My T56 is a 2.97 1st gear.
Here's the 1st gear calculations.
Input gear is 38 tooth which turns a 29 tooth on the counter shaft. On the other end of the counter shaft a 19 tooth gear which turns a 43 tooth gear on the output shaft.
So ratio is;
38 divided by 29 X 43 divided by 19 = 2.9655 which is 2.97 1st gear.

Liberty Trans treated me very well for parts, ask for Paul.

With only about 4K miles on my brand new T56 a decade ago I broke the 3/4 keys in the 3/4 synchro, this was years before solid keys were available from all the venders today. Called Tremec factory tech and was told only the stamped steel keys were available. Luckily found a guy who had a direct connection into the parts shelves of the old Borg Warner plant in Indiana, (Tremec, Mexico, had already bought out Borg Warner and moved production to Mexico), and was adapting solid keys from other trans into his T56 rebuilds. He sent me a set for 1/2 and 3/4 along with the necessary springs. Also installed the 3/4 steel fork, new 3/4 synchro assemble, and new a 1/2 fork with a steel insert on the 2nd gear side of the fork, another trick the builder was doing. My T56 has been very good since, only recently have I given thought to taking it apart again and freshening the 3/4 synchros, 3rd gear seems to be the gear that takes the most abuse.

If you don't have a hard copy of the T56 service manual here it is on PDF.
http://www.ttcautomotive.com/anexos/TRSM_T56_0711.pdf
Bob

thanks had the manual otherwise I wouldn't have dove into this. Had to recount gear teeth, I've got a 2.66 so that helps parts searching.

I'm about to jump into a LS/t-56 swap and I'm so glad to see so many have done this already. I have to admit I am alittle worried about being in over my head but I really want a manual transmission in my car.

Is there any tips or tricks that you guys ran into that you didn't expect that you care to share?

Finding the internals needed to be replaced. After some digging there are several suppliers out there, I'm prob around 3k into this trans, it was 1200-1500 for the trans several years ago, then about 425 (including shipping) to get the tail housing modified. Then about another grand in rebuild parts. Not including modding th cross member(easy) installing the pedal assay, not hard but took some time, still have to put it all back together and see how she works. Hard to do when your job has you on the road at random times.

1986 NWC T5
Chevy SBC Gen I w/Holley 670 Street Avenger
'78-'81 Elcamino pedal assembly and z bar assembled w/Speed Direct spherical Rod ends. 1983 Camaro Bellhousing, lightweight flywheel and RAM clutch
Hurst shifter and modified Lokar boot
2" drop spindles with Bilstein B6 all the way around
Nitto 450 255/50/17 front 275/50/17 rear on Hurst Dazzler 17x8 wheels

HurstMonteSS, do you have any photos of your swap? Are you using headers on your SBC, and if so, what brand of headers are you using with the mechanical clutch linkage? How do you like the Speed Direct clutch parts? Thanks in advance.

1993 F-body T-56 with hydraulic activation, Hurst short-throw shifter, 50% ratio in 6th.

When I had a T5 in my old Malibu with mechanical linkage I used the Mr Gasket headers that have now been replaced by Headman Headers 68310

I am in the process of doing the conversion...Auto transmission is OUT. Next steps:
- Add pilot bearing
- Change the flywheel
- Install pressure plate and clutch
- Raise transmission in place and mark holes to cut the tunnel
- etc, etc, etc

Questions:
1) What size bolts do you think I will need to bolt the Tremec T5 NWC to the manual transmission housing (e.g. bell housing)?
- I couldn't find a kit.
- I did order kits for the clutch to flywheel and flywheel to engine
2) What fluid? After alot of research,
- I believe NWC wants 50wt gear lube
3) What is the best way to measure the drive shaft?
- I'm thinking slip ALL THE WAY into the transmission, measure how much has to be cut
- Back out as much as I can, measure again
- Split the difference?

FYI = the bolts needed to bolt the transmission to the bell housing were....12MM. I bought 1.75" long but 1.5" is probably better.

Transmission, driveshaft, cross member, shifter are in!
I'm ready to tackle the pedals and hydraulics.

I had to cut my driver's side header, it's where the slave cylinder wants to be.
Once together I will bring it to a pro in order for the exhaust to be re-worked as needed.

I can't wait to drive this puppy!

Ford T5z, My covid project from last April. Thought I would put it on here because it is from a Mustang.
Unique set up: 85 Camaro flywheel, 87 Corvette pressure plate (10 3/4" bolted to 153 tooth flywheel), 88 Mustang Disc, Conversion front U joint, Bendtsen's transmission adapter, Sick speed Monte clutch pedal kit ( the hype is real and worth every penny!), Howe racing hydraulic throw out bearing, Clutch master cylinder and lines from 97 LT1 Camaro. Modified G force
Lots of work but will never go back to an auto in this car!

Ran a Centerforce DF161911 10 3/4" that was used in the the 84-88 Vette for several years in the Monte, good clutch, easy to drive, my wife could drive it pedal pressure was that good. It was the full 10 3/4" disc OD and being able to bolt it on a 153 that sold me on it.

Thanks for posting. And yes, nothing like a stick in a Monte.
Bob

I got the idea of the 10 3/4" PP from you Bob when I was putting parts together!

Cool.
How do you like the feel of that clutch?

When I went to sticky slicks with the new 427 my thought was the DF wouldn't be up to the task. I installed a 700 lb/ft capable clutch, big mistake for the street. It was like a light switch, ON and OFF, hated it, along with the passenger in the car. Finally bought what I thought the car deserved, a Mcleod RST, love it on the street, but the RST shouldn't, can't, be used with slicks, organic disc.

A friend has a 67 Nova, SBC, Muncie, lots of rear gear, he 's running that same Centerforce 10 3/4" DF , loves it. That 10 3/4 disc on a 153 is the equivalent of an 11" clutch on a 163 wheel.

A note most all the pressure plate parts on the aftermarket are made by one company, Sachs, it's stamped on the cover. Both the Centerforce and my second 10 3/4" sold by Science Friction was also a Sachs. For several years those 10 3/4" pressure plates were unavailable from Sachs. Centerforce verified that to me. Just good to see that pressure plate is back on the market again as it's a very goods choice for a car stuck with a 153 flywheel choice.
Bob

The clutch set I bought is a factory Corvette Sachs clutch set from a local driveline company, blowing them out at 90 bucks Canadian. But, I put a Stage 2 Mustang disc in and its jumpy on engagement. Once you are rolling and shifting gears, the clutch is super smooth. I do like the T5, only got a summers' worth of driving on it, maybe 2000 miles and its been great but I do use some restraint for obvious reasons. Lol.

Just thought I would add on to this thread as I'm installing a new tkx, here is my build thread and the tkx discussion and install start on page 12.

http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1069059&page=12

I'm using most of the components from silver sport transmission for install. Just thought I would post as its another option out there. So far I'm very pleased with the parts and hopefully before long I will be a member of the manual monte cult.