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#1071666 - 08/18/21 01:21 AM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Brent you need to add in 0 bucks an hour for your labor. That something we all take for granted. Thankfully it's that labor of love that's one of the rewards, doing it your self.
Again, welcome to the MMC.

At a car show last weekend i was approached, nope, not for sale, yet. Wow, what would that number be? At a dollar an hour, need to get 20K for labor. And at 10 cents on the dollar return for all the parts, another 7K. Gotta love playing with cars.

Don't send that rain here. I spent a week playing golf in Lenoir, TN and they had some really, really nice back roads for a cruise, at speed. Smokey mountains in your backyard. Tell the weatherperson you need to drive that car to break it in, two nice weeks would be good.
Bob

#1071670 - 08/18/21 02:08 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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I cant remember if I touched on it in this thread but I ended up adding idle bypass air to the ccc and thats all it needed and it cleared up all my issues with the carb leaning out during idle. At this point I've done quite a bit of tuning and feel that I'm pretty close on the carb. Also the smaller pulley on the alternator helped with the power issues at idle when running everything. But the whole time the manual would have solved it all, lol.

Last edited by 88ssBrent; 08/18/21 02:12 PM.
#1071671 - 08/18/21 02:36 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Brent - Meant to ask you earlier - how much smaller is the current pulley (model etc?)
thanks,
Gordon

#1071673 - 08/18/21 03:03 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Gordon, hope you are doing well, any luck on getting the cam changed on your car? I will have to look at my notes on the oem pulley size bit here is the pulley I purchased. If I remember correctly the oem is a 5 rib and this is a 6 rib 1 3/4". I aligned the belt and tightened like normal and everything works fine.

https://marchperformance.com/aluminum-alternator-serpentine-pulley-110-08.html

Here is a picture of the pulley compared to oem.

[Linked Image]


Last edited by 88ssBrent; 08/18/21 03:27 PM.
#1071678 - 08/18/21 08:33 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Brent, are you going to put the original pulley back on since the idle speed will now remain a constant that you control?

#1071684 - 08/18/21 10:18 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Probably give it a try and see what happens.

#1071714 - 08/20/21 03:19 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Nothing but rain here for the last few days, got some clear skies and put another 20 miles on it last night. It sure is a lot more fun to drive now and with my engine combination that Kevin (Badss) dialed in on my 305 the trans really makes it shine as far as fun factor.

My ac compressor has not been kicking off and air was only coming out at around 50°so I did a little testing and I went through the flow chart in my gm manual. Said that I was over charged or a restriction in orfice tube. I had some extra cans of 134 so just to do it I discharged the system, put the vacuum pump (loaner from parts store) on for 30 minutes and sucked it down to around 29" vacuum. Let it sit for an hour needle didnt move. Weighed in 2.6 lbs (80% of r12 charge) of 134a. Got the charge in and compressor was still not kicking off low side stayed at 40 psi and high side was at 275 psi, definitely high. Outside temp was in the low 80's. Temp coming out of vent was around 45°. Ac controls blower on high ac selector set to normal. Fans were in failsafe mode so they were set to high speed. Im really not sure when this started I did notice temp was not up to par, didn't notice the compressor didnt kick off until Bob started digging into his system and I realized I hadn't heard it kicking off.

Hopefully getting close to cooler weather so I will probably ride it out for a while and do a upgrade come next spring. Parallel flow condenser, barrier hoses, variable orfice tube, new accumulator/drier, and maybe look at other compressor options. After my latest transmission upgrade I dont think my wife would be too thrilled if I said I was going to throw another $800-$1000 on my cars ac. She never really says anything but im not willing to push my luck, lol.

A few projects that I do have coming that I have all the parts for is build a dual intake air filter, I have a dui distributor tuned for my engine combo and a Bob built non ccc quadrajet that im going to give a try. For the rest of nice weather im probably just going to drive and enjoy. I still have full plans to dyno the 305 once the cold gets here and see what I can get out of the little 305 just too have a number.

Last edited by 88ssBrent; 08/20/21 03:21 PM.
#1071725 - 08/21/21 01:06 PM Re: 88ssBrent's 305 build and tkx 5 speed! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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At a cars and coffee cruise in at downtown Lenior City this morning.

