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#1069616 - 02/20/21 01:30 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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88ssBrent Offline
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At this point I'm not sure whats going on with the heads from trick flow. Last week still waiting on retainers. Heads were supposed to ship last Friday or earlier this week. Not heard a thing. Emailed yesterday to see where we are. Spring is getting closer and closer, atleast the whole fireplace project is done and the wife is happy. Now I'm getting more anxious about getting the car ready for upcoming year. A few of the shows and cruise ins are already canceled. Looks like autox is still on but at this point not sure I'll make the first one as I had hoped. I would like to get some decent miles on engine first before trying to push it.

Last edited by 88ssBrent; 02/20/21 01:34 PM.
#1069618 - 02/20/21 02:07 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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Lenoir City, TN
I am with you. riffey's is close to initial start up of my car hope fully in a week or two i'll get her back. Ready to see how she runs.

#1069664 - 02/26/21 06:24 AM Re: 88ssBrent's Build [Re: 88ssBrent]  
Joined: Jan 2000
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mmc427ss Offline
20+ Year
mmc427ss  Offline
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Pottstown, Pa
While impatiently waiting to get heads back on the shortblock couple questions.
Is the carb ready to go back on? And what did you end up using for choke pull-off, sec rods and hanger. If i remember you pull the carb apart and threw some gaskets in and some Ruggles parts. What sec rods and hanger are in the carb now. Carb needs to be done and ready to bolt on.

Did you check out the dist, connections, internal wires, and endplay. Most of those Delco dist had to much endplay, maybe .030", shimming the gear drive can reduce that to .010-.012". Setting endplay can reduce ignition timing change, wear on the rotating parts. Just a common adjustment on Delco dist, endplay check.

Torque converter? First flex plates can be a problem. Double check for any cracks at the mounting flange, Also inspect the ring gear. A new SFI flex plate isn't that expensive.
Are you installing a higher stall converter? I believe the original stall was 2100, upping that to high 20s would be a plus without any real negatives. Just help the little mouse get out of the hole a little quicker.

Did you replace the front and rear crank seals? The one piece on those engines is actually a decent setup, much better than the old 2 piece. Changing rear seal is easy and insurance. Timing cover crank seal can be seapers even when new, also check the new chain doesn't rub the cover. Later years SBC went to the plastic front cover with the one piece oil pan gasket. When the oil pan goes back on paying attention to the corners of the gasket and super clean everything and RTV a little in each corner. The leaks on those one piece gaskets are at the 4 corners. For RTV sealers tried many, use the GM for those pan areas and intake manifold, it's gray. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-88864346
Also like the GM https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-10-2024 for the bolts that need sealant, head and intake manifold. If you use new head bolts that come with sealant on the threads, Dorman for one, judiciously apply more to insure 100% seal of head bolts. Been there done that.

Lucky you, the car is so low mileage that many things are not even broke in yet but are after all 35 years old. The P/S hoses are one of those things. If you replace the high pressure hose on the P/S you can eliminate that switch on the steering box that turns off the A/C compressor if the pressure in the P/S system goes high. That happens when you hold the steering full lock one direction and pump pressure goes high, engine rpm slow down due to extra pump load, the switch turns the A/C compressor off until pressure goes down again. That was something GM had to do for Grandma in the parking lot.
Edelmann makes the necessary hose, bolt in, eliminates the switch, EDELMANN 71074, used on the non A/C cars. Edelmann hoses were good stuff several years ago, USA, who knows now. Rickauto says 7 bucks, wow.

Motor mounts. If your's are still in good condition, not oiled, not cracked or separated reuse them. Poly motor mounts will add harshness and more vibration feel into the steering wheel. Motor mount and steering box are side by side. The aftermarket rubber mounts are less than 20 bucks a pair, but i question quality. Bought Anchor mounts and looked at them, hmmm, definitely cheaper. Why am I putting 500/500 on these mounts with launching in mind. Was lucky enough to get one of the last GM sets before they went overseas,. #22188497, list price is 137, each! So reuse your mounts if possible. Ran the GM mounts for a few year. In search of wheel hop problems change to black Energy poly mounts, yep, noticed the difference in the steering wheel. Doesn't help the steering intermediate shaft has no dampening now.

Always a good idea to have the radiator tested. The G rads I was told were thin to start with and that's why the original 86 rad was to his shop for core leaks twice. The third time it leaked a new copper/brass 4 core was bought, small company up where all the lakes freeze, dirt track guys were using his rad, more durable to take the punishment.. Got 20 years on that rad now, soon time to service it again, cooking, cleaning, pressure testing and a light fresh coat of rad paint The evap get a cleaning at that time too. Lots of winged stuff get in there.

Bored in suburbia.
Bob

#1069669 - 02/26/21 06:36 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build [Re: 88ssBrent]  
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88ssBrent Offline
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88ssBrent  Offline
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Friendsville,Tn
So, I typed out a long detailed response and while keying in the last paragraph I accidently hit the back button while going to look for a link and erased everything, doah! So the short not very detailed version.

Went through carb and replaced oem choke pulloff with Cliffs. Put about 300 miles on carb before removing engine and everything was working good. Oem K hanger, and just put the DA secondary rods in. Cliff felt thats what my combo would need.

