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First picture is with the k060980 /98.07" gates micro v belt, as you can see the belt tension indicator looks better than the picture i posted before. Second picture is one I found from the day I was pulling the serpentine off the 93 caprice. I find it kind of neat to pull this stuff and it live on in another car.

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Looking good.
I don't see a problem with using 6 rib on the 8 rib compressor pulley as long as the spacing between ribs is the same on both belts. I never looked at that spec for the rib belts to know if they do vary.
Belt alignment is always critical when ever you start to mix and match parts from different cars or engine setups. Using a straight edge on the crank pulley front edges you can get a good idea of how the different pulleys run in relationship to each other. Throwing belts or chewing them up in the old days was always a problem when we did non factory parts and mods. Even how the P/S pulley is pressed onto the pump shaft can be a variable.

Once you put a load on an idling engine you will have a good idea of how the belt length and tensioner setup works. Full load from the compressor, alt and P/S pump at idle will show to short, to long quickly. Serp belt setups are usually more forgiving than the old one belt for each accessory.

Painted pulleys can be a problem and squeal until the paint is "broke in". Again may not be as big an issue on serp, generally more belt wrap per pulley that stock V belts especially on the squealer, the P/S pump.

On your floor coverings in the garage, are those what we call diapers? Sorry, a friend's son had a Neon back in his college days. It had that head gasket oil passage leak problem. It had a case of oil in the trunk and when he came home what we called a diaper was under the engine to catch oil dripping. Just a large piece of the wrapper the newspaper rolls came covered in at my work. Just funnin but saw a couple different things under the car in the pics.
Another thing a floor diaper is good for is locating leaks. My daughter's GTP had the diaper for a few weeks. Made it easy to know right above the spot was the corner of that trans pan. Couple loose pan bolts. Gaskets just not what they used to be, I change that about 2 years ago.

Did you get the right wheel housing back in yet? Interested to know how that line set final install turned out with the well back in.

Wondering, how did the pump to steering box high pressure P/S line work out. The P/S pump on the car now is the one pulled from the donor? Interestingly you may notice a difference in how much assist the steering now has if the pump has been changed. Output pressures and volume vary from car to car. When an XH steering box was swapped into my 86 a revalving of the stock SS pump was done, that was 25 years ago. Just something to take note of.

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Was the original setup like this with the anchor point for the brace at the end of the spacer bolt? That concerns me, that enough flexing would cause fatigue. I would have tried to make the brace so it was as close to the header flange as possible.
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Checked off of every pulley with machinist straightedge and everything checked out good. Also checked the rib dimensions on the pulleys vs sanden pulley and everything checked out. The belt tension I was just trying to get close as you said Bob the truth will be told once running. Not sure on the serpentine belt and pulleys being painted but hopefully will find out soon if they squeal from the paint.

As of now nothing leaks but it is a sbc so who knows. In my garage the boss has one rule, she doesn't care one bit what I'm up to but she better have a spot cleared to park her car so right before I close the garage I slide whatever under just to keep the boss happy. Funny story, my dad has a "junk" truck that he does chores in, my house was brand new all nice looking concrete he pulls in and leaves 2 big drips, I said something to him and he said "about 200 more drips and we would be even". We had a good laugh.

No wheel housing back in yet, I don't for see any problems but you never know. I was on a staycation last week and had tons to do around the house, didn't get hardly any time on the car.

Put new o rings on low pressure and high pressure lines as well as a new hose on high pressure without the switch. The steering pump is new, it's off a 90 camaro, it's cardone brand we will see how it does. I tried using the factory monte carlo ss pump but bolt pattern was different. The one on the caprice didn't look too good and the car had lots of miles.