[Linked Image]

#1071727 - 08/21/21 02:57 PM Re: 88ssBrent's 305 build and tkx 5 speed! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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A little video of my hooker exhaust with the tkx, im not really getting on it maybe running it up to 3500-4000 r.p.m.

https://youtube.com/shorts/msBz6P668cU?feature=share

#1071728 - 08/21/21 03:36 PM Re: 88ssBrent's 305 build and tkx 5 speed! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Sounds great!

How does it sound at idle?

#1071732 - 08/21/21 08:40 PM Re: 88ssBrent's 305 build and tkx 5 speed! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Sorry I missed you I was in Oak Ridge at cars for canines car show. I plan on being at Napa know how auto fest Sept 4 at foothills mall may see you there. Glad you are enjoying your 5 speed.

#1071754 - 08/23/21 12:25 AM Re: 88ssBrent's 305 build and tkx 5 speed! [Re: CM1SCW]  
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Originally Posted by T5montecarlo
Sounds great!

How does it sound at idle?


I think its got a great idle, video really doesn't do it justice. Of course I'm not one to like a real loud car.

https://youtu.be/68evkfpB7LQ

Originally Posted by CM1SCW
Sorry I missed you I was in Oak Ridge at cars for canines car show. I plan on being at Napa know how auto fest Sept 4 at foothills mall may see you there. Glad you are enjoying your 5 speed.


Not a real big crowd at cars in coffee, I almost went to the cars and canines but I wasn't sure how many would be there. Looks like it had a good crowd.

#1071756 - 08/23/21 12:42 AM Re: 88ssBrent's 305 build and tkx 5 speed! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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I also need to add that im at 260 miles now, me and my wife have took 2 pretty good back road trips the last 2 evenings. The car sure is a lot more fun in the twisties and now I'm a little past half way on break in.

#1071763 - 08/23/21 10:21 AM Re: 88ssBrent's 305 build and tkx 5 speed! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Yeah, there was well over 100 cars and a good crowd of people. Large variety of vehicles.

#1071806 - 08/25/21 06:09 PM Re: 88ssBrent's 305 build and tkx 5 speed! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Just too start figuring and planning what is everyone's experience with different rearends? It will more than likely be January or February before I can even think of spending the money but planning never hurt anything. I will actually start a new thread on this in drivetrain section as it won't be lost in my build thread and hopefully more eyes will see it.

http://www.montecarloss.com/communi...flat&Number=1071807&#Post1071807

Last edited by 88ssBrent; 08/25/21 07:25 PM.
#1071809 - 08/25/21 07:49 PM Re: 88ssBrent's 305 build and tkx 5 speed! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Brent - you are assuming we are not all hanging on each of your entries? Lost indeed!

I'm running a 383 with AFRs and getting 535 HP / 490 FtLb at the flex plate and have a significantly upgraded 200-4R (Janis Transmission).
I discussed rear options for a one time upgrade with Henderson Driveline & Axle - like Janis they are very much used by serious/pros.
He put in a 3" DOM drive shaft w/ 1350 & 3R non-greaseable Spicer U-joints. They talked me down from 3.5" or aluminum.
I asked about 12 bolt or 9" but they strongly advised sticking with the 10 bolt case for cost and time.
Nice because they got parts in advance and I was able to drive in for the day and wait.
Put in a 3.73:1 Eaton - Detroit Truetrac and Moser 28 spline axles. New bearings and seals too.
Unless I am running super stickies on the track regularly, they say this is more than enough.
I'm not used to folks talking me out of spending money - So many good ideas on this site...?

BTW - Thanks for asking about updates. Got the triangulated chassis brace (SC&C) and new front antisway bar (1-3/8" QA1 hollow) installed along with a new heater core and evaporator coil. The Comp Cam for the 383 which Kevin (BadSS - He's always volunteering help!) modeled/speced is in and the engine is back in place. Expect a very minor loss in high end HP. Lots more low end performance and with significant inc in vacuum (Kevin's est from 5 to 13+) so the vacuum pump is now gone too. Should make for a much more streetable ride. Wife is more supportive as this will make the ride much quieter so she can come along and monitor me??? Weak justification, yes, but everything helps. Finishing replumbing and prep for break-in. Been a long 9 months of purgatory with labor issues in the shop. I do what I can to help, but you are not here to do the heavy lifting so its slow.....

