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hi, i am new here, from Ontario Canada, found this site and would like recomendations and help along the way,
I am taking out the original 305 HO and putting in a fresh 400 block ...
i have tried starting other posts in this group but they didnt work out well, so admin can delete those if they wish. so here is my starting pics and I will up date story as time allows.
nice to meet you all. Cheers. Troy

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Looks like a good car too put a 406ci in.

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I think so too, apparently the 400 is a torque monster, which is what I want, not going for top speed, I like to have acceleration right away when I need it.
here is the 305HO that needs to go, so I am slowly taking it out, next is the 400 block that i have had cleaned, honed , bored .030 over, new main bearings cam bearings, frost plugs
original rods have ARP studs now, crank was polished and checked, KYB pistons with a 12cc dish, i think that is where I am at so far... time and $$$$,,
all suggestions welcom for future parts and ideas,, thanks in advance.
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Welcome! You have a good foundation in the 406 to build on. I’m going to assume your pistons are Keith Black and probably hypereutectic (not sure there is a KYB piston)??? Are those stock or ARP main bolts?

That aside, if you don’t have heads for it already, that’s where you need to concentrate the most you can of your engine building budget. The heads more or less determines the maximum power potential of the engine.

It appears you had the block’s deck surfaced - did you possibly “deck” it to zero - I can’t tell my the picture. That’ll determine the best combustion chamber volume and gasket thickness for you.


Original owner - 1985 SS black hardtop w/gray interior. Frame-on restoration in progress. 406 sleeper w/modified FIRST TPI, 1.875" headers and dual 3.5" Borla exhaust. TH400, Ford 9", anti-roll bar, and notched frame. Dropped 2", 18" wheels, and F/R disk brakes. 10-point cage w/swing-out bars, custom gauges, and custom, audiophile stereo system.
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yes, your right, KB hyper,, not sure why i put the y,...hmm i know they put in ARP for the rods, I will check if the did on the mains when i get home tonight.
these are the heads I ordered...
Trick Flow® Super 23® 195 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Chevrolet TFS-30410012-M72
yes it was zero decked,, getting a 0.040 gasket should get me a 9.98:1 CR..
would love to hear what cams are suggested, i have a couple in mind...
Howards Cams Street Force 2 Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts 112571-12S
Howards Cams Street Force 2 Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts 112571-12...

thanks for joining in..

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I'm going to give an opinion but I'm not the most experienced person as my knowledge comes from a little hands on, tons of reading, and lots of help understanding things from a couple of guys here.

If I were in your shoes the heads are not the ones I would go with. For the money the flow numbers are not real great. I have dealt with Trick Flow in the past (you can read all about it in my build thread) and as a company in the end they took care of me, I was only out time and frustration on the heads so I need too give them credit for that. Any head you get needs to be gone over with a fine tooth comb. Out of curiosity what was the reason you decided to go with the tfs heads as that might help me give a better option?

As far as both of those cams go I don't think you would be getting your monies worth out of your heads with the lift on either cam. Duration is a little questionable in my opinion also as i would go a little higher. Lobe separation at 112 is in the ballpark and would give good vacuum. Kevin (BadSS) has always dialed my cams in for me and will not steer you wrong on a recommendation. I called Howard's awhile back out of curiosity just to see what numbers they would throw out and I didn't feel they were even in the ballpark and then I looked on their site and it was all they had in stock so to me they did not have my best interest at heart and just wanted to sale something. Second option behind Kevin i would trust on a recommendation is Jones Cam design, not cheap.

If you don't have arp main bolts I would recommend them, arp studs would be better but I would want to have it checked and if needed align honed with the studs installed but that's just me, others have just swapped bolts for studs and have been fine but I would want to check my clearances. I feel you would be fine with arp main bolts on a street engine.

As far as flat tappet cams with the on going core shortage and and poor machining on the lifters and cams I think a little extra effort on checking lobe taper with a .0001 micrometer and a straightedge across lifter faces is worth the time and effort, here a couple recent videos with that discussion and how to check.