As far as the stud for the brace goes, the gmpp (GM Performance Parts) serpentine kit comes with a 3" oal stud and a 1.5" spacer to attach that brace, it's noted on the last page of the instructions that I posted on the previous page of this thread. The spacer is not in the photo but I made my own spacers and felt it was sticking out pretty far at 1.5" so I ground some on the end of the brace for clearance and the smallest spacer I could use was 1 1/4" long before having to grind to much off the brace or the brace making contact with the header. The manifolds on the caprice were almost 2" thick at the part where the brace attaches on the stock vehicle. I assume gmpp knew that the majority of people buying the kit would be using headers and the brace would contact the headers so they felt ok using the stud and spacer. I just threw a stud I had laying around just to get the brace right. Lots of people don't even use the braces so that's always an option. I have run a stud and 1 3/8" spacer on the factory brackets for the ac mount and not had issues on the other side after almost 2 years, the spacer comes with most header orders so I felt ok with it.

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Here is the brace on the other side for the serpentine. I didn't have to make any modifications to it so I didn't show it. It had a bracket on it from the caprice for wiring but I cut it off.

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and he said "about 200 more drips and we would be even". We had a good laugh.
I'm still laughing!!!!!

Here's a little article i did on the P/S valving.
http://jeffd.50megs.com/Pump_valve_mod_page.ht
Back in the day i found even though the G P/S pump and 3rd Gen F pumps were the same the valving was different on non serp 3rd gen. A trip to see my Chevy dealership parts guy back then confirmed the 3rd gen F used the same "over the counter" pump for all 3rd Gen F, no mention about valving differences. And when I pulled the valving from various 3rd Gen F's at the u-pull they were the same for a V-6 car or and IROC. But all were different valving than a stock SS pump.
Just some useless info.

Bob

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Bob, link wouldn't work so i searched it and looks like the m got cut off when you posted it. I like when you send the links to some of the old pages. When doing the tkx swap in the Monte Marc's t5 garage scene page was great to have. Lots of info on these pages.

http://jeffd.50megs.com/Pump_valve_mod_page.htm

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Originally Posted by 88ssBrent
Bob, link wouldn't work so i searched it and looks like the m got cut off when you posted it. I like when you send the links to some of the old pages. When doing the tkx swap in the Monte Marc's t5 garage scene page was great to have. Lots of info on these pages.

http://jeffd.50megs.com/Pump_valve_mod_page.htm


Bob's instructions are great. I used them last year on my serpentine F-body PS pump.


87 SS, Harwood hood, UMI trailing arms. Hooker 2050 Headers (Jet Hot Coated). Hooker Cat-Back Exhaust, Goodwrench 350, Ported TPI, Trick Flow 56cc alum heads, SLP runners, Comp Cams 260AH-12 cam, Trick Flow roller rockers, TCI 2400 stall converter, Denny's 3.5" Driveshaft, GBodyParts GNX Replica Wheels 18x8 & 18x9. F-Body Serpentine Belt Sys.
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Fred, what did you do about the bracing on each side?

Did you drive the car any while using the fbody pump and valving with the g body box? Not knowing I made the mistake of turning my pump in for a $40 core charge and didn't even think about the different valving until Bob mentioned it above. I did tons of research on the swap across a lot of different forums and never ran across anything mentioning the valving, evidently I didn't do enough research. The pump I'm using is for a 1990 camaro.

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I believe you will be fine with the 90 F pump. All those replacement pumps whether reman'ed or new have to meet demands of a large number of vehicles. If anything they probable error on the high side.

Somewhere up in the mezz at the shop is valve parts for a Saginaw pump, so we got parts.

Way back a couple decades ago swapping in the 3rd Gen F parts was common on a G-body. Only a very select few F-bodies got 16" tires until the 4th gens came out. Those 16" cars were the ones with the goodies from both Chevy and Pontiac. The late 3rd Gen IROC, TRANS AM GTA and the 1LE Camaro. The XH steering box from those Camaro was the high demand box of those old days, and is still in demand today.
Many other of those high perf 3rd Gen F parts made it to the Gs, the 34 and 36 mm sway bars, 1LE 12" front rotors, 16" wheels, 1LE control arm bushings, 700 and higher front coil springs, ( up to 1000 was an optional spring up front), TPI, T5 with hydraulics, bellhousings, 079 ECM and PROMS, even the ZZ4 engine was born/created to fix the 3rd Gen F.

