This is a step by step-by-step account of how to install ATS Brembo brakes on your Monte SS or G-body. I call this the Brembo “Medium” Brake Kit because it will fit behind a 17 inch wheel, where as the CTS-V/Camaro SS/C7 Z51 Brembos will use the same mounting bracket but require a 14 inch rotor from the C7 Z51 Vette, which will not fit behind 17’s. I’m going to brake this install up into several posts.

Disclaimer: As with any install guide, you proceed at your own risk. Neither the author or montecarloss.com is responsible for any damage, injury or death that occurs because you did or did not follow this guide. This guide is offered for reference only and makes no claims about warranty, safety, performance, or serviceability. Take care when modifying safety critical systems like brake systems, Use common sense and work with safety in mind. Changing brake components may drastically change the stopping and handling behavior of your car in unforeseen ways. Test your work in a safe controlled environment before going onto the open road or track.

First, you will need the following items:
C7 conversion hubs from BigBrakeUpgrade.com - http://bigbrakeupgrade.com/product/camaro-ss-cts-v-conversion-hub/
Brembo converson brackets + hardware - http://bigbrakeupgrade.com/product/s-10-g-body-brembo-conversion-brackets/
ATS Caliper Front Left - PN 1722777 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9313828&cc=3307659
ATS Caliper Front Right - PN 1722587 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8327508&cc=3307659
2 Base C7 Corvette Front Rotors, such as Centric C-tec 12162146 -https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7464212&cc=3308852
2 new M10x1 banjo bolts (DO NOT REUSE YOUR STOCK BANJO BOLTS YOU WILL STRIP YOUR CALIPERS THEY ARE THE WRONG THREAD PITCH!)
A set of pads for the BASE C7 Corvette Corvette Stingray / 2010-2018 Camaro SS / Cadillac ATS with Brembo Brakes
Raybestos PN H5878A hardware kit for ATS/CTS/XTS calipers
ARP Long Wheel Studs - PN 100-7713 or Opt for the Long Stud upgrade with your hubs. (Scott at BBU.com does not recommend pressing out the 12.8mm knurl Dorman studs and replacing them with .509 knurl studs because the hub may crack. Do so at your own risk)
A wheel spacer that will provide the correct amount of clearance with your wheel/caliper - I'll show you how to measure in a bit. An 18mm spacer worked for me.
You will need at MINIMUM a 17 inch wheel to clear this installation. (Though it may work with JL9 brakes on 16 inch GTA wheels with a very large wheel spacer.)

Optional Items
Belltech 2 inch drop spindles - PN 2100
New Bearings + Seals
Russel Stainless brake lines - PN 692100

Specialty Tools
M12x1.75 Tap
10.5mm or 13/32 drill bit
Tap Wrench
12MM hex head wrench or socket
10mm hex head wrench or socket
Tie Rod removal tool
Ball joint removal tool.

Shop supplies:
Wheel Bearing Grease
Red Loctite (727)
Brake Fluid (I recommend a good quality synthetic DOT4)
2-3 cans of Brake Kleen
Rubber Gloves
Plastic bags
Shop Towels
4 M14 split washers - CRITICAL

The first big step will be to remove your spindles, If you have purchased new spindles for this project skip to part B, then go back to part A for the removal of your old spindles, or follow the direction that came with your drop spindles. I suppose you could modify them on your car, but I prefer to do this in a vice on a work bench.

Part A. Spindle removal process

1. Jack up front of the car, so that the front wheels are 3-5 inches off the ground, place jack stands under the frame and lower the car onto the jack stands.

2. Remove center caps and lugnuts
3. Remove caliper by removing the two calipers pins and retain with wire making sure not to let weight of the caliper pull on the brake hose. (if you have purchased new lines, now would be a good time to spray the fitting that joins the rubber hose to the hard line with some good penetrating oil)
4. With the caliper removed, take the dust cap off with a pair of pliers

5. Then remove the cotter pin and crown nut. pull the old rotor off, set a side your old bearings in a clean plastic bag if you plan on reusing them.

