a stock monte carlo item. I noticed his car is has TPI, possibly an F-body item? Now I'm looking for an alternator that WILL fit the stock bracketry OR the correct bracket to make the 10463338 p/n fit correctly. Not going to serpentine belt just yet either, long story.

It is possible to use the stock alternator bracket, however the spacer on the long bolt that goes between the alternator and the block is bolted to the stock alternator. You will have to unbolt it. It will not bolt to the CS style alternator, so just slip it over the long bolt. Also note that the upper bracket will have to be unbolted from the intake manifold. The CS alternator is larger that the SI, and you can't use the stock upper without unbolting it from the manifold. It may be possible to modify the bracket so that you can keep it bolted to the manifold, but I didn't bother trying and I'm satisfied with the tightness of the new alternator using the upper bracket without the manifold bolt. - BladeofAnduril27

Slotting the bracket hole where it attaches to the intake and washers under it and possibly re-angling the attachment point may get you the clearance needed from the stock bracket

If not this way then a custom bracket that comes up from the water pump, the lower bracket from the water pump to the lower hole and a rear bolt brace to the front of the exhaust manifold

EDIT: the OP's bracket is specific to 85/86 TPI cars and will not work on a carbed intake setup - he shows the difference between the two brackets in his first post on this thread

Hello all.
I'm located far away from the US, haven't got a Monte Carlo, but asking about the cs140, since I've seen, while googling, that the most serious answer was placed here.
My cs140 (1146-21) had only the F and L connectors.
I opened the connector, installing a sense wire also.
The vehicle that I'm installing the alternator is a 58 willys, which it's electrical system was built from scratch by me, and the 90Amp existing alternator has only sense wire, and a 'stupid lamp', the way you call it.

The question –
Will it work with sense and L?
Should I put, in this kind of connecting, the 40ohms resistor, or it becomes unnecessary when using the Sense?

Thanks in advance.
shmil

You don't need the resistor wire when running the "stupid lamp" since the bulb creates all the resistance needed...

I think this may answer your question about the sense wire:
"Three-wire alternator. This is the most effective configuration. Essentially a closed loop "feed back" system. It uses a large battery wire, an ignition and or warning light connection and a voltage sensing wire. The advantages are a) the regulator is activated by the ignition/warning light wire, b) the sense wire, connected directly to the battery, continuously tells the voltage regulator the charge condition of the battery. (this information is significantly more accurate when sourced directly at the battery.) The voltage regulator infinitely varies the alternator output based on this information. No other configuration charges the battery as effectively."

http://www.bernardembden.com/xjs/altmove/index.htm

thank you.

something is not clear enough for me - why, in that case, many Gm vehicles does not use the sense wire? it is so simple. and the 'voltage' is already an inch away (at the batery conection). so using the sense connection should have been the simplest, and the cheapest.
although - they (GM) didn't use it.

anyone knows the answer?

The sense circuit (when used) is intended to be a remote sense of the voltage at the battery, not a local sense of the alternator output. I haven't looked into the details of the sense circuit, but I presume it is a high impedance input, meaning the voltage drop from the sense line is almost nothing. That way the voltage at the battery is what the sense circuit sees at the sense input to alternator. If sense was measured at the alternator battery output, the voltage drop (IR loss for those who understand electrical stuff) across the battery cable would not be taken into account. By having a remote sense, the length and gage of cable between alternator and battery (cable resistance), and the amount of current being drawn through that cable are irrelevant. The alternator supplies whatever power is required to keep the battery within the specified voltage range, as sensed remotely.

Ok guys I have just left the yard and picked up 2 105 amp CS altenators. I used the first page as a guide and I got one off of an Impala/Caprice and the other one off of a Lumina Van. Here is where my problem lies. My car doesnt have a plug on the car, instead it has a wire bolted to the lug on the back that bolts to the battery and also a small wire that's clipped into terminal 2 and it also is bolted to the lug on the back. Help!!! What do I need to do???

I know it sounds confusing but I looked at the original setup again and that's how it is. The funny thing is my voltage guage works, it actually saved me once. The car was wired like this when I bought it over 7 years ago.

I see quite a few people are having problems installing the CS alternator using the factory bracket. I understand if you want to keep the stock look but if you don't, head to your hardware store and pick up a turnbuckle (I think that's what they're called. Used for adjusting fence doors, etc.) It makes tightening the belt very easy and it looks pretty decent. It's cheap and easy to install. I just put in a CS alt because my electric fans put a bit of load on my electrical system. It's a 140 amp from an LT1 Trans Am engine. I picked up the EC82 conversion harness from my local NAPA. Works great!

my alternator went yesterday and i had this problem. tomorrow i'm going to try and find one of these:]

Just came back from NAPA and the dealership and found the Delco and GM numbers listed at the beginning of this thread do not work anymore. NAPA could not cross reference the listed numbers. I did try a large electrical parts and service for automotive here in Seattle Washington and found what I needed. The company name is Romaine Electric. Their part numbers are 50-1243I for cars with a gauge and 50-1243L for cars equipped with an idiot light.

I gave Napa the part number 'EC82' and they pulled it right up. Good job finding alternate pn's, though.