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Originally Posted by Antrmo
I ordered... Trick Flow® Super 23® 195 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Chevrolet TFS-30410012-M72
yes it was zero decked,, getting a 0.040 gasket should get me a 9.98:1 CR..
would love to hear what cams are suggested, i have a couple in mind...
Howards Cams Street Force 2 Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts 112571-12S
Howards Cams Street Force 2 Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts 112571-12...

thanks for joining in..

I don't know what kind of a deal if any you got on those TFS heads, but looking at Summit those are going for right at $1,700 a pair. I know Summit has the price of the 195 Eliminators at $2,067. However, if you go directly to AFR's website and select 65cc (10.4:1 with .051 head gasket) or 75cc (9.66:1 with .041 head gasket) and angled plugs, they're selling the Eliminators with free shipping for $1,950. If you don't mind running premium gas, I'd suggest going with the 65cc heads. Those do have hydraulic roller springs with a 140# seat rating, which is a little high for a hydraulic flat-tappet. But if you call AFR, they may be willing to sell a set of heads with hydraulic flat-tappet springs for the same amount, or possibly less. You could get even get the heads with the hydraulic roller springs and put on a set of +.050 locks to put the seat pressure at 121# - that way if you wanted to bump up to a hydraulic roller cam later on, all you would need to do is put back on the standard locks.

If there's even a remote possibility you could come up with $250 more for the AFR heads, that would be the best $250 you could spend on the engine.

Actually the $1200 as cast 195 AFR Enforcers with 64cc chambers (10.77:1 with a .051 gasket) flow close enough to the TFS heads, that there probably wouldn't be 10HP difference between them and the TFS heads. This option would require running premium gas though. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't spend $500 for 10HP. You could use the extra $500 to spend on "better" headers and exhaust system and pick that up over a "typical" exhaust.

Also, the cam you listed doesn't have enough lift to get the most out of any aftermarket head you go with.

What transmission and torque converter are you planning on running? That'll determine how big a cam you can go with.

Anyway, something for you to think about and us all to "talk" about.

EDIT - I didn't see that Brent had posted before hitting "Post Reply". He's 100% on point. If those aren't ARP main bolts or comparable after market, it would be good $40 insurance to replace those with APR main bolts while it's open. I have in the past put studs in place of bolts after the block was machined with bolts, but I don't recommend doing it. If you hadn't already had the block machined, it would have been worth it to spend a few more dollars for stud though - in case you wanted to bump up the power later on.

Brent, thanks for the complement and mentioning my name in the same sentence with Jones. I definitely consider him the best in the cam business, but I can say I've recommended cams before in some forums and the poster has come back with what Jones recommended and they've been close, very close.

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good day and thank you both for piping in with all that excellent information.,, I am a mechanic and have no problem admitting I am green when it comes to building a street engine. So I appreciate all the help I can get... now to your questions.
I already purchased those tfs heads,, so I guess I am going to use them, They seem like a REPUTAL NAME AND i WAS HAPPY TO SEE THEY HAD THE STEAM HOLES DRILLED AND i THOUGHT THE ,,,,,,,,,,OH CRAP HIT CAP LOCK SORRY.
and thought the 72 cc and 195 runners matched my goals of low end torque with not to high of CR. I will run premium gas always.
the block was aligned and honed, if they are not ARP bolts, then all I have to do is replace the bolts in there with ARP bolts and torque to proper specs yes? I had a machine shop put together the bottom end for me, would they have used the old bolts or a new replacement? I will find out Monday., I do know the rod bolts are ARP.

I watch alot of uncle Tony, he seems like he knows his stuff and I will watch these 2 as well, TY and cheers 88SSbrent.

I didnt get any deal on the heads, and ya they cost alot!! wish I started this thread earlier, but It is what it is now, so I really appreciate all the help going forward.
I will look for another Cam with more lift. all suggestions welcome, please keep in mind this will be a summer day daily driver.
right now it will be the stock TH350, 99% sure thats what is in there. I am thinking I need a stall torque converter? as I have read on the cam description's they require it.
Again thx for all the help, and will keep you upto date as time allows.

