Are you guys bolting the flywheel and clutch up to the motor before installing the actual trans like the picture above? Is that easier than sliding the clutch onto the input shaft then bolting it up to the flywheel once the trans is in?

Also, any good way to cut the hole for the shifter before installing the trans? Any measurements? Or how did you get a good starting point to go ahead and cut? Any pics of the cuts and boot install?

You have to bolt the flywheel and pressure plate together on the engine to get the clutch disc properly aligned. There is no other way to do that.



I didn't want to pre-cut my floor so I installed my transmission to my engine and then jacked the transmission up against the floor and drilled 4 holes at the 4 corners of the shifter hole. Lowered the transmission and then with a airsaw cut the floor open.

OK, I'm new to the 6 speed world so forgive me for dumb questions. Is lining up the clutch pretty straight forward? I also need to find out if my stock LT1 flywheel is going to work with my block. I'm not sure whether the block is a two piece or one piece rear main. The casting is 14016379. Can I find this info out based on the casting number?

The block has an Eagle crank with a PB1050-N balancer which states it an external balance but the paperwork for my motor says "fully balanced assembly" so I'm not sure whether it's internally balanced and the balancer is neutral balanced or whether it's externally balanced. The builder sent the block with out the balancer so I'm thinking it's internally balanced. I sent an inquirey to builder but it was built back in 05 so I'm not real sure how lucky I'll be on getting correct info.

The casting #, 14016379, is for a 77-79 350 so its a 2 piece rear main seal and the LT1 flywheel will not work. There is a company that sells a retrofit for the older blocks. Lining up a clutch is straight forward, most kits come with the alignment tool necessary to do it.

Ok, can the stock flywheel be machined to work? Where is the best place to get the correct flywheel?

Only 3 companies make a conversion flywheel and are all priced similar. McLeod, Centerforce and RAM. They are all priced similar but here is the Centerforce one. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctf-700107

No it cant be machined bc the bolt holes are off and the center hole is different. I mean yea you can machine it but I have no idea how much it would cost vs the new flywheel.

Flywheels and flexplates for one-piece seal motors are counterweighted to compensate for the changes made at the end of the crank. This is also why the bolt circle was changed, to prevent bolting an older flywheel to a newer motor.
Short version: you'll have a serious balance problem if you redrill your flywheel and bolt it on.

OK, I appreciate the help you guys have given me! One thing I'm trying to figure out, I have an externally balanced motor. I think I need to go with a 153 tooth flywheel to fit inside the stock LT1 bellhousing? Also, I see there are many different size flywheels out there. I have a duralast stock replacement LT1 clutch that I'm going to use. Is this an 11"? I see a lot of 10.5, 10.95 flywheels out there. Speedway motors sell a flywheel for a 2 piece rear main for $150 but says it accepts a 10.5" clutch. What size clutch is stock?

Well since you are straying from stock for you car, you ned to use the clutch that is sized to your flywheel. It has to do with the bolt pattern of the clutch.

Bought the SPEC flywheel for my 383, which is externally balanced. They sent a spacer weight with it. I'm not sure if the flywheel is weighted for the 383 and this extra weight needs to be used. Even if it is, I'm going to get ahold of them and get the bolt in weight. I think the spacer will limit travel on the fork. From what I've read, most people receive the bolt in. Not sure why they didn't send that instead. I sent them an email. They have been very helpful so far.

I bolted the trans in to mock it up and cut the hole for the shifter and clearance whatever the electrical connector on the top is. Are you guys leaving the factory bumper on the top of the trans?

the electrical connector if originally it was an auto, is for back up lites

I took the bumper off the top of my T56, needed the room to get the tail shaft as high as I could for the proper U joint angles.

Looking at mine, I think I'm going to remove the bumper too. I don't think its hitting as it looks to be my reverse lock out switch. I hammered the floor board to clearence that. Hope its clear cause the next install will be the final, I hope!

Had mine in 5 or 6 times before the final time...just be sure to get it as high as you can. What are you using for a crossmember?

Jeremy, I feel I dropped the ball on you when you were looking for a flywheel clutch combo, sorry about that. Being not familiar with the LT1 set up I did some research but my life got in the way. Again sorry.

