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#1072793 - 12/27/21 03:13 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Mathemucation and stuff...

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Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1072800 - 12/28/21 04:16 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Sorry about that chicken scratch above that was only some initial doodling to see how to relate the LCA and sway bar arm movements. The drawing is just some waste of paper in attempt to see a relationship. When the LCA pivot point relocation was done a few years ago much more accurate drawings were done, but they were not accessible at the shop the other day. Was able to dig them out the other night and put a better light on how the LCA arc actually works. And again, because of the changes made to the 86 front suspension they only really relate to that car, or a car that has the ball joint move forward.
More on this later.

Yesterday made a trip to my steel supplier and picked up a 2' piece of 2 x 2 square tube, and actually cut two bar frame mounts brackets. Dug out the 1/4" flat stock from the metal rack and found it's not 3" but 4" wide and cut two 6" length pieces that will be trimmed to weld into the frame to attach the mounts for the bar. Good thing the old horizontal band saw still cuts pretty straight yet.
Then got on the phone to CA and ordered 4 Delrin bushings and two 1 3/4" OD x 3" chrome-moly tubes for the mounts. Once they arrive the bar mounts can get done as the first physical part of this projects. Spent my first 100 bucks on this project now, many more to come.

Later this week will call Speedway and order a 37 1/2" X 1 1/4" bar drilled 3/4". Thinking there is no over the counter bar arms to fit my needs, will need to discuss having just blanks made with broached, indexed splines on the one end. Will then need to whittle out the unique arms and fab them myself.
There are 48 and 49 spline bars available in a 1 1/4" bars, don't need to get caught up in a mismatch of parts there.

Pulled the wheel/tire off the left front yesterday and blocked the LCA so the car could be dropped back on the LCA. This gives a much better view of the landing zone for the link on the LCA. After being able to view the arm from the top now a decision was made to make another version, maybe 12th, of the arm to increase frame clearance at link end of the arm. Not a big changes but need to compensate for the fact the sway bar gets shorter as it's stressed, the arms will move a little closer to the frame.

Hoping once a final arm design is done that Speedway my be able to produce it for me. All the heating and bending at precise points is not a problem for me, just a royal PITA making jigs and all that heating and bending, and possible heat treat needing done. They do that for all the arms they produce, throw them some money and hope they can make me happy.

Haven't decide on which rod ends to use yet but will purchase them very soon so progress continues. Just need to know how fat they are visually when attached to the arms. All rod ends have size specs on line, just easier to see them visually working.

Moving along, slowly.
Bob

#1072805 - 12/31/21 05:12 AM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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As with most things we do today you hit a few bumps in the road, unfortunately those bumps are now graters.

Very close to finalizing the swing arm design yesterday, the latest model, might be the fifteenth, does everything it needs to do. It even allows use of a 7.5 and 8" hole location. The 7.5" falls very close to the original hole in the LCA for the sway bar link. That area of the LCA is the easiest place to weld in a mount for the lower rod end.

With the knowledge now that an arm can be configured to work in the limited space available it was time to make some phone calls and, found the craters in the road. Speedway Eng the go to for parts is months out on getting a bar, let alone in the size I want. That was the next purchase, a 1 1/4" x 48 spline, 1 1/4" OD with a .750" bore. Simple enough, common enough, get on their list for Spring delivery if you want one. We didn't even talk price.

Next was the arm questions. No 15 degree offset, no special request orders, don't make arms from prints, don't broach the holes in the arms in house, subbed out. But would give me the phone number for the company that does the broaching. That would be a lot more cash as I would need to buy a 1/2" x 12" x 12" chunk of steel, ship it, broach, and return ship, cost add up real quick.
S&W Race Cars is 5 minutes down the road from my shop and they do a lot of water jet business these days. My son races with one of the engineers there and i may stop to see if arm production can start there. My contact with S&W started back in 1970 when I had Walt disassemble my crate DZ shortblock, clean and mike everything and reassemble. I was 19 then and best 100 bucks i spent on that 302 back then. S&W did some welding work on the 12 bolt for the 62 Nova, made the dogbox for the hood and i certainly spent a ton of cash in his speed shop back then. More recently S&W would come often to the newspaper I worked at for old newspaper to wrap parts for shipping, developed a little rapport with some of the staff at S&W. May need to spend a few minutes at S&W this coming week to discuss water jet cutting.

