CELEBRATING 20 YEARS!

Hears what I have
1985 Monte Carlo SS, 383 stroker engine been in the car for about 5 years.
No computer control, not even a ECM in the car.
Quick Fuel 735 Carb with electric choke.
Everything has been working fine until?? I removed the intake manifold to fix an oil leak.

I had to pull the intake to fix a leak near the back, pulled the sending unit under the distributor and sealed the threads to stop leaking.
Replaced all gaskets and used Right Stuff to seal the front and back on the intake manifold.

Now the choke lite comes on and stays on, if I unplug the positive wire it goes out.
I checked the volts to the positive wire and I have just under 12 volts when unhooked, when I hook it back up to the choke It only read less than 1 volt.
This is all done with the key in the on position, when in the off position no light as it should be.

I removed the thermostat from the choke and supplied 12 volts to it, when remove the spring did it's thing when it heated up.
I also disconnected the wires from the oil pressure sending unit under the distributor and the light still stayed on.
Any ideas guys?

Keith

Did you reuse the old oil pressure switch?? It may need to be replaced, good luck!!

I did not replace it at this time.
I did put a new one on last summer.

Keith,

Did this start when you replaced the "switch" last summer? The "on/off switch" for the light and the "continuous metering sender" for the gauge can be confused by the auto parts stores, and are not interchangeable. Might confirm that first?

I am traveling and don't have my shop manual, nor much of my memory, so I don't recall if these are single wire (ground through the body) or two wire (power and ground). Especially if its single wire, make sure you are NOT using teflon tape as it cuts the ground. Use teflon dope instead.

Let us know any updates and thanks for sharing.

Gordon

.

This is the diagram for an 88. Hth

When I replaced the sending unit last summer, everything was working fine until I removed the intake manifold last week.
The carb unit has 2 wires, one ground and the other hot. I tried a direct ground to the negative side of the carb and the light still stayed on.

What I find strange is when I remove the positive wire from the carb and check that wire, I have near 12 volts. When I reconnect it to the carb and check it has less than 1 volt.

Hear me out - did you hook up the sensor connector backwards? Could be simple as that. It is also possible the replacement sensor broke internally when re-installing. Aftermarket parts like this can be bad right out of the box or break soon after. I've had several ignition coils, control modules, and various sensors like that. Since the choke is in the same circuit as the oil pressure sensor, the constant here is that it's likely something to do with that sensor you R&I'd. Try replacing it for process of elimination.

Ok This is what I did today
got a new oil sending unit and installed it. Same Problem
Went back to town and got a new carb thermostat and installed it. Same Problem

Light still stays on when the ignition is turned on, and the positive wire is hooked up.

Would someone be willing to check there no-computer controlled electric choke system with the positive wire disconnected and then with it connected??

When I am disconnected, I get 12 volts, when I hook it back up I only get around 1 volt.
I made jumpers to give it a positive ground and the same problem.

Open to all ideas at this point

Thank you
Keith

Well I think I have my problem solved, and boy do I feel dumb.
I think it turned out to be just a blowed fuse.
It turned out to be the only fuse I never check at first. It was at the top of the block and I did not see it.
Thanks for all the help guys
Keith

Keith - you just made us all a bit smarter. Persistence paid off. Thanks for sharing.
Gordon