As Lance said get the trans as high as possible in the rear. The higher the better, your driveline angles will be the better for it. That bumper is not necessary. Also to make install easier the ear on the left side of the trans can be cut off, it's a factory assemble attaching point. When installing the trans the ear hits the firewall/floorpan seam.

The condition of the body bushings will play a role in trans height, worn, crushed bushing reduce the clearance available in the tunnel. In turn requiring more massaging of the tunnel to get the trans high enough.

Lance only had his trans up a half dozen times for fitting, I probably 10 times before I was happy with the tunnel massaging.

Use an Energy Susp poly rear trans mount, our cars like poly there. Be sure to factor in the installed height of that mount when fitting the tunnel.

When you get the trans up in the tunnel the two top tailhousing bolts should be touching the tunnel, you will need to dimple for them also. When the engine torques over the left tailhousing top bolt moves closer to the tunnel, clearance for that.

Check clearance between tunnel and trans vent line, usually not a problem.

Also make sure trans tailhousing is located left to right properly, it's not centered between the frame rails, offsets to right side.
Bob

Hey Bob, no big deal sir! I now how life happens, I have a 6 year old and a 6 month old and am gone for work 12 hours a day M-F. Life happens! I do appreciate all the help you have given me!

I wish I could identify the ear that your talking about that can be cut off. Ill have to dig for some pics of that. I think I do remember there being something that wanted to catch the firewall.

Do you know if the 200r4 trans mount is the same as the t56? I'll have to look into that too. I have a few Energy trans mounts for the 200. If I remember right, they seemed to be about the same?

I'm sure I'll be pulling this baby out again. I did clearance the reverse lock out but haven't fitted it back in since to be sure everything clears. I suppose I should.


I'm using the ICEMAN crossmember BTW...

I used the 200R4 trans mount on my T56...but I modified my crossmember to raise the tailshaft as high as I could get it.

I'll send you a pic of the ear on the trans I referred to.

A decade ago when most G's had an auto trans, stock driveshaft/drivetrain, a common problem was driveline vibration, usually at lower highway speeds. One of the common fixes was a poly trans mount, this worked for many of us, me included.

So I've always been in favor of a poly mount at the tailhousing, especially as hp output goes up. Today most all aftermarket rubber mounts are made in India, Anchor in particular, and I find they are very soft, and very inexpensive.

As far as the rear mount choice goes, whether rubber or poly, my experience is that the installed height of the poly is significantly taller, and will influence the installed height of the trans, as in tunnel clearance. So choose a mount and stay with it through tunnel clearancing. The trick is still the same, get the T56 as near to the original auto output shaft height as possible, with no tunnel interferrance.

Energy Susp 3-1186G is the "standard" replacement poly mount for our cars. That mount is a two piece, as all Energy mounts are, about a .187" thick plate is used between the mount and trans. After the initial install of my trans I replaced that .187" plate with a .100" plate, adding clearance in the tunnel. Just another means of getting where you need to be.

Oh, T56 and the autos use the same trans mount.
Bob

Jeremy, FYI, leaving early Weds AM for 7 rounds of golf in 5 days in Myrtle Beach. Please don't pity me. Won't be online, don't think I ignored you again.
Bob
Sent you a pic

OK, thanks for that info. My wife is in Germany for a few weeks for work so I'm here on dad duty with the kids. I'm hoping grandparents may take over tomorrow night so I can get out to the garage and play. Bob, I did get those pics. I'm going to compare them to my trans and see if that's still on it. Thanks for the help guys! ----Jeremy

You guys ever deal with these spacer weights they send with these adapter flywheels? There is a provision on the flywheel for a bolt on weight but they sent a weight that is a spacer between the crank and the flywheel. Not sure if that's going to limit travel on the clutch or not? The guy from SPEC says it doesn't and they sell a whole bunch of them that way. I would think a bolt on weight would be a much better idea. wouldn't you?

Finally started my swap. Got the pos 4l60e out.



Installed the McCleod rxt twin disc clutch.



Got the T 56 ready to go in.



Finally got the trans installed after in/out 4 times. Had to keep modding the floor because of the shifter and the reverse lockout kept hitting the floorboard.



Crossmember/trans mount done. Installed shifter,factory Hurst for now.







Next weekend is installing the pedal and hydraulics.

11-second car with a manual! Now there's a good time.