Speedway does have straight arms in stock, most likely will buy one initially and hack and weld one to see if I'm happy with it. Then buy another and make a the right side which would be opposite bends to the left side. So the the arms are a little more involved. Last night made a trip to see my local chassis shop/welder friend. He TIGs together all my stuff I don't want to MIG. We discussed buying arms and do the cut and weld method of fabbing the arms. Looking like that is what will now happen.


So now no bar available in what i need, and no simple arm to build my arm upon.
Really bummed me out yesterday. Project came to a screeching halt.

Have other options for a bar. I can buy a used 1 1/4'" spline bar on Ebay for cheap with a smaller OD, low rate, and just wait for the one I need. A lot less rate but the project moves forward because the bar mount fabbing to the frame is a big deal and any 1/14- 48 spline bar 37 1/2" will fit. So could buy a used Ebay bar and project moves forward.

On top of a not so good day was cleaning up some steel on my vertical belt sander and caught the edge of the belt, tore the belt and found i had used up the spare awhile ago. Within 5 minutes of driving there is a Harbor Freight, Lowes, Fastenal, TSC, Eastwood, Ace and no one had a 2" x 42" belt for the sander. Thought i was going to get stuck buying Ebay knockoff imported belts. Luckily 15 minutes up the road is a business that only does abrasives which I never knew about. My welder friend told me about it. Walked in the door and got pleasantly surprised, only top shelf products and had my belt size in any grit I wanted. Made in Germany, 5 belts, 20 bucks. The highlight of the week. Will make a trip back there again and spend more money, grinding wheel and wire wheels need replaced on the pedestal grinder. Also need to replenish the stash of wet and dry paper and flap discs for the angle grinder need to be restocked. Will go and patronize that business from now on.

Rod end for the links. Have a good idea of what and where to buy just no need to purchase until i know arms can be produced to my specs.

The Delrin bar mount bushings and tubing should be here Tues. Will drop them off for welding next week.

So two steps forward, three steps backward, and trying to not lose interest.
Bob

#1072810 - 12/31/21 06:21 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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^ Hotrodding during a "supply chain crisis"

mad

If it helps any, my 3 link parts should all be here next Wednesday... driving


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1072814 - 01/01/22 01:11 AM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Bob, I feel your pain. The only machinist in town I trust is 3/4 of the way retired, went to check progress and the scenery in his shop has hardly changed and he informed me that he was going to Florida for the whole month of January. Also noted that only a few sbc sitting around, some other makes there but 80% is ls stuff , made me think. Called a few other machine shops that people recommend and they said at the least 6 months. Thinking about just getting the block set it in the corner and wait for another day or looking at other options,

Just to occupy my mind I got all my gm f body serpentine pieces down off the shelf. I have all the brackets, pulleys, braces, and hardware that I sandblasted. I like the the dirty dingo brackets that convert the r4 to a sanden on the serpentine, use f body lines to f body condensor on passenger side, f body fittings come off condensor lower so that would give me more room for my plan to route my dual snorkel in the future. Also would update to parallel flow. Guess what? No one has a parallel flow condesor for an 88-92 f body in stock. Original Air would be $320 and it would atleast be a month. Gm or Ac Delco new f body steering pump can't be found. So I put everything back up on the shelf for another day.

This is getting old but what else can a person do. Thankfully my car runs and drives, it would be a tough putt building a whole car right now.

#1072824 - 01/02/22 01:50 AM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Yep, whether the car parts, appliance parts or just a trip to the grocery store we are tested every day with demand. I've done appliance repair for 30+ years as a side gig, with parts coming from overseas for quite some time now it's hard to fix stuff today. With most appliances being digital, processors, most of what you get for replacement is remanufactured. With car parts most also come from overseas, and the USA stuff can't get raw materials for the most part.

As far as a bar for the sway bar project haven't exhausted all the venders to see if anyone has the bar size wanted. Once this holiday season is over and businesses are back to their norm will see what I can dig up. There are other bar suppliers but price can be an issue. Besides gas and groceries the prices everywhere have also gone up significantly.

I'll figure out the making of the arms for the bar. Not afraid of the idea of welding something together. My centerlink for the steering has inner tie rod locations relocated, that bar is about 1" thick at that location. 10 years now since welding that and ZERO issues with welds. "Slugs" with the taper for the tie rod were cut out of one link and relocated 11/16" lower on a new center link. For my welding guy that's just a zillion passes with a TIG. That mod was done to improve the terrible bump steer of a B spindle swap into the G. Reduced bump by over 60% and made bump almost a non-issue.