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last nights tear down session of the 305HO...

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While ripping down the old slug be aware not to just destroy stuff for the sake of getting it done. Because you are staying old school most everything there is of use later, or can be modified, or sold, or given away. We used to say parts is parts, more true today than ever.
Entire front accessory stuff can be used over, the entire engine harness, the CCC harness should be removed but saved, don't cut it up to remove it.
What you will find in the swap will be lots of little problems with simple solutions that cost dollars.

There is help here with lots of the stupid stuff like, like, headers and exhaust, fuel, 50 other areas that doubling the hp need to address eventually.
Bob

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definitely tearing down with care,,, bagging and tagging as I go.I probobly will be reusing some things until I can save for newer parts to replace them. great advice , ty. cheers,

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The stock transmission is the TH350c - I know you said it has "the stock TH350", just wanted to be sure it was still the TH350c (lockup) in it and someone hadn't replaced it with a TH350 (non-lockup). There are a number of decently priced converters out there for the older TH350, but none under $600 that are any better than the stock SS converter in the TH350c. Well, there are, but they're all trash.

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Also need to check on your balance for your balancer and flex plate. If I remember correctly 400's were external/external and I know the later 1 piece rms 305 was internal/external. Not sure what the earlier 2 piece 305 is but someone on here should know.

What carb and intake do you plan too run? It looks like you still have the ccc system. Do you plan too run it and the stock intake? That might change cam specs also.

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I have a external balanced Harmonic dampener on my wish list in summit. part # Summit Racing™ OE-Style Harmonic Dampers SUM-161400.
thinking this 1 should work, i did read its good for up to 5500 RPM, I believe, I am not building for a high rev motor, so this 1 should do? suggestions welcome..not sure if my flywheel (flexplate) is in ok condition to reuse? will have to inspect it.
is there a way to tell the TH350c from the TH350 now that I am not driving it? I will do some reasearch into that. If it was still on the road I could have tested it.
I wont be running the ccc ( which is the computer controller yes?) which is also why I cannot use the Qjet that is in it..
I have a edelbrock torker,, thou after reading about it,its not the best choice for my build., so not sure what im doing in that department yet, if I dont find another I can use it and see how it feels, If I dont like it then its just a matter of getting another one and swapping.
So carb wise I will need some help plz for cfm size. 650?750?,, open to suggestions
just a reminder, not building a race car, gonna be a summer daily driver with some good grunt and tire smoker. just want the pushed back in your seat feeling to bring that ear to ear smile.
cheers.

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That Summit balancer looks like it would be OK.

You will need a staggered starter and a 168 tooth externally balanced flex plate for the 406.

Figure out the headers you’re going to use first – some require a mini-starter. If you can use a standard sized starter, I’d suggest you go to your local parts store and get one for a 1998 Chevy C1500 with a 350. It’ll be a staggered starter for the larger 168 tooth flexplate, but not as big and heavy as the older stock starters. That way you can get a some kind of warranty and would be easy to replace if it goes bad. That or get one off RockAuto if you want to risk it’ll be OK.

Since you’re not planning to rev it over 5500 or so, the standard externally balanced Pioneer flexplate at $34 should be OK.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-fra104/make/chevrolet

There will be a plug with three wires going to it on the driver’s side above the transmission pan if it’s a 350c (for the lockup).
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If there’s nothing wrong with the computer controlled quad (or even if it needs to be rebuilt), you would be able to save a lot of money sticking with it. I can tell you from experience, a Holley 3310, vacuum secondary 750 won’t be any faster or “better” than the factory quad on the type engine you’re building. More than me have used them on cars running in the 12s with minor tweaks. Plus, if the heads use a 1205 intake gasket, you could use the stock dual plane intake and all your intake brackets would line back up with everything. If the intake opening on the heads are sized for a 1206 gasket, the stock intake won't work.

