Ron I'm curious why you went with the RXT and not the RST McLeod.

Initially when I did the T56 swap 12 years ago behind the 305 I installed a Centerforce Dual Friction 10 3/4" clutch on a 153 flywheel. When the 427 SBC went in the same clutch was used on a custom 153 McLeod 20 lb wheel. Great feel, very light pedal that even my wife could drive, no slippage at the track on street tires. Years later I lost a few teeth on the flywheel ring gear so the clutch needed to come out. Time to upgrade the clutch as drag radials were going on, need to 60' the car. Not having 800 bucks to throw at an RST at that time I installed a 10 3/4" Science Friction pressure plate with their 700 lb/ft Ceramix disc. From day one have never been happy with how aggressive the disc is, most times almost like an ON/OFF switch. Around town driving can be chore just trying to get smooth engagement, backing upgrade without chatter a major PITA.

Next clutch I'll try is the RST, hopefully this year. For me the RXT discs could make the car behave similar to what I have now
with the Ceramix disc, which I'm not happy with.
Bob

I have a friend that has a shop for ls cars. I originally thought he ordered an RST clutch but he ordered the RXT. He said the RST clutch's are crappy. I guess I'm going to find out how it is soon. Lol!!

Got the modified trans mount in and the shortened driveshaft in last weekend.



Pedal setup ready to go in. Little modding needed since they are original G Body pedals.



Got the clutch master installed. Again had to modify the clutch master to fit correctly.

Got the new/used dual diagraphm power booster installed also. Ran into a little snag. I got a used almost new slave cylinder and didn't realize GM made 2 different types and I have both! Lol. They don't fit together very well. I have a new line coming by this weekend.



New MGW shifter showed up today. Very nice piece!





Getting the pcm flashed for the manual trans this weekend.

Finally have a little more time to work on the T56. I have a SPEC conversion flywheel for my 2 piece rear main 383 with a forged crank. This SPEC part number is SC66S-400 and comes with a spacer style weight. I wanted the bolt in style but cant seem to get answers from SPEC. So I just decided to go ahead and use the spacer style. Now one question, I need a pilot bearing or bushing. From reading, it seems like most prefer the bushing over the bearing because bearing failures tend to ruin the input shaft on the trans. With that said, what bushing should I buy? With the spacer, will I need a longer bushing? I read that the Mcleod # 8617 is slightly longer but I have no idea what I should use. Any ideas?

Sorry, just saw this post.

Can't say which length of bushing to use for your install, but here's how you check that measurement.
Using a straightedge across the front of the bellhousing measure how far the machine surface on the input shaft projects past the bellhousing.
Using a straightedge across the block measure the crank pilot bearing hole. Typically the pilot bushings is flush with the end of the bushing hole in the crank.
You'd like to see most of the input shaft surface into the bushing, but not all of it.
Another method is install a bushing flush in the crank, grease the input shaft, install trans, remove trans, inspect input shaft grease for depth of install. Accurate method but a lot more work.

When I did my T56 install 12 years ago a GM roller bearing pilot was used. When I installed the new engine 6 years ago a new GM roller was used again. No problems with either of the bearings going bad. When I pulled the trans to replace the ring gear on my McLeod flywheel the wear pattern on the input shaft told me I needed a longer pilot bushing. Installed this bushing,

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chevy-Extra-Long-Pilot-Bushing,6974.html

I'm running an aftermarket T56, Lakewood scattershield with block saver plate, Dart block, so I have a few variables that effect the depth of the input shaft. The longer bronze bushing has been in for about 3 years now, no indiction of failure. Hoping to install a McLeod twin in the car this coming Winter, bushing inspection/input shaft contact will tell the story

Bellhousing indexing effects the location of the input shaft, and will put side loads on the shaft if not centered in the crank, bushing failure can occur.
Indexing an old school bell like the Lakewood or the old stick bells can be done. Indexing an LS1 or LT1 trans I haven't done, probably no one does it, just stick the trans in hoping that the alignment dowels in the block are correct and the alignment holes in the trans are correct.

Hope this helps.
Bob

Ok, thanks for that info! I went with the standard length bronze bushing. The part number is PB656HD. I just picked it up today. I will measure and make sure I have proper engagement prior to the install. Hoping to have some time here this weekend.

When you do a T56 install the trans is in and out several times for tunnel and crossmember mods. You don't install the flywheel or clutch when you are doing the test fitting. So grease the input shaft nose, install the trans, remove it, inspect the input/pilot bushing depth.
Bob

Yeah I didn't have the clutch in until the final installing so I could get everything ready to go. It's actually all in now. I will need to finish up my rear end because I bought an 8.5 and had 4.11 gears installed. I'm looking for 98+ rear Fbody brakes for it. Once I get that tackled, I'm going to be measuring for the driveshaft and wiring up the reverse lock out and figuring out the speedo. It's been a little more difficult than I anticipated but not too bad. I do still need to bleed the master too.

On the pilot bearing, it only turns when you shift or at a stop with the clutch in, I have always preferred a 'real' sealed ball bearing, I had a sleeve-style bushing in a 1965 GTO that wore terribly, went to a ball bearing and never went back to the cheap oil impregnated metal bushing.
Let me explain, as a toolmaker I have worked around this material (OIL IMPREGNATED SINTERED BRONZE) and if it get hot the oil is forced out of the pores, then it's only a matter of time till it's metal on metal wear! Trust me on this, you may get lucky but going with a sealed ball bearing is the only proper way to go.