Another part of the bump fix was the mod that allowed going from 4 1/2 degree caster to 9 1/2 caster which changes the steering arm height at the outer rod. After making an accurate bumpsteer gauge real numbers on bump showed it was actually very good in droop and acceptable in compression.
Before doing any bump mods using the B spindle the tires would actually squeal as they were lifted off the sealed concrete floor in the shop. The toe in changed that much when lifted. After the centerlink mod measured the change in bump on a digital alignment rack. Actually did the centerlink swap on the rack.

The reason to mention bump is when (?) the LCAs are removed to weld in the mounts for the bar link the springs and shocks are out, on both sides of the car. At the time the bump gauge cane be removed from it's case and bump will be addressed again. My thinking is by manipulating the bump "curve" via a new center link inner tie rod height I may be able to maintain a good bump and add some Ackermann to the steering. As a little toe in at compression and more toe out in droop. Right now it's a very small amount toe in at full droop and a little more than necessary toe in at compression.

Initially thought this three piece sway bar was not a big deal. Now with parts a problem, having to fab my own arms, arm mounts, links, link mounts, and then throw in a possible new centerlink to adjust bump again it's looking like "the Winter project". Always have a list of stuff to do to the car when it's to cold outside for that fair weather turd. Now if lucky may get just one project done.
Bob

#1072835 - 01/02/22 05:24 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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I welded my tabs onto my LCAs on the car, never removed them. Thought you didn't want to pull the front springs for this project? laugh I guess you are going to be pretty tight back in there behind the spindle with where you are putting the tabs though...

You might talk with Ron about the custom swing arms, he may know someone that could build them to your specs...


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1072844 - 01/03/22 12:28 AM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Another phone call this week to https://racingbars.com/ they make the Schroeder bars. Hoping they can produce a bar in the size needed and maybe help with arms.

Today started playing with the welding method of making the arms. Was able to find the angles of the compound cuts necessary to form the arms. Gotta love 3/4" plywood. At present a 7 1/2 degree with a 27 degree bevel cut at each joint. Next is take it to the welder and see what he needs done to glue them together.The end result would be I could cut up a standard straight arm and end up with a dogleg offset arm. Of course when you cut the steel arm at near a 100 bucks each there is only one shot at cutting them correctly.

The reason for extensive arm development is landing that LCA mount in the optimum location. The dogleg arm is necessary to allow a longer link. If 1/2" rod ends are used for the links overall length of the link requires a raised level arm, which is made possible by the dogleg. The height of a lower mount is also tall when attached to a flat surface. Math says lower mount will require .966" added to link length. In the shop is 1 1/2" x 1/4" wall square tube that the mounts may be cut from. May also need to cut a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 square hole in the LCA to drop the mount into to reduce that height. Fortunately that is the last stage of this project, lower link mounts.

First is to have a bar and get it tucked up under the frame and mounts tacked in. And that is only if the exact arms needed can be fabbed. hoping for a fruitful week coming.
Bob

Last edited by mmc427ss; 01/03/22 12:37 AM.
#1072847 - 01/03/22 04:20 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Good Luck!!!


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1072861 - 01/04/22 08:53 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Hi Bob - I admire your attention to minute details! Just imagine what the MCSS would have been if GM had devoted half as much thought to that car's design.

Last edited by MAP; 01/05/22 01:59 AM.
#1072864 - 01/05/22 05:33 AM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Well had a VERY productive day. Made the phone call to Racingbars and talked to the owner, what a guy, genuine. Any bar size I want is not a long wait. In stock and could have a 1 1/4 OD with .625 ID bar by next week. A .750 ID would be a couple weeks, not months like Speedway Eng.
And about arms, he can broach and make any width, or length I want, but they don't bend them. So next is figure out whether I want to cut and weld a 2" wide straight bar, or have them cut a piece of 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 12" with a broach were my print says it should be. He can do either. Will be emailing them a print of the arm size I need and could possibly have parts in a few weeks.
Don't need to ask price at this point, parts in hand is more important. Wasted to many brain cells doing all this thinking to just flush the toilet on it.
So the project after looking dead in the water is now back up to full speed, well, not full speed, that doesn't happen anymore.