If you have the newer Torker II, the stock dual plane would perform better, if it will cover the head's intake ports. The original Torker intake isn’t all that bad, but it’s also a single plane intake, and you would still be better off sticking with the stock dual plane. If they're "1206" heads, I'm not sure a 2101 Performer will cover a 1206 port either. I know the RPM will.

Cam selection would be determined by the stall speed on the converter and whether or not you would consider sticking with the stock quad or not.

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I have seen Summit branded parts that were really name brand stuff. A few years ago I bought an adjustable brake proportioning valve, said it was Summit brand. When i got it i noticed the "Summit" sticker on it was starting to come off, so i pulled it off & it said "Wilwood" under it.

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Oh yeah, a lot of times the Summit stuff is top-tier rebranded stuff. They own Trick Flow and at least one of their fuel regulators are made by Aeromotive at a 28% discount.

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im glad to see the dampener will work, and I have added the flex plate to my wish list.
I do have a starter at home, I forgot about it, I will get the part # tonight when I get home to see if it will be the one you suggested.
I will look for the 3 wires in the trans tonight as well.
So I thought bc I was changing so much I wouldn't be able to use the computer controlled quad Jet, but know that you bring it up,,, I guess I can?
I was thinking I would take out all the computer controlled stuff and be total old school, not sure if you aware( you probably are) but the States were using these feedback carburetors before Canada adopted them.
so my monte has the feedback carb, I was planning on replacing it, but maybe I can keep it? which also means the distributor can stay too bc its electronically advanced. suggestions please...
removing the computer also would mean needing a lock up kit for the torque converter for same reasons...
I will look to see what gasket the trick flows take,,
so using the stock intake off the 400 may be a better choice,,ok, as long as the trick flows are 1206 ports.
I wasnt going to go for a stall torque converter, but someone I am buying parts from said " I wouldnt regret it" if I did. saying it will make the car perform better? I understand what they do,, hold off power until a certain rpm is reached.
then you get that bag off the line type launch, plus some of the cams I look at say they call for one, around 1200-1500 stall.

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A few things to clarify.

If you keep all your computer wiring, you could run the 305 computer carb and distributor on the engine. If it was running OK before you tore into the 305, there are some minor tricks that you'll need to do once you get ready to install the carb. Cutting out the plugs from the base to get to the idle fuel mixture adjustments, filing the secondary tang, a new secondary hanger, and possibly secondary rods. If you need a kit for it, while it's apart, some rich and lean stop adjustments. Nothing major and relatively easy to do.

I checked the documentation on your heads, and they're opened to a 1206, so I'm pretty sure the stock intake won't cover them, but I can't recall ever checking one to see, so it's possible. If the stock 305 intake doesn't have enough material to properly seal on a 1206 head, then you'll have to go with an aftermarket intake. At that point, there aren't a lot of quadrajet intakes that will cover a 1206. Unless the casting has changed, I don't think the regular 2101 Performer ($250) will work, but I'm near certain the 7104 RPM Quadrajet will. However, that thing is $330. You sure you couldn't swap out those heads for something with a 1205 intake opening? If so, you could run the stock 305 intake. However, the 7104 would add some power for you.

Good grief carb prices are out of sight now. A 3310, 750 vacuum carb is $453. Think I would stick with the stock carb and the 7104 if you can't swap out the heads.

If you have the 350c with the lockup converter AND it's the original converter flashing upwards of 2,000 rpm and wasn't swapped out during a transmission rebuild to a 1400rpm converter (which is VERY common), I'd stick with the stock converter and cam accordingly. IF it still has the original converter, at 2000 rpm, it stalls about 600 rpm over a "typical" stock converter. The reason I say I'd stick with the 2000 stock converter is, Hughes and TCI are the only decent manufactures that make a 350c converter, and they're pricey. Hughes' GM25L goes for $641 and it MIGHT stall 2200 rpm behind your engine - not worth it to me IF, repeat IF your transmission still has the stock SS "2000 rpm" converter.