6. Next, remove the dust shield by removing the three 11mm bolts that hold it on.

7. Remove the nut on your tie rod end and remove it from the spindle using your preferred method. I have a tie rod separator that works wonderfully.

8. Place the jack under the lower control arm and slightly compress the front suspension.
9. remove the cotter pin the from the upper ball joint and loosen, but do not completely remove the nut, using your preferred method of ball joint stud removal, detach the upper ball-joint taper from the spindle.
10. remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint and loosen but do not completely remove the nut, using your preferred method of ball joint stud removal detach the lower ball joint taper from the spindle. I prefer hitting the area on the spindle around the ball joint stud with a BFH
11. Remove the crown nut from the upper control arm completely and use extreme caution while you slowly lower the jack until there is no longer any spring load on the lower control arm.
12. Remove the crown nut from the lower control arm, detach the spindle from the ball stud using any method you prefer and remove the spindle

13. Repeat on the other side.

Now that your spindles are off the car, you can hold them in your vice for the next step, modification.

Part B: Spindle Modification.

Now that you have your spindles off you will have to modify them to install the brackets which will hold the fixed Brembo Calipers. Take your time and work carefully keeping in mind the tools and materials you are working with, breaking a tap or cutting into the wrong place on the spindle could me that you've ruined it and will have to get a new one. However if you're like me and buy a 15/32 drill bit instead of the required 13/32 drill bit you can always helicoil them like I did to fix your mistake.

First, you will need to drill and tap two holes in your spindle.
1. Using a 13/32 drill bit or 10.5mm drill bit enlarge these two holes on your spindle.

This is best done with a drill press, but I managed to get by with a vice and a hand drill.
2. Using a GOOD QUALITY M12x1.75mm tap, tap both of these holes. Turn the tap back one quarter turn after a half turn to break the chips off. Use lots of cutting oil. Do not use a cheap poor quality tap here, if it breaks off in the hole you will need to buy new spindles or find a way to extract it.

Once the holes are tapped and cleaned, we will need to cut some material off your spindle.

The factory GM Metric brake calipers mount on "ears" that are cast into the spindle themselves. These ears are in the way of your new calipers and will have to be cut off.

Here is a basic pattern of the line you will need to cut. For this, I used a combination of the following tools, a Sawzall with a blade designed for thick metal for the main cuts, a hacksaw for any small delicate cuts, and an angle grinder to clean up the surface.

1. First cut off the "ears" just past the bolt holes you tapped, i did this part with the Sawzall. (Please use all necessary Personal Protective Equipment when using hand and power tools)
2. Next cut or grind around the ears following the general shape of I provided above.
3. Clean up any rough edges, then test fit the caliper bracket with the two M12 bolts, and make sure that there is clearance around the inner caliper bolts for both the M14 bolts and a split washer.
Here is the drilled, tapped and cut cut spindle.

And a close up of the contour I followed

4. Repeat on the other side.

Next, I'd suggest putting a coat of paint on your spindles and hubs
If you ordered new spindles, they will be covered rust preventative oil, if you have old spindles they are probably covered in years of road grime. Clean them up with a wire brush and some Brake Kleen
Your hubs will come bare metal from BigBrakeUpgrade.com, hit them with some Brake Kleen, and let them dry. I removed my studs prior to paint, but if you don't want to go through the hassle you can just mask yours off. Be sure to stuff some paper towel in the bores as not to paint the bearing races and make sure to mask off the machined area of your spindle before paint.

I hit my spindles and hubs with some flat black Rustoleum for some basic corrosion protection.


Let them dry completely before the next step.

Part C2: Spindle and bracket assembly.

1. Place your spindle in your vice or on a hard flat surface.
2. Take your caliper bracket and place it over the holes on your spindle
3. Put a generous amount of red Loctite (727) on the threads of your M12 cap screws
4. Install the fasteners into the holes you tapped and torque to 85 ft/lbs
5. Repeat on the other side.