The bushings and 1 3/4" chromemoly tubing for the frame mounts showed up yesterday. The Delrin bushings are very nice. Not crazy about the bushing's fit in the tube, loose, maybe .005". Some of that exotic 3M epoxy would fix that. The tubing I ordered at 3" length but thinking it may need to be a little longer to mount to the frame notch. Will put the bar mounts on hold now until a bar is in hand. The bar mounts are fabbed and sitting on the bench, just need a bar to be able to do the notch and mounts.

Last night dug out the 1 1/2" square tube and found it was 3/16" wall not 1/4" but that's good. Clamped that 8' piece of tube in the saw and made two LCA mounts for the bottom of the links. Made them for a 1/2" rod end OD, but thinking I may instead use some nice 7/16" ends I found. Getting a mating female rod end for some high quality rod ends can be a problem. Trying to avoid using a high misalignment rod, generally no females available. Cone spacers for the rod ends are available but may have to machine them thinner for the lower mounts bracket opening. Just another detail to be dealt with.
Most likely will order these links soon. Thinking nylafiber over teflon and not aluminum.
https://rodendsupply.com/shop/chromoly-steel-nylafiber-matrix-race-rod-ends/

Need to order two 1 1/4" split collars for the bar, located on the inboard side of the mounts each side. They prevent the bar from walking to either side and keep the arms aligned to the frame. I'm told the bar will reduce in length when under severe load about an 1/8". so you need to build that clearance into the mounts/shouldered Delrin bushings. Did i mention they are nice. I got Delrin in like 20 places in the car now, 4 more makes it two dozen. Even At 16 bucks x 4 for the new bushings I couldn't buy a stick of Delrin rod and do it myself easier.
Even made leaf spring rub spacer for a friend's Tacoma from some scrap Delrin left over from the body mounts. Several of his plastic spring spacers disappeared, springs squeaked, Toyota washed their hands of the problem and said the fix was a set of their new and improved springs. Whittled out two spacer from Delrin and it's been a couple years now, no squeaks.
So Delrin it is for the bar bushings.

Parts list is still long yet but move forward.
Bob

#1072867 - 01/05/22 02:32 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Sounds like things are looking up on this project!!!!

#1072868 - 01/05/22 03:42 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Great news...


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1072891 - 01/07/22 09:51 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Progress. Decided to go with chromemoly 1/2" rod ends. Thought about 7/16 but not much to gain by going a little smaller. Thought about 1/2" alum ends but decided to go overkill route and make steel 1/2" fit. Should be able to shorten the ends a little to make the link in the 3 1/2" range.
https://rodendsupply.com/shop/chromoly-steel-nylafiber-matrix-race-rod-ends/
Four rod ends and jamnuts should be here Tues.

Will need to find 4 rod end collars in the .250" size for the bottom mount, 2 for the top link for arm separation. Alum, steel and stainless steel I've seen. Would like stainless, not alum and steel if necessary, will modify to fit, thin, for the lower link rod end. Rod end ball width is .625", mount has a 1.125 opening, a .250" each side of the ball should be the ticket. If necessary will make them from rod stock laying around.

This past week not much physical done under the car. Just trying to get a bar and arm order ready to discuss with Race Bars. They have that 1 1/4" OD with a .625 ID bar in stock. Running the numbers with my 7 1/2" arm design comes out to 1146, an 8" arm is 1001. This in lbs/in. Was shooting for that 1000 range, near double the rate of the 36 mm. A 1.25 OD with .750" ID would be a better choice, a little shorter arm is then tolerable. Will check to see exactly when that size bar could be made.
Once a bar is in hand final arm design can be done.

Here's three swaybar rate calculators, they all are good at guessing at the rate. My preference is the Fred Puhn, which takes into account more variables.
Race Bars said they use the SwayAway at times.
http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Sway-Bar-Calculator.html
https://swayaway.com/tech-room/torsion-bar-wheel-rate-calculator/
https://www.addco.net/sway-bar-calculator/

Stopped at my welder friend's shop yesterday and discussed welding the arms. Had the 3/4" plywood arm made earlier in the week for him to actually see an exact duplicate of what we need to make in 3/4" steel. He was curious about the joinery of the 7.5 degree angle with a 26 degree bevel at one bend. 60 years of playing with wood teaches you something.