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Couple thing to add:

Nothing wrong with an older TH350 or 350C when properly built to hold more power. Of course the down side is no OD. The 84 ring and pinion was 3.31 if i remember correctly, not the 3.73 used in the 85-88 with the 200R trans with OD. Just something to think about down the road when that cruise up the highway at 70 mph happens, it why everything has OD today, highway cruise rpm.

Didn't know that getting a converter for a 350 was that much of a problem. Greg with his built 327 in the 69 Camaro pulled the TH400 and installed a built TH350 to go faster in the 1/4, picked up about 2 tenths. A 400 requires more hp to spin it than a 350. He has a 3900 converter, can't remember who is the manufacture.
In Tom's 67 Camaro we pulled the Bowtie Overdrive's about 2100 converter and installed a Precision Ind Vigilante 2900. With the 4.10 rear gears, that new converter the car drives, leaves much better without compromise in street manors. The engine is a 350 blueprinted ZZ4 shortblock, 180 AFRs and a stout Howard roller, a fun car to drive because it weighs 3200lb. That engine had a Edel Airgap with a crappy Edel Performer carb. Changed the intake to a Edel 7104 speadbore and a built 800 cfm Qjet.
So just keep in mind the end result wanted of the parts you put together. Every driveline part, engine, trans, rear need to be considered in the final package.

On the 84 SS is the CCC system. We can make it all play together for the final product, just need to know that will be the end result, CCC. Or as Brent has done it started with the CCC on his built 305 and got it right. And now has moved forward to old school on his 305, and is now building a 383 to use his old school Qjet knowledge on the new build. If i was doing TH 350 and cubic inch a Qjet would give excellent performance, and as a street cruiser the best miles per gallon. But I'm a firm believer in the Qjet was the best carb for a street car ever built.

But as Kevin said finding an intake to accept a spreadbore carb, Qjet, with big ports to use a 1206 port is hard to do. I run AFR 210 heads on my 427 SBC and run a long time extinct Weiand 7525 single plane, an 800 CFM Qjet. That intake has provisions for EGR which i need to "show" for a "visual emissions inspection" 15 years ago. And when looking at manifold choices you need to pay attentions to the height of the manifold.
The AFR 210 intake ports are untouched from AFR and a 1205 FelPro need to be trimmed at the top of the port to match the heads. Then the intake is port matched to that modified 1205.The end result of that was the alum on the top of the ports got thinner and eventually would push the corners of the 1205 outward. All four areas above the runners had more alum added, about 3/16", to increase the contact area. Couple years later ended up have the intake head surfaces milled to better match the AFR head intake angle.
One thing you need to keep in mind is all the aftermarket parts we buy today are just that. To mate my Weiand intake to an AFR head, on an aftermarket block took some time to make it right.

One more thing. The fuel tank is a non vented, has an EVAP system as part of the CCC system to vent the tank. Pay attention to the way the 84 SS EVAP is plumbed and save all the parts. There is no vented gas gap made for our 1980s tanks so you need to be aware of the possible ways to get around venting the fuel tank. Maintaining the OEM EVAP system is the best way around the problem. The 1986 SS EVAP system is the simplest to use on an SS and can even adapt to a non CCC carb even other than a Qjet.
Just one of the bases that need to be covered when swapping engines.

A/C? All cruisers need A/C, even north of the border. You need good A/C even to run defrost properly.
Bob

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Yep, plenty of good manufacturers with decently priced (relatively speaking at today's prices) converters for the older, non-lockup TH350s and the overdrive transmissions - not so much for the "newer", lock-up TH350C transmissions. There are some that make some "budget" priced brands, compared to Hughes and TCI, but do you save money when one tears up, trashes your transmission, and you have to start all over again? There are a couple areas where you really shouldn't skimp on going with a "name brand" and this is one of them.