Thanks and keep up the posts....
Gordon

#1071810 - 08/25/21 10:50 PM Re: 88ssBrent's 305 build and tkx 5 speed! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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First off Janis does good work as far as I've heard, one of my friends is a grand national guy and they all swear by Janis when it comes to the 200-4r.

Interesting that is your setup, my original plans were to stick with the 10 bolt, use the Detroit truetrac, stick with my current gm 3.73 ring gear and pinion gear, 28 spline axles, differential cover with main cap jacking bolts and weld up the axle tubes to the center section. As with most things the more I searched it seemed that approach was frowned upon due to main cap movement and teeth not being strong enough on ring gear and pinion. Of course that is reasearching on google and other forums and there is no telling what they were trying to do and you are hearing this from professionals so I will take that as an option. To add to the above I have 1330 and 3r non greasable Spicer u joints. Only the 1330 on output shaft and 3r at the rearend but using stock driveshaft just to get by at the moment.

Gordon, im glad your getting close to having your car back on the road with the upgrades it will be much more enjoyable. Any time you can find a way to justify parts in some way with your wife its a good thing. I've said many times on here that my wife has never really said anything about the money I spend but I know where the line is. If I were close to you or any other member I would be glad to help even though a lot of the times im learning as I go as seen on this forum.

#1071951 - 09/05/21 09:05 PM Re: 88ssBrent's 305 build and tkx 5 speed! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Took the car for a long ride today, the plan was to head up over the dragon at deals gap (318 corners, 11 miles). Its about 30 minutes away from my house, once I headed up 129s it was obvious that it was just to crowded and not what I planned so I cut off 129 and headed across the foothills parkway towards the smoky mountains. Hardly any traffic, about 15 degrees cooler, plenty of turns for some spirited driving , and nice views .
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Last edited by 88ssBrent; 09/06/21 12:27 AM.
#1072078 - 09/21/21 05:24 PM Re: 88ssBrent's 305 build and tkx 5 speed! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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I may regret my decision down the road but I ran across a 350 roller block for a good deal that im dropping off at machine shop to get checked today so as of now the rearend is put on hold and my new winter project will be building another engine.

Plan is to build a 396 sbc, it should make for a interesting combo and the 396 ss just has a nice ring to it. Original plan was either a 383 or 400 or above sbc. Building a 400 gets up there quite a bit in price and it seems like everyone goes the 383 route. After talking to Kevin he mentioned the 396 option and I liked it. To squeeze it in a stock block it will take a certain combo of parts but it won't need anymore clearance than a 383.

The plan as of now is 3.875" stroke crank with 2.000" rod journals, callie compstar h beam rods. Going with that combination you should not have to clearance any more than a 3.750 rod. Looking for idle to 5500 rpm power, should be a fun little package. Lots of planning to do and as with with most stuff the parts are going to take some time to get.

#1072090 - 09/23/21 10:49 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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I thought that you might like the idea of going with a "Chevy sized" cubic inch engine!! grin

Now, the question is will you keep it in sleeper mode OR badge it?
[Linked Image]


Last edited by BadSS; 09/24/21 04:41 AM.
#1072099 - 09/26/21 01:11 AM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Probably not going to do any emblems, maybe keep it looking stock and do something subtle with the air cleaner decal.

#1072111 - 09/28/21 01:17 AM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Here is a list of parts that Kevin helped me come up with that I plan to use. Just the rotating assembly is all that is included this far, haven't decided on rings yet. A rough estimate should be around $2500 including the rings. It does not include machine work.