Phil,do you mean one of these;
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/nal-14061685/overview/
Guy

I'm a little confused on the starters. I had a 168 tooth flywheel with my 200r4. Now I have the smaller 153 Conversion SPEC flywheel. The starter is a diaganol bolt which generally means that it's for a 168 tooth flywheel. The one I have looks to be an LT1 style starter though. It's not the big huge old school starters. If this fits the T56 bellhousing, do I use it?

Well, the old starter will not work. What starter do I buy so it'll fit the t56 and a diaganol bolt pattern?

Is anyone using a SPEC flywheel for a two piece rear externally balanced 383-400 motor? The part number I have is sc66s-400 which comes with a spacer counterbalancer that goes between the flywheel and the crank. Well, my clutch fork is hitting the pressure plate before it even engages the clutch. I cant figure it out. Called SPEC, the guy said they've sold thousands and never had that problem. Any ideas?

How do I post a pic? I got the car running and driving today!

congrats!! At least the weekend looks nice so you can get her out for a cruise

Usually you'll host the pic on a site like photobucket, then when you make your post (on the full reply screen) next to the smilies icon there is one that says: "create link to a webpage" you'll click that and the first box is the link to your pic, and the second box is only the title or how it shows on your post.

Thanks! I took it around the block a few times and finally last night was able to drive it on the road and get up to speed. Seems to run pretty well. I still have work to do though. I need to get the reverse lights, reverse lock out,and cut the brake pedal down. But for now, it's a big accomplishment! I do notice a slight rattle. Not sure what it is, could be something simple but it sounds like it may be internal in the trans, although from the short amount of driving I did it seems to shift and run fine. I also need to clearance my hole in the floor a little more because as the drivetrain moves around, the shifter base wants to rub against the floor board a little. It was totally clear of it the first time I had everything installed but the second time, it's a little more towards the passenger side. BUT, all and all I'm happy so far! I did rip a 1-2-3 burnout! The 4.10's want to move the tires!

You'll get the bugs out, sounds like fun so far though! Have you used schnieder's west for a trans before?? I think I'll have them go through mine so its good to go when I get around to throwin the body on.

No I have a guy in Moline that I like to use for rear ends and manual trans gear boxes. He works at the best shop here in the Quad Cities and does things on the side. If I have a 200r4 built, it goes to Lonnie Diers (Exreme Automatics).

After 13 years I will be resigning my membership in the Manual Monte Cult. The car has become too fast for the stick, as I plan on being in the 140-150mph range at the track this year. The Tremec is coming out and a 4L80 is going in. I have loved every second of having a stick in my car since 2001, but now I want to go fast! There WILL be another manual Monte in my future, I don't think I could not own one for too long. My whole setup from the pedal to the crossmember is listed for sale in the classified section if you guys know anyone looking to do the swap.

It's done T-5 totally rebuilt and installed using gen3 peddles gen4 hydro master/line/slave, with custom made adjustable rod ,4" aluminum drive shaft , Hurst shifter ,custom stainless steal top plate for the center console that dose not use a shifter boot but a plate system like a lamborghini shifter but with a leather backer so you can;t look throw the windows .

took the Monte for a nice ride today , boy the stick really changes the way I drive the thing , now its either all out stupid sideways or supper MaMay Grampa with the tractor. That .63 OD and 3.42 gears make for a fast little ride if you can run it .

Anyone got a line on internal replacement parts for a a T56? Due to a comedy of errors (yeah that sounds good) I managed to bend the 5-6 shift rail, chip the reverse gear and break some pin on the inside while reinstalling the tail housing. Still tearing the trans apart to find that piece. I haven't had any luck searching parts and I'm trying to avoid the dealership.

I bought my T56 from Liberty and have bought parts from them.
http://www.libertysgears.com/

Also Rockland Standard gear is a good source.
http://www.rsgear.com/

Some have bought parts from TICK.
http://www.tickperformance.com/1993-2002-camaro-trans-am-1/

Many other sources without going to the dealership.

While you had the trans apart did you; install the steel 3-4 fork, upgrade to solid keys in the 1-2 and 3-4 synchros, install the brass shift fork pads, install the bronze isolator cup,inspect the 3/4 synchronizer for wear and possible replacemant, just a short list of parts to think about.
Bob

Thanks, looking over this thing it's kinda worn. The teeth for the synchro on 3rd n 4th gears are pretty worn, the idler shaft 3rd gear ring has a chip in the middle of one tooth, but no indications of damage to 3rd gear on the output shaft. Some of the shifter pads were falling apart so I am going to replace them with the bronze ones. With the damage and wear I'm looking at about a grand in parts!!! Yowza! I found Hawks third gen parts. I tried to call tick performance but the guy wasn't too knowledgable said call back later or check the website. I didn't find internal parts there.

How do you determine first gear ratio? I counted 17 teeth on the idler gear, 39 on the output gear which comes to about 2.29, not the 2.66, 2.9x or 3.xx.