Thanks for the input Lance! I'll look into that, if it does work I would probably be able to use all the original ls e- brake cable mounts as the ls brakes were originally front mounted and the cables pull from the rear. In hindsight I should have played more with caliper orientation before welding on ends but I went with it knowing there was an issue an would no matter what work my way out of it. If it doesn't work I have no problem notching the frame for caliper clearance, I'll keep everyone up to date.

I've been working a lot of hours so not much to update. I did come across a solution for the ebrake cable mount at the caliper while searching for ideas. The mount is made for 10/12 bolt rear ls brake swaps. Since I'm using the 10/12 bolt flange pattern I can make these work. I will have to clearance a little from the bracket because of the Ford big bearing and due to clearancing I am going to add a small brace on the bracket but I definitely think this is a great bolt on solution for anyone with a 10/12 bolt wanting to run rear ls brakes . While searching I found that the guy selling them on ebay is/was a member on here http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showprofile&User=3512 Sorry for the blurry 2nd picture and the 3rd picture is from his ebay add ebay bracket link

Still working on details but I'm slowly chipping away. I have another non car shop toy on the way so I've been clearing room for it, been trying to get going on some details for a detached garage, and dealing with all the interesting people on Facebook selling my camper which is gone now. So this is as far as I've got.

I didn't want to spend the money and mess with a 3/16" tubing bender and flaring tool so I ordered the Monte carlo ss brake lines from inline tube $34 from ebay brake lines The 8.8 and 7.5 10 bolt were close enough in shape that I knew I could make it look decent and functional. I did have to cut, weld, and tap a tab for the rubber brake hose $16 brake hose to solid line mount.

I welded 2 a-body brake line axle tabs $20 to the axle tubes axle tabs and fabbed up some tabs to go from solid line to the stoptech 98-02 caliper line. A local place in town will do the Flare for me. Here's a few pictures.







I was also able to get the e brake cable mount sorted out. I was just using the crusty ls brake cables to test it out and plan to use all new Monte Carlo ss e brake lines and cables as I have a plan on how to make them work like factory.







It's probably not the best solution to the problems but so far I'm mostly happy with it. Still not happy with the welds but it is what it is.

Well ran into a little trouble today on the brake line. I ordered 3/16 stainless monte carlo lines, my plan was to cut the double inverted flare off, put the m10x1.0 98-02 ls1 camaro bubble flare end on. I went to 3 different places in town and they all tried the bubble flare on the stainless and it went bad every time. I just spent $30 more to order regular brake lines for the Monte so the $33 ss lines are a waste. SS brake lines sounded nice but more trouble than there worth. Lesson learned!

Edit to the above. While going to pick my new garage toy up I found a place near by and the guy was able to bubble flare my lines, best part he didn't charge me anything. Now all the brake line stuff is out of the way. I panicked to soon but luckily both places I ordered from were able to cancel my order.

My new non automotive garage toy.

Off topic but I have been wanting to delve into machining and eventually once I build my skills do some small steam engine stuff. My new Precision Mathews 1022v lathe isn't the biggest 10" dia x 22" long is all it will turn. I didn't buy it for the automotive hobby but it will help. I've had about 10 different things made here lately by friends helping me out and this could have done everyone of them. Now back to the regular schedule rearend program.

I think it was just last week we talked about that lathe. It took longer for me to get two bearings from Idaho via UPS than have that lathe shipped from Pittsburgh.
Might say something about Matthew's as a business. I think you will be more than happy with the size.

Stainless brake lines. I think in most cases it's the way to go but sure can be a PITA to need to bend, flare and make leak proof. When a line lock was added to the 86 it was laid on top the proportioning valve. Classic Tube stainless lines had previously been installed everywhere. The mating of the line lock to the prop valve required six stainless, intrigue double flares. I learned a lot about stainless 3/16" tubing.

Available today is the copper/nickle line, have used it many times, makes braking lines much easier to do. I would just use stone guard on it where exposed. Just like the factory lines. By the way you can give credit to Volvo for the copper/nickle. They got tired of the steel lines rotting in short order in Scandinavia. Now most European cars are using it. And it can be polished pretty. I saw it being used on a Schwartz chassis
Did a brake line replacement on an older Dodge truck, bubbles original. Bought adapters that allowed bubble to mate to double, and used copper/nickle.

First time i saw copper/nickle was when I used it for 1/2" fuel lines in the 86, instead of alum or steel or stainless tubing. Only FedHill was importing copper/nickle from Europe at one time, calling it Cunifer. Now every parts house has China copper/nickel brake line to sell. It's about all the garages use anymore. Easy to do any flare, even bubble. You just need to buy a very expensive tool to do the bubbles well.
https://store.fedhillusa.com/

E-brake. I think you packaged a setup that finally passed my approval, good job. Being stick cars we know how important the e-brake is.
Bob