Point is, when I swapped in the XH box in the 86, 245/50x16 tires/wheels, all new Moog linkage were done at the same time. The L69 was still spinning an automatic and the A/C was working very well. When pulling out of a parking space, turning to the full left you could tell the pump couldn't keep up with the demand, surging. To a parking lot at higher speeds, idling, quick turns left and right showed the pump wasn't keeping up with demand. Valving was then done.

20 years ago from the old paper parts books at the dealership "the man" and I looked at all the 3rd Gen choices for what they said was the part number for those few HP F-bodies produced and ALL the Fs showed the same P/S pump part number for all 3rd Gen in the late 80s into the end in 92. So that is the valving used in the my 86 stock pump.

I started to make a P/S pressure gauge setup that could be easily spliced into the box's input but sourcing a fitting or something silly put an end to that. From most indication i see 1200 psi is a high side, lower depending on what the system has for parts. There are P/S pressure gauge setups available to buy.
http://protecequipment.ca/product/detail/tg-4251-power-steering-system-pressure-gauge

Another thing, use GM P/S fluid. From the people that seem to know what's best for a Saginaw pump. It's got pricey, paid 24 for three qt last time I bought some. I've seen it on the shelf at some of those chain parts stores, Advance, Zone, Boys.
https://fluidchemica.com/10-5030

Bob

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Nice work, very clean and well thought out.


Enjoy life, family first!
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Originally Posted by 88ssBrent
Fred, what did you do about the bracing on each side?

Did you drive the car any while using the fbody pump and valving with the g body box? Not knowing I made the mistake of turning my pump in for a $40 core charge and didn't even think about the different valving until Bob mentioned it above. I did tons of research on the swap across a lot of different forums and never ran across anything mentioning the valving, evidently I didn't do enough research. The pump I'm using is for a 1990 camaro.


Brent, Yes I drove for a couple years with the Fbody PS pump on my serpentine setup without touching the valve. Steering was fine on the road. But I always noticed when parking, the steering wheel would stutter while turning it. As if the pressure or volume was inadequate. I read Bob's instructions and did some research. Bought a Borgensen power steering pump valve kit and also bought some of the parts Bob mentioned in his writeup. I followed his instructions. If I remember correctly I increased the pressure slightly. I think I did replace the spring. The problem went away.

Concerning bracing, I do not have my AC installed yet. That is my next project. I did install the alternator brace that goes from the alternator to the exhaust manifold stud.


87 SS, Harwood hood, UMI trailing arms. Hooker 2050 Headers (Jet Hot Coated). Hooker Cat-Back Exhaust, Goodwrench 350, Ported TPI, Trick Flow 56cc alum heads, SLP runners, Comp Cams 260AH-12 cam, Trick Flow roller rockers, TCI 2400 stall converter, Denny's 3.5" Driveshaft, GBodyParts GNX Replica Wheels 18x8 & 18x9. F-Body Serpentine Belt Sys.
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Thank you for the compliments 1 Slow SS. That's good to hear on the fbody steering pump Fred, I guess I will fire it up and see what I've got and go from there. One thing that is taking a little longer is I removed everything ccc based and have switched over to a non ccc quadrajet off of a 77 corvette and a dui distributor. It's the way I wanted to go on the new motor and I already had the stuff so I figured I would give it a try. I could have the ccc back up and operational in about 2 days. I haven't brought it up because it is always a sore subject on the forum. I'll go into detail on that on my build thread . Back to the serpentine and ac discussion.

I've been working on lots of details, one of the things I did was measured and ordered a new cable through Ce auto electric supply. I like how their online cable builder is laid out and usually it ships that day. https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/custom-cable-builder/

I tried seeing how f body was ran but couldn't find anything. I have it running from the battery down to the frame, follow the starter cable and turn off down the crossmember following the brake line, comes up to a bracket I made on pan rail to the front of engine, up to the bracket.

First picture is my order form from cable builder, I went 78" should have been 74" but it was my mess up, I made it work. Cable was $52, the other small cable goes to a terminal block. Second picture is new versus old cable. Other pictures are the routing.