This should be your finished product.


Now that we've modified your spindles, we will need to assemble them and do some work to the hubs that mate to them.

Part D: Spindle Installation

Now that you've modified your spindles and installed the brackets, its time to re-install them on the car and then prep and install your hubs.


1. Place the spindle on the lower ball joint and install the crown nut. Re-position your spring and using your jack, push the spindle up until you are able to put the top ball joint stud into the spindle and install the upper crown nut.
2. Torque the upper stud to 52 ft/lbs and the lower to 70 ft/bs. Install cotter pins
3. Put your tie rod end back into the spindle and torque to 30 ft/bs. Install cotter pin.

Your spindle is now installed and it is time to mount brake components.

Part D1. Hub Prep.

If you did not order your hubs with extended studs here is how I removed and installed the new ones. Scott from BigBrakeUpgrade does NOT recommend that you install .509 knurl studs this way because it may crack the hub. I did not need the whole 3.25 inch ARP stud for my installation, it would have been safer, cheaper, and easier in the long run to let Scott install the long ARP studs at his shop. Install .509 knurled studs at your own risk.

I ran into the issue where after mock-up I needed more stud length. BigBrakeUpgrade.com will ship you hubs with 3-inch studs, but I wanted the 3.25 inch ARP studs.
Here is a comparison between the old and new studs


To remove the old studs:
1. Grab a large socket, place it behind the knurled stud end on the back of the hub, place the whole assembly in your vice and squeeze until the stud pops out.
2. Repeat 9 times for each stud.
To install the new studs:
1. Push the longer stud through the hub from the back so that the knurling will go into the hub.
2. Place a large stack of washers onto the stud, the thread a lug nut on to the stud.
3. Hit it with an impact until the stud is flush into the hub on the backside.

Finished product.


Part D2. Dust Shield Prep - The factory dust shields will not work with the larger brakes, but you will still want the inner portion for sealing purposes. So we will have to cut that out.
1. Cut the center of your dust shields using a good pair of tin snips.

2. Shape your inner portion of the shield so that it clears all of the new larger brake components. it should end up looking something like this:

3. Use the one you have trimmed to trace a pattern onto the other dust shield and cut it out so you have two near identical dust shield inners
4. Install using one of the 11m bolts to your spindle. This will put a sealing surface for your hub seal to ride on.


Part D3 – Time to get greasy! Pack your bearings.
1.Put on some gloves
1a. If you are re-using your old bearings, I recommend you wash all of the old grease out with brake kleen to inspect them properly and make sure that there is no pitting, brinelling, or corrosion on them
2. Take a big ol dallop of good wheel bearing grease, I prefer Superlube. Get the grease into the palm of your hand.
3. Push the bearing into grease, forcing grease into the spaces between the rollers and the cage.
4. Once greased put the bearing into the hub and install your hub seals. (you can re-use your old ones if they are in good shape and you pull them from your old rotors)
5. Speaking of bearings, please use a good quality wheel bearing, a lot of the cheap Chinese bearings use poor quality steel which can be anything from troublesome to flat-out dangerous. I used a high quality NSK bearing inner bearing that was originally used for a high speed machining spindle application that I managed to score while I worked there, and a Timken Outer bearing made in Poland.

Part D5 – Install the hubs to your spindles
1. Take the hub with the inner bearing, and the seal installed (the seal should hold it relatively captive) and slide it over the spindle pin until it is home.
2. Take your packed outer bearing (the smaller of the two) and slide it into the end of the hub over the spindle pin.
3. Re-install your crown nut, ensure that there is no axial play with your hub on your spindle, but that the hub rotates freely and without binding. There may be a torque spec for this, but I have always done this by feel. Once you have everything appropriately secured, install a cotter pin as an anti-rotation device for the castle nut/crown nut
4.Install the outer dust cap, I did this with a big socket and a rubber mallet.

Now that all of this is done, its time to start installing your Rotors and Calipers.

Now that your spindles and hubs are re-installed, we can get to the fun part, mounting the larger rotors and Brembo calipers.