1 1/4" collars and rod end spacers will find paypal this weekend. Parts list is getting shorter. Oh, bolts, hate buying a pack of 5 ARP to use 2 bolts that i will need to shorten, and do it twice. Shoulder length of the bolt is different top and bottom of the link. Oh well.
Bob

#1072897 - 01/08/22 12:42 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Shoot for the bigger bar... Trust me, you'll want it eventually and there us no downside...


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1072912 - 01/09/22 07:16 AM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Rod ends showed up today, great service from Rod End Supply. Even threw in two microfiber monitor wipes in the box. Nice touch. My son thought they were to polish the pretty chrome plated chromemoly ends. No marking on the ends as far as manufacture or world of origin but they do look very nice. Time will tell.
With the M bottomed out in the F and a jamnut the center to center length is 3 3/8". This is shorter than expected and will be a plus to getting an arm level at ride height and helps in locating a landing spot on the LCA.

Weather here is lousy, ice tomorrow morning and very cold for most of next week. Will get to the shop tomorrow afternoon and throw together hoping my last arm model now that I have correct links to test fit. Need to feed the fossil fuel heater's tank 200 gallons this week, getting near empty. It's a gallon an hour there to stay warm when it's very cold so time there needs to be well spent, or not wasted watching TV.

Having trouble finding .250" rod end cone spacer, or washers, that aren't ridiculous in price or alum. Found McMaster has .250" washers in steel but 6 x 7 bucks each + ship is not reasonable. I can make them, have made them before. I have 5/8" OD x 1/2" ID stainless tube left over from the heater hose H project. Will cut some of that tomorrow to use in the interim. Need to know that the lower link bracket made the other day will work with these big rod ends.

The .625 ID, 1 1/4" OD bar is looking like the one that will get ordered. It should net 1146 on a 7 1/2" arm. Later if necessary could swap in a 1 1/4" solid bar and get to 1223. And I believe there is still room under the car to go a tad bigger, a solid 1.375" on 7 1/2" which would net 1790. Aside from price it's a simple swap to change bar to anything desired, 1800 down to even 500 with a 1" solid. The early target rate was 1000 or a little more.

Later
Bob

#1072969 - 01/16/22 05:50 AM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Got a little side tracked on the sway bar project this week but spent time looking for the necessary hardware to bolt it all together.

Was supposed to have minor short procedure surgery on Thurs but flunked my EKG and flunked the two nasal swabs, negatives on both of them. A trip to the cardio doctor Fri, he said the EKG was good, mis-read. But an ECHO and Stress test will be scheduled.
Wife to the dentist for a broken cap, 02 SS in for state emissions and safety inspection. Front pivot joint in the left LCA was junk.. Today replaced both the L and R LCAs with GM arms. 3 hrs for the first side. 3/4 hr for the second side. The 12 mm bolt on that bad LCA pivot uses a 55 Torx. I had every size up to 50 and a 60. Napa couldn't have one until tomorrow so i made one. A 10 mm hex wrench (Allen) donor, a carbide tool in the Dremel, allowed grooves to be cut between the points. Actually worked out great.

One of the 30 year old flood lights in the backyard went dark this past week. Spend a good bit of time trying not to buy a China replacement. I'm one of those old die-hard Sylvania bulb better quality guys, have bought hundreds of their bulbs of all different shapes and sizes and types. Even my local electrical supply now sells the crap Phillips, along with all the other home products asylums, REPO, BLOWS, ACE. Found two NOS Sylvania Halogen on the Fleebay, Done.
Just another little side track for the week.

Next week the bar and two arms will be ordered. The bar/mounts need to get fitted into the frame, tacked and make sure the bar and arm design work as planned. The arm to bar attachment area is another close fitting, frame clearance critical areas. It's time to have the bar installed now to insure the arms have a reason to be fabbed.

Have been shopping the nickel and dime parts to finish the install. Bolts and locknuts for the link ends and rod end safety washers, and 1 1/4" collars for the bar. Truly a dance today trying to keep that short list of parts under 100 bucks. A bolt is 6 bucks, a locknut is 6 bucks, the washers could be 5. Looking through the fastener suppliers is a trip through never land. Never thought some fancy locknuts could be 30+, a piece. ARP bolts i have bought dozens for odd projects. They ain't cheap no mo.
But as we all know now, if you wanna play, ya gotta pay.
Bob

#1072977 - 01/18/22 07:19 AM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Full speed ahead. Today finished ordering all the hardware for the bar install. ARP bolts, jetnuts, rod end safety washers, and 1 1/4" collars, almost ate two dimes at Paypal.
Tomorrow will get up the courage to call Race Bar and order the bar and two arms. Thinking most all the parts for the install will be sourced and in house in less than 10 days. Won't be able to use the no parts excuse.