The wire harnesese are also available at the bottom of the page on this link:

http://www.alternatorparts.com/CS-144_Special_offer.htm

I was wondering why everyone is converting and forcing the original CS144 alternators in when this is available. Its a one wire conversion and ut seems to fit like stock.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10123/10002/-1

Because I paid $20 for the working alternator with 30-day warranty and then another $20 for the adapter harness through NAPA. And in my opinion, there wasnt any forcing. Only modification I did was open up the groove in the bracket for adjustment some so the bolt I used would fit and slide back and forth for belt tension. Everything thing else fit great, I just installed the upper bracket loosely before dropping the alternator in and then tightened everything up. It wont fit correctly with everything already tight.

Can I hook these up to an aftermarket volt gauge. I cannot find my alternator wires. Help!!! I am ready to do this swap I've been holding off too long. I've already bought the adapter from napa.

Just a heads up, I have a 84 MC SS. I did the upgrade to a 140 amp with adapter EC82 from Napa and everything bolted right up no mods to anything.. They only thing i needed was a 3/8" nut,bolt,washer and locking washer from OSH. Everything costs me $100 out the door.. took about 30min to do everything

This is a great writeup...I've done this swap on two vehicle one without the resistor and the alt works great but on the second vehicle.the alt refuses to charge the batt and I've been racking my brains to figure out the problem I even took the dash apart to see if the alt wiring (brown) was some how cross from the alt to the fuse panel to the gauge but everything checks out so I think ill try the online resistor and see if that solves my problem.... Thanks for the info hope tis works for me

Ok ..this write is great ....but I have a small problem my alt refuses to charge the battery I've read and tried every conceiveble wiring but the one more coming is alt wire to L terminal and batt terminal to battery and I've even put a resistor inline on the brown wire ...still no charge ...battery fully charged recharged alt
check rechecked all good what I get is starts runs reads 12.5v electric fans comes on drops to 8 or 9v switches of voltage goes up then slowly begins to drop to 6.5v approx. 6.5v and stays there disconnect battery overnite check the next day it reads 10.5-11v but won't crank engine check all wiring no breaks even did a direct wiring from starter and alt just for charging ....any idea what I'm missing

Another source for these alternators is out of 96-98 Buick Le-sabres. It has a extra mounting point on it that could be possibly used for mounting or cut off.
The Le-sabres also have the metal fan for a more original look.

I found the adapter connectors at other auto parts store for various prices:
Autozone- P/N 817-$32.99
Advance Auto Parts- P/N 84731-$21.79

For the top bolt i used a wing nut. the wing hits the bracket and keeps it from turning while you tighten the bolt down

I've been using both the CS130 alternators for years myself and another option is a 5.25" case size (which is the same as stock btw) from a 1988 Olds Firenza with the FI 2.0 4 cyl. It's rated at 105 amps and it fits a stock alt. bracket with no mods needed other than a pulley swap and the EC82 adapter. I just put one in my father-in-laws 70 Monte and did away with his crap externally regulated charging system. His had idiot lights so it was as easy as jumpering the regulator harness, soldering in the brown wire without a resistor and looping back the 10-gauge lead to the charge post-BAM done! If you opr for a turnbuckle style bracket on a gbody though you better be aware of the need for a rear support for the alternator case-using the lower bolt inthe head and the top only securing to the water pump ear is not enough support....high HP motors will have enough torque to twist and break the alternator housing. My advice is to go with a serpentine swap altogether and kill about 6 birds with 1 stone!

NEWS FLASH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

On Rockauto .com: look up Dorman P/N 84731

This is the SI to CS adapter harness.

It is only: $9.06!!!!!!!!!!!!!

looking at the adapter from RockAuto, Advance Autoparts, and Autozone, they don't seem to have the required resistor like the one from Napa has. Just a observation. Would it be a issue to just install a resistor inline.

ok i made a error in my rush to post prices on the other connectors, I neglected to look closely. On the adapter from RockAuto, Advance and Autozone the pins in the connector on the CS side are wrong. NAPA one has them in the correct spots (1 and 3 position) but the others don't (1 and 2 position).

If anyone is looking for the SI to CS harness I have a used one available, if interested PM me for more info.

Great guide. I just finished doing this swap last night on my 85. I ordered a replacement alternator for a 96 impala. I used the napa harness EC82, and swapped pulleys over from Mr. gasket kit #6808($20). I was able to retain the stock bracket by loosening one of the bracket bolts and adjusting with a mallet. Everything bolted in and aligned without issue.

Had my alternator rebuilt but having low voltage at idle. I'm thinking the previous owner may have done an underdrive crank pulley. Does anyone know what the OEM diameter of the crank pulley is. (Turns the fan and alternator only.)

If you are tired of having someone hold the alternator while you tighten the belt, you can tap it using 7/16 tap, either fine or coarse. I used 7/16-20x3/4 bolt and it's holding fine. You probably have to grind the bolt slot for the bracket little wider if you're using the stock bracket. I used both file and Dremel, and only took about 15 minute (maybe little less) to make the slot bigger. Just make sure you do it for the length of the slot so you won't have any trouble in the future when you have to go beyond where you have the bolt right now.