EngineQuest RSH350 1986 and Newer S/B Chevy Rear Main Seal Conversion.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/EngineQuest-RSH350-1986-and-Newer-S-B-Chevy-Rear-Main-Seal-Conversion,32393.html

EngineQuest AT350 Small Block Chevy Rear Main Alignment Tool
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/EngineQuest-AT350-Small-Block-Chevy-Rear-Main-Alignment-Tool,32419.html

ARP 134-5401 - ARP Main Stud Kits
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-5401

Clevite Engine Parts MS-909H - Clevite H-Series Main Bearings
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-ms909h

Clevite Engine Parts CB-745HN - Clevite H-Series Rod Bearings
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cle-cb745hn

4-350-3875-6000-20LW SCAT SBC F43 LIGHTWEIGHT 4340 FORGED STEEL CRANKSHAFT
https://www.cnc-motorsports.com/4-3...weight-4340-forged-steel-crankshaft.html

Callies Performance CSA6000CS2A2AH - Callies Compstar Connecting Rods
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cpi-a6000cs2a2ah

DSS Racing 8153-4030 - D.S.S. SX-Series Forged Pistons
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dms-8153-4030



Last edited by 88ssBrent; 09/28/21 01:22 AM.
#1072112 - 09/28/21 04:14 AM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Not familiar with that rear main seal conversion. The seal kit's alignment tool i saw was alum, that one is plastic. Curious how all that comes together, where's the seal?
It's been years since shopping for those hard parts so maybe things have changed. Why not just put a one piece crank in and save the money on the kit. All the forged stuff has gone up in price, hopefully the quality has moved the same way.
16cc dish on that piston, are you buying another set of heads? looking close to 11:1 at .00 deck height.
Kevin at what point does compression height become an oil ring problem? Those pistons will be 1.062" with a 6" rod. I know on my 4" stroke compression height is 1.020" with a 6" rod and i cringed when the oil rings went on. A special support is used when the oil ring gets into the piston pin area. I always thought that was why this engine uses a little more oil than it should.

New block has mechanical fuel pump location?
Bob

#1072114 - 09/28/21 01:07 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Eagle makes a 1-piece rear main seal for a 350 and 3.875 stroke.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-435338756000

Have you compared building to buying a crate engine?
https://blueprintengines.com/produc...tyle-longblock-aluminum-heads-roller-cam

#1072117 - 09/28/21 07:43 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build! [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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I assume they changed the tool for a easier and cheaper product to produce. I couldn't find the aluminum one but then again I didnt search real hard, right now this is all my "draft". Here is an older article using this exact conversion. Also it seems to be well thought of by many on the speedtalk forum.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/rear-seal-adapter-for-chevy-small-blocks/amp#aoh=16328423002776&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&amp_tf=From%20%251%24s

The only crank made that is made with 3.875 stroke and 2.000" rod journals is a 2 piece. It seems to be a hard package to squeeze in and the smaller rod journal gives you an extra .100" due to the rod body being smaller. Here is a quote off a thread on yellowbullet forum concerning the clearance.

"the compstar H beam rod will clear 3.875 stroke in a 350 block. You would be even better with a 2.00 rod journal and the compstar small journal rod which has a smaller outside dimension than the std large journal rod. The standard stroke notch I do for a 3.750 eagle H beam rod clears the 3.875 compstar large journal rod with no additional work. U will hit water with 3.875 and a regular eagle or scat rod."

Concerning the price of forged stuff its went up a lot in the last year. The gm ht383 shortblock has went up from $3000 to $4200 in just 2 years. Ive seen the blueprint 396 but I have to go with their cam and other components I would not want. This is going to be a build where over time I can add power as I feel I need more by adding better heads and intake.

I will use my heads, roller rockers, intake, and other components from the 305. With the 56cc tfs heads using a fel pro 1044 (4.200" bore, .051" compressed) and the piston .005" in the hole I should be around 10.6:1, once I go to 64cc heads using a cometic c5246-036 (4.100" bore, .036" compressed) I will be around 10.2:1. If the tfs heads really flow the numbers they say it should be close to 500 ft/lbs around 4200r.p.m. and close to 460 h.p. at 5600 r.p.m. while still maintaining 16.5" vacuum.

The block does not have fuel pump provisions so that is another issue im working on now and reading up on. Kevin has helped me on gathering all the data and getting a parts list together. Once again this is just my rough draft so no telling where this might end up when all said and done.

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