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Originally Posted by DC87Monte
Hey Brent I have a stupid question how many accessory holes do you have in your cylinder heads?


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So here is a cost breakdown of the whole project. If you order the gm serpentine from Summit it's $1376 before taxes, probably a lot less hassle but doing it myself I saved a little money, got the sanden compressor, and the upgraded 140 amp alternator .

Ac delco tensioner 38118 $45
Smog pump delete pulley and bracket 10129569 $55
Ac delco waterpump 88926233 $36
Alternator 140 amp iceberg cs130 $150
Power steering pump 207926 $75
Sanden 4864 FLX7 $231
Dirty dingo r4 to sanden compressor bracket $49
Brackets, braces, and pulleys from pull a part caprice $58
Sandblasting $free
Duplicolor engine primer, semi gloss black, and aluminum cast paint $40
New bolts and hardware $40
Alternator connector Ac delco pt2297 $9
5 watt 50 ohm resistor for volt gauge to alternator $0.05
Gates K060980 serpentine belt $30

Cost for Serpentine setup only is $818 before taxes


The other part of this project was the ac part. The project is complete and hopefully in the next week or 2 I'll charge the system which I will do myself, I have gauges and the local O'Reilly has a vacuum pump on the loaner tool program so just the cost of the needed r134a is all that remains as long as no problems come about.

Original Air condenser 11-215p $322
Original Air liquid line 13-281 $84
Four seasons soft hoses 55451 $81
Eaton 90° fitting to unkink hose to accumulator $16
Oring pack $6
Ac flush for evaporator $24
Sanden sp-15 compressor oil $12
Four seasons 38904 variable orfice tube $10
Gm 151589 accumulator $20
R134a refrigerant $

Cost for ac parts is $575

Cost for new cable from battery to alternator $52

There might be a few small things that I forgot but total cost of project is around $1445. Not cheap but considering other options not too bad.













Last edited by 88ssBrent; 04/25/22 08:53 PM.
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Brent, those are the same trick Flow heads I have. Decent heads. maybe not the ultimate at 175cc.but great for the street.

Keep up the good work. Beautiful install.

Fred


87 SS, Harwood hood, UMI trailing arms. Hooker 2050 Headers (Jet Hot Coated). Hooker Cat-Back Exhaust, Goodwrench 350, Ported TPI, Trick Flow 56cc alum heads, SLP runners, Comp Cams 260AH-12 cam, Trick Flow roller rockers, TCI 2400 stall converter, Denny's 3.5" Driveshaft, GBodyParts GNX Replica Wheels 18x8 & 18x9. F-Body Serpentine Belt Sys.
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I'm happy with them on the 305, if I ever build a 383 I'll probably clean the ports up a little and use them with a pretty sizeable dished pistons. The small runner will work decent for street I would think. Thank you for the compliments.

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Vintage air finally released their parts for the G body with condenser fitting ports on the passenger side. However it is not really made to work with OEM configuration. The condenser itself looks like it is a universal type configuration with fitting ports directly on it on the end, & then a hard line tube is connected to put the fitting near stock (passenger side) location, the other line connects to the dryer directly on the front of the condenser & then a hard line from it to near stock (passenger side) location. they have their own bracketry that mounts it to the core support, it doesn't sit in the saddles like OEM does. It can be made to work, & may work fine, not me as i have a supercharger heat exchanger in front of where condenser would be. I could possible use their condenser with one of their hard lines & make my own for the other & use the OEM dryer in stock location.

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not much room in glove box area

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I think overall it looks like a nice complete kit and price is decent if you were starting from scratch putting air back in a car. The only thing that has me curious is if the firewall cover could be welded in to make a complete metal firewall and how accessible would everything be from inside? Condenser kit alone looks nice and would be a nice addition.

I'm 110% happy with the route I went even using the condenser and making it fit, everything appears factory for the most part. At cruise ins and car shows I actually get ask more questions about my ac setup than anything. There is tons of the gm serpentine out there even on their crates so the questions usually revolve around the sanden compressor, brackets, and the hoses I used. The air is as cold as anything I have ever been in, I once thought about trying to get a hold of some r12 before the upgrade but I would put my ac against any r12 system now.

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Originally Posted by 88ssBrent
I think overall it looks like a nice complete kit and price is decent if you were starting from scratch putting air back in a car. The only thing that has me curious is if the firewall cover could be welded in to make a complete metal firewall and how accessible would everything be from inside? Condenser kit alone looks nice and would be a nice addition.

I'm 110% happy with the route I went even using the condenser and making it fit, everything appears factory for the most part. At cruise ins and car shows I actually get ask more questions about my ac setup than anything. There is tons of the gm serpentine out there even on their crates so the questions usually revolve around the sanden compressor, brackets, and the hoses I used. The air is as cold as anything I have ever been in, I once thought about trying to get a hold of some r12 before the upgrade but I would put my ac against any r12 system now.


I may get this kit after all & use the condenser & one of their included hard lines, make a second hard line so I have fittings close to where OEM would be. Use the tube up to the dryer shown in the early posts, & have hoses made to connect to my compressor mounted low on passenger side (LS Swap).

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Brent, I have a question. I am doing the Sanden conversion. I plan to use the same parts you used. I have started ordering the parts. But I have a question on the 90 degree hose end that you got, Eaton 75712E-Z91. I googled that number and got hits from several companies but the fitting is steel. Is the fitting on your hose steel? The OEM fittings are all aluminum. Does it matter if the fitting is steel or aluminum?

Thanks,
Fred

Last edited by Fred SS; 10/19/22 05:40 PM. Reason: Add additional question

87 SS, Harwood hood, UMI trailing arms. Hooker 2050 Headers (Jet Hot Coated). Hooker Cat-Back Exhaust, Goodwrench 350, Ported TPI, Trick Flow 56cc alum heads, SLP runners, Comp Cams 260AH-12 cam, Trick Flow roller rockers, TCI 2400 stall converter, Denny's 3.5" Driveshaft, GBodyParts GNX Replica Wheels 18x8 & 18x9. F-Body Serpentine Belt Sys.
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Never put much thought into the material, I just told them what I wanted size wise they had it and put it on. I went to the garage and checked with a magnet and yep its steel.

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Thanks Brent. After doing more research it appears that the fitting is available in both steel and aluminum. I guess it does not matter which material is used if your just dealing with an automotive R12/R134a A/C system. I found a web site, TBI Products, that specifies the reduced barrier 90 degree fitting and they explained the difference with normal barrier fittings. Their web site says that both reduced barrier and barrier hose has the same inside diameter. But reduced barrier hose has a reduced wall thickness that results in a smaller OD. This is done so that the hose can more easily make the tight bends in an automotive engine compartment.


87 SS, Harwood hood, UMI trailing arms. Hooker 2050 Headers (Jet Hot Coated). Hooker Cat-Back Exhaust, Goodwrench 350, Ported TPI, Trick Flow 56cc alum heads, SLP runners, Comp Cams 260AH-12 cam, Trick Flow roller rockers, TCI 2400 stall converter, Denny's 3.5" Driveshaft, GBodyParts GNX Replica Wheels 18x8 & 18x9. F-Body Serpentine Belt Sys.
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