E1 - Installing the Rotor.
1. Place the rotor over the hub, making sure that you align the small retention bolt hole on the hub with the one on the rotor.
2. Install the small bolt included in the hub kit with a 4mm hex head allen wrench.


E2 - Installing the Caliper
1. You may need to file the casting parting line on your caliper to make room for the head of the 12mm bolt you used to install the brackets.

2. take your M14 cap screws and place one split lock washer over it. The only purpose of this is to prevent the threads from sticking out past the caliper and contacting the rotor.

This is only an issue with the 12.6 inch rotors and JL9 brakes. (and Scott will be offering a 30mm bolts in kits that are using the JL9 brakes in the future) Install the upper bolt through the bracket on your spindle and into the caliper, get this only finger tight to start. then install the second bolt finger tight.
3. Torque each of the bolts to 33 ft lbs, then add an additional 90 degrees of angle. (This is the GM torque spec for these calipers)

4. This step will be a little messy. I used a 1/4 inch impact with an 11mm socket to quickly zing the old banjo bolt out of the old caliper, then grab new washers and the new banjo bolt (DO NOT USE THE OLD BANJO BOLT IN THE NEW CALIPER IT WILL RUIN THE CALIPER) and quickly run it into the caliper with a socket wrench. The stock line is a little contorted, but seems to clear.

I would recommend using a replacement stainless line. I was unable to install mine during the install due to the fact there are 32 years of rust on the brake lines and I did not have a torch to heat the old lines to remove them. RESUSE THE OLD LINES AT YOUR OWN RISK

E3 - Pad installation
1. Spray the rotor down with brake kleen to clean off any grease or residue from handling them.
2. Insert your pads into the spaces on top of the calipers
3. Feed in the the top pin half way capturing the inner pad, put the bridge spring under it and then capture the outer pad before seating it in the front side of the caliper.
4. Push down on the bridge spring and feed the pin capturing the inner pad, the bridge spring and the outer pad, seat it into the front side of the caliper.
5. Tap the pins until they completely seated with a soft mallet.

E4 - Brake Bleeding
These Brembo calipers are a little different to bleed the first time than some brakes, and dont follow the same logic that you'd follow when bleeding a whole system.
1. using an 11mm wrench bleed the INNER piston bank on the passenger side of the car.
2. using an 11mm wrench bleed the OUTER piston bank on the passenger side of the car.
3. using an 11mm wrench bleed the INNER piston bank on the driver side of the car.
4. using an 11mm wrench bleed the OUTER piston bank on the driver side of the car.
For your next bleed you can bleed them in any order. this just helps get big pockets of air out first.

E5 - How to measure for a wheel spacer.
You will need a few pieces of data in order to properly measure the wheel spacer that you need.
1. Measurement from the disc face to the face of the caliper.

2. Measurement from the disc face to the mounting point of the rotor

3. the difference from the wheel mounting surface, to the inner spoke face. (make sure you use the shortest point point as some spokes are curved)



Here's a diagram with some approximate values in mm.


E6 - wrap up
1. install your wheel spacer
2. install your wheel, torque to spec.



Be sure to bed your pads to your rotors following your manufacturer recommendations.

Congratulations, you're done.

If you have any questions feel free to reach out to me in DM or reply to my initial post in the rolling chassis section and ill try to answer your questions.

is there a conversion for converting the rear axle to disc?

I came across this quite by accident, but this is an absolutely first-rate DIY tutorial, Travis! Thanks so much! So how do the new brakes perform? Also any idea how much weight this adds per wheel?

Best,
MAP

I'm not sure how I missed this either, but it's a great set of instructions. Well laid out, etc. Good job on the write up!

MAP, no i didn't take measurements. I'd imagine it adds some weight overall. I think every component is heavier than what came off of there. My main concern was eliminating brake fade. Even the stock G-body brakes will stop you from speed once or twice, but around a road course, they dont hold up.

Not sure how I missed this but it a great write up.