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Brent - I am again drafting behind you! I am currently working on point-to-point resistance and voltage drop profiles along my power and ground systems to determine if there are poor contacts resulting from the (now long ago) frame-off painting. I am anticipating replacements the major wires (and some new) with 4AWG (mostly) from them also. Every bit as flexible as people say? Have you upgraded any lines/contacts on the grounding side? Looks wonderful as always.
Gordon


1987 Aerocoupe. Frame-off, notched/mini-tub, 383 with AFRs @ 535HP/487TQ, March Serpentine, 304 SS headers (Jet-Hot) & 304 3" dual exhaust w/ Borlas, Janis 200-4R, TrueTrac w/ girdle and Moser 28, Hydroboost, computer delete, lowered, every part replaced or messed with (several times).
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Gordon, it is very flexible and the easiest I've handled. The 4 awg is 1862 strand oxygen free copper. When I upgraded I did everything including the ground.

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Here is a couple of pictures of the ac lines how they lay with the inner fender in. Everything in the picture is just hand tight and it's the old accumulator. Did get to fire up the car today with the non ccc quadrajet and the dui distributor and it fired right off. Cycled the power steering and everything felt good. Belt tracked good and smooth and settled a bit, I would say the belt I mentioned before is perfect length. Instead of traditional worm gear hose clamps I went with the gates power grip heat shrink hose clamps and so far I'm impressed, only time will tell.

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Great pictures and a great looking install. I'm going to use this thread to assist with my AC setup. That is when I get to it. I'm in the process of removing my dash to get it recovered.

Keep up the good work.

Fred


87 SS, Harwood hood, UMI trailing arms. Hooker 2050 Headers (Jet Hot Coated). Hooker Cat-Back Exhaust, Goodwrench 350, Ported TPI, Trick Flow 56cc alum heads, SLP runners, Comp Cams 260AH-12 cam, Trick Flow roller rockers, TCI 2400 stall converter, Denny's 3.5" Driveshaft, GBodyParts GNX Replica Wheels 18x8 & 18x9. F-Body Serpentine Belt Sys.
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Thanks Fred! I know the serpentine swap has been done 100 times over but most of the threads have dead photo links or no photos at all. Also it's a little different twist with the sanden so hopefully it will help people with another option.

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I've probably put around 100 miles on the new setup and so far everything is good and I definitely like the new look of the engine bay. I've not charged the ac up I'll probably do that in the next week or so. I'll do A final cost of everything on Monday or Tuesday.

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Brent - are you able to shoot surface temps on your headers? The ceramic is supposed to take them down 150-200+ degrees, but of course moves heat toward the collectors. I'd like to compare as mine were baked a bit in the break-in of the new cam. Thanks,
Gordon


1987 Aerocoupe. Frame-off, notched/mini-tub, 383 with AFRs @ 535HP/487TQ, March Serpentine, 304 SS headers (Jet-Hot) & 304 3" dual exhaust w/ Borlas, Janis 200-4R, TrueTrac w/ girdle and Moser 28, Hydroboost, computer delete, lowered, every part replaced or messed with (several times).
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Gordon, hopefully I can get you those numbers tomorrow. I have a fluke temperature gun that I use to check temps, might be a little tricky with the shiny surface but we will see.

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That Looks very nice!!!


87 Monte SS,built a 383,with a 70's block.all forged.Hamburger oil pan.Patriot 190 heads.2004r trans.Hedman headers coated ,
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Originally Posted by DC87Monte
That Looks very nice!!!


Thank you for the compliment Dorian!

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So after about 350 miles this is where the gates K060980 ( 98.07" effective length) ended up, I think the K060975 ( 97.54" effective length) might be a little better.

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Hey Brent I have a stupid question how many accessory holes do you have in your cylinder heads?


87 Monte SS,built a 383,with a 70's block.all forged.Hamburger oil pan.Patriot 190 heads.2004r trans.Hedman headers coated ,
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