No doubt a good 10" 3000-3200 converter will make a big difference in 60ft times and tame a big cam - in fact they're necessary for engines that have to idle upwards of 1000 rpm and over to keep from jarring loose the fillings in your teeth when going from park to drive/reverse. The better ones won't compromise daily driving either at that stall speed. The "problem" for Troy is to get that for a lockup TH350c, which the Hughes GM30L is advertised as a 3000 stall, but would get up to, maybe, 2700 rpm is $900 (including the $100 core). TCI has a Super StreetFighter, 3500-3800 converter (242422) for $651 (no core needed) that if anything like their non-lockup TH350 converter (which I would think it would be), that's a little much for most people on a moderately powered 383 driver. You'll know that one's in there - meaning there's going to be some noticeable slippage, which if you're running about in a 500-plus weekend car, it might be acceptable, but even then, the cooling system might need some upgrades.

Building a hot rod can be a slippery slope pointed towards a rabbit hole.

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If you do keep the CCC eystem there are a couple of upgrades you can install into it. First is a heated O2 sensor upgrade which is especially useful with headers. Ebay sells pretty cheap heated O2 sensor wiring harness kits for 1 wire O2 sensors systems. Other major upgrade is installing a 87 or 88 ECM and a ZZ4 PROM chip. The ZZ4 chip has a hotter tune than the stock L69 chip but requires the use of a 87+ ECM. The ZZ4 chip can also accept a little hotter cam than the stock chips as it was developed by GMPP for 305 to 350 swaps.

The CCC system is an all or nothing deal. You can't delete any of the sensors. However, you can delete a couple of the outputs like the AIR injection system.

It is possible you may need to drill the idle circuits in the Qjet a little bigger as they are border line lean for a stock 305. A good carb rebuilder should be able to perform any required carb modifications. The CCC carbs have two idle mixture adjustments, the needles in the carb base and the IAB valve in the airhorn. The mixture needles are the coarse mixture adjustments for both curb and off idle. The IAB valve is the fine mixture adjustment for only the curb idle. Be sure to use a thick mounting gasket, not a thin one and torque the Qjet correctly to 144 lb/in.

You may want to get a snorkel aircleaner to plumb in cooler outside air. Those open aircleaners suck in hot air which is less dense. Engines suck in air mass which is volume × density.

Last edited by Buick Runner; Yesterday at 02:50 AM.

SBC powered 1987 Regal with TES headers, ZZ4 intake, ZZ4 PROM chip, mini starter, THM2004R, 2500 stall converter, 2040 cam, CCC system, and 3.73 posi rear.

2008 ex NPS P71 Crown Victoria, cop motor, cop shocks, cop brakes, and Jmod.

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so good news, looks like my main bolts are ARP,,
this is the intake I have, bummer single plane...
the other is off the original 400,, so gonna have to clean it up ,,I can always ask summit if I can trade heads choice as the ones I ordered wont be ready until May I think,, back ordered, see what they say?
have to get going but will read over all the replies about the converter, looks confusing but Im sure you will help me understand. and also reply about the ccc system, thanks all for the help, I really appreciate it.
Cheers Troy.

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Boy, that Torker is OLD. I have that Torker intake laying up in the Mezz at the shop for the past 30+ years. It originally and only was installed on the mild 350 in my 72 Chevelle SBC, installed it maybe 1975. I would consider it not even an option on a SBC today. Only value is to someone with fuzzy dice on the rearview mirror. Or maybe 4 bucks at the alum scrap recycler.
To use that with a spreadbore carb you needed the spreadbore to squarebore adapter, it's about 3/4" thick. When i had that Torker, that adapter and a Qjet a 1/8" thick stainless plate was fabricated and press installed in the center of the adapter and became a plenum divider. Purpose was to help improve direction and flow in the plenum. All of that setup is still laying around the shop somewhere. Even the high modified 1972 Qjet I build way back then is still 100% good and in a special box in the mezz. Gotta love nostalgia.
Kevin, remember all that?

Forget that spreadbore 400 intake that looks and works better with snow on it. Cast iron may be getting a fair price at the scrape yard.