For link bolts I wanted to use ARP because of the flanged 12 pt head on the bolt which will seat nicely against the safety washer, and the ability to chose the "grip length" (unthreaded) of the bolt to fit my needs. Had to buy a 1/2"-20 x 2.25" (1.00" grip length) and a 2.50" (1.25" grip) packs of 5 bolts from ARP. I looked for a long time at every source to get bolts in the specs I wanted and buy them individually, fruitless. In the end had to buy 10 black ARP bolts to get the 4 bolts I need, and they are not readily available in stainless, which I would have preferred. Thank goodness because the 10 black oxide bolts were only 62 bucks delivered. If they were stainless ARP it would be 89 bucks for the 4 bolts I need.
Talk about being nickel and dimed to death.
All that is behind me now, just pay off the Visa next month.
Progress.
Bob

#1072978 - 01/18/22 12:40 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 566
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You definitely leave no stone unturned Bob. It amazes me the price difference in parts alone. I have a price list from 2019 chevrolet performance catalog, just out of curiosity I searched the zz6 turn key to see the difference, $800 dollars and on backorder, then I searched numerous chevrolet performance crates and they were all on back order except for l31. I guess that's just the way of the world now, higher price and on backorder.

#1072981 - 01/18/22 05:46 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,549
SSLance Offline
10+ Year
SSLance  Offline
10+ Year
Member

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,549
Peoria, AZ
Lets get 'er done!! I'm excited for you Bob.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1072982 - 01/18/22 08:40 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,477
mmc427ss Online content
20+ Year
mmc427ss  Online Content
20+ Year
Member

Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,477
Pottstown, Pa
You do know that Bernie is but an hour's drive from me.
Bob

#1073019 - Yesterday at 04:55 AM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,477
mmc427ss Online content
20+ Year
mmc427ss  Online Content
20+ Year
Member

Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,477
Pottstown, Pa
Parts hostage.
The 1/2-20 Jetnuts showed up first, Pagasus. Exactly as expected and quality.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=MS21042

Yesterday the QA1 SG84 rod end safety washers showed up. They do measure .250" thickness, nice parts. Funny, bought off Ebay, shipped from Spohn Perf in Pa. A decade ago I met the Spohn's at Maple Grove. Made a trip to their factory to pick up rear LCAs and Steve and his father gave me the 10 dollar tour. Nice people, good people.
One washer/spacer on each side of the rod end in the lower link mount will be used. A crush final fit on the lower mount will take up the little bit of slop in the fit. I do find that they don't improve the rod ends usable max range of movement, May need to modify them down the road. Won't know until final mockup of the lower link location if bind is possible.

1 1/4" stainless collars expected next Monday. Already stamped China of their face, but another hard to find at any reasonable price. Probably one of those stainless steels that rust.

ARP bolts coming from Jegs, some time early next month is optimistic, stainless would be April. They may be stuck in a container out in the ocean, so I'm told. Don't need the link top or bottom bolts until final install.

Bought a new white paint marker yesterday for the frame chop. Pretty much have a plan of attack figured out. Just more of a PITA when you are limited by jackstand height. Need to have the new bar in hand to proceed with the cutting.

A bar and two arms in my hands has got a little difficult. Several phone calls back and forth and no closer to a delivery. I had heard a .625" ID bar was available, I hesitated to insure all the little nickel and dime parts could be bought, and delivered for the project. Now I'm told by another employee 7/8" is the choice, or solid 1 1/4".. Now waiting to talk to the owner again to figure out how to get what I need done, quickly.

I need the bar, a bar, to move forward.
Bob

#1073025 - Yesterday at 08:26 PM Re: Front sway bar project [Re: mmc427ss]  
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,477
mmc427ss Online content
20+ Year
mmc427ss  Online Content
20+ Year
Member

Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,477
Pottstown, Pa
The two 1 1/4" stainless double split collars showed up today, kinda. USPS dropped an almost empty bag, it did have a packing slip but no collars, The envelope end was torn open, and marks on the bag showed it was in a struggle somewhere. Gotta love Ebay and the USPS. Now the fight to get two more collars from somewhere.
Bob

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