The intake to use is the one off the 305. First it is alum and MUCH lighter. Second if you stay CCC. or Qjet , or keep the cruise control, you would just clean the intake up and see if you have an OK port match to the heads you finally end up with. Having a smaller intake manifold port to match a large head intake port is a mismatch that could be lived with. Bigger intake to a small head port not a good option. The stock 305 L69 intake is an OK intake and it would need a 400 buck Edel to upgrade/replace it, and have all the usual intake swap problems. Carb linkage, A/C compressor bracket, cruise bracket, all fit easily on a 305 intake, all require mods to make work on an aftermarket intake.

Good deal on the heads. Now you have time to rethink the availability, price and how big of a head is too big. Don't forget torque is the goal, yes?

I see you approaching this engine build in the correct manor. You decide what the end result of the engine build need to be. A shortblock is then build to withstand the final power numbers so it is done only once. Now heads, cam, intake, exhaust, ignition can be packaged to get the numbers you need. Today getting parts is much more difficult, availability, we all suffer and make concessions so we can still move forward. Take your time and find and buy a good set of heads. Then a cam to make your heads, intake and exhaust compliment each other. You do need to have patience and not jump the gun buying a parts that don't play well together. This is where advice from Kevin helps your cause.Unfortunately getting parts makes everything much more difficult.
A friend with a 20k 455 Olds build was delayed a year until a cam blank was obtained.
Brent's cam choice for his new 383 was not his first choice for venders.
You need to be leary of every engine part you purchase today.

Don't mean to sound negative, just be patient and know it's a little more difficult to put together a toy car these days. But a 400" ish SBC with some good heads and the proper cam even on CCC will be a fun car, especially with the TH350 that is able to compliment the new torque.

Kevin. A non lockup torque converter going into a 350C would just mean the trans wouldn't have lockup? My friend Jeff has a 25K mile 84SS, original L69 shortblock, better heads, cam, non-CCC . It would also be the TH350C, rebuild with a minimum of internals with a new torque converter with a higher stall speed.
Now i need to talk to him and get the full scoop on the trans and converter in that car.

Bob

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Originally Posted by mmc427ss
Boy, that Torker is OLD………..To use that with a spreadbore carb you needed the spreadbore to squarebore adapter, it's about 3/4" thick……. Kevin, remember all that?

Forget that spreadbore 400 intake……… The intake to use is the one off the 305. First it is alum and MUCH lighter………….. Carb linkage, A/C compressor bracket, cruise bracket, all fit easily on a 305 intake, all require mods to make work on an aftermarket intake.

Kevin. A non lockup torque converter going into a 350C would just mean the trans wouldn't have lockup? My friend Jeff has a 25K mile 84SS, original L69 shortblock, better heads, cam, non-CCC . It would also be the TH350C, rebuild with a minimum of internals with a new torque converter with a higher stall speed.
Bob

I only quoted what I’m replying to. Bob is stop on.

That is the OLD 2725 Torker with the oil fill tube opening up front (VERY nostalgic). However, it is better than the newer Torker II, which isn't saying much comparing it to, IMHO, the worst single plane intake ever made. If you’re going to run the computer controlled carb and distributor, as Bob said it would require an adapter and your hood wouldn’t be able to close. You might even have issues with the hood closing using it with a Holley if you decide against using the computer controlled carb.

As Bob said, do not use the old 400 intake (maybe as a boat anchor). I also wouldn’t consider the 2725 Torker as even a decent "match" for your purposes – reusing the intake off the 305 would be a better choice for you. That said, it looks like there are some “watchers” on a couple 2725 Torker intakes for sale on eBay for $109 and $150 (oil fill tube included) plus shipping. I bet if you listed yours at $100 plus shipping you might get a bite on it - assuming you confirm it's not warped and the intake ports haven't been butchered with a bad "gasket matching" effort by someone.

Bob, the TH350C has a different input shaft than the older TH350s. I’m pretty sure a converter for the old TH350 will fit in the TH350C, but it doesn’t engage enough of the input shaft and I believe messes with the fluid pressure - anyway, pretty sure it won’t last long, especially behind any power. What most people do when it’s time for a rebuild on a TH350C is to convert it to the older TH350’s input shaft and replace a few other parts for the older TH350.

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