Distributor was working good when removed but I did take it apart and look through everything and all looked well. I didnt think about end play I will definitely look into it.

Going to stick with oem flex plate and stall. I did look at the flex plate mounting a week or 2 ago and all looked good. I will give it another good inspection before i install now that you have brought it up. Stall on my car seems to be around 2200 r.p.m.

After talking with Kevin and inspecting rear seal we decide if not broke dont fix it. No leaks and all looks good. Checked timing chain clearance without gasket, did not hear or see any signs of clearance issues. I did replace the front seal. Cover had surface rust so I took to bare metal, primer, then low gloss black and put new seal in. Will look into the above mentioned rtv. If it works good for you it will work for me. Went with new arp head and intake bolts and just got the arp thread sealant. Hopefully a good product.

Ps switch to ac does get on my nerves. Hoses look top notch so I will stay with the oem for time being.

Factory motor mounts are in good shape and drivers side mount was trimmed a little for header clearance so I will stay with them.

When I purchased the car the only thing was a small leak in the radiator. At the time I purchased a 3 row brass/copper radiator so the radiator is only 3 years old. At that time I sprayed out the evaporator. So hopefully I'm all good there. That reminds me of something. When I replaced the radiator I decided I wanted to refinish the top airbox plate due to some paint peeling from water getting under it. That has to be the worst piece ever to try to remove and the one bolt behind the nose is a bear to get to. I said a lot of not so good words. Off topic but it was frustrating.

Bob, thank you for bringing the topics up and its greatly appreciated. I take your advice serious. The knowledge you and Kevin have on these cars is impressive.

Last edited by 88ssBrent; 02/26/21 07:21 PM.
#1069681 - Yesterday at 06:07 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build [Re: mmc427ss]  
Joined: May 2000
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BadSS Offline
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BadSS  Offline
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Posts: 1,770
Pearl, MS, 39208
Originally Posted by mmc427ss
For RTV sealers tried many, use the GM for those pan areas and intake manifold, it's gray. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-88864346
Also like the GM https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-10-2024 for the bolts that need sealant, head and intake manifold.

I never used the GM RTV, been using the Ultra Black since it came out. Seem to remember the first sensor safe RTV (that I could get around hear anyway) was blue or maybe copper - can't be sure other than I didn't like the color - lol. One of the best engine builders around here uses "Pro Seal" RTV. Yes, this is the stuff sold at Harbor Freight for about half the cost of the Ultra Black tubes I've been using. He buys 11.1oz cartridges of the stuff from a wholesaler to use in a caulk gun ($9.87).
https://www.grainger.com/product/PRO-SEAL-Oil-Resistant-RTV-Silicone-1FBH8

Funny thing, it's made in the USA by Pace Technology - "the home of the original super glue". So, I'm sure it's a quality product. If I were building more engines than I do now, I wouldn't hesitate to use it. That said, no more engines than I do now and being a creature of habit (keep using what I know works), I'll just splurge for the Ultra Black - lol

For thread sealant, I like using those 1.69 oz. squeeze tubes with the rotating open and close tip, just like the GM brand that Bob linked above. I've used the brush on sealant that my buddy already had when I built his engine and didn't care for it. Much better control during application with the rotating open and close applicator tip and less chance of it gumming up over the years. I've been using the 1.69 oz. ARP sealant for about a long as I can remember. I wouldn't doubt if all the brands of the 1.69 oz. tubes weren't the same stuff either. The ARP is $5 less and I know it to be good stuff as well.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9904

I can't remember if there's been any mention of anti-seize, but that's EXTREMELY important to use on all the spark plugs and bolts going into the heads. I've been using the same tube of Permatx anti-seize for a LONG time - check out the picture lol. Just a little dab-a-do-ya on the beginning threads.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/umi-81343

[Linked Image]

#1069685 - Yesterday at 10:59 PM Re: 88ssBrent's Build [Re: 88ssBrent]  
Joined: Feb 2020
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88ssBrent Offline
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88ssBrent  Offline
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Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 188
Friendsville,Tn
Trick flow sent out my heads yesterday. Here is the email concerning the heads.

"Hello  

 Heads are going out today sir and I'll tell you this was a weird one. We have never had this call before and we have sold this head forever.  But your combo brought it out LOL. Hydraulic roller cam no issue, flat tapped with 1.5 rocker no issue any combo but your has been an issue. So just so you know we will make a production change in the head so no one else will have this issue.  Thank you for your patience and all your components will work with this you'll just need to check pushrod with your engine but it will work this time LOL 

Thanks so much 

Eddi"   

#1069688 - 17 hours ago Re: 88ssBrent's Build [Re: 88ssBrent]  
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,770
BadSS Offline
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BadSS  Offline
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Pearl, MS, 39208
Well, it took a bit of time, but it sounds like they took care of you. Now it's just a matter of checking out the valve seats to make sure all is well there - hopefully they did that too while they were at it, but you never know until you see for yourself!

#1069699 - 1 hour ago Re: 88ssBrent's Build [Re: 88ssBrent]  
Joined: Jan 2000
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mmc427ss Offline
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mmc427ss  Offline
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Pottstown, Pa
You would think that a hundred sets of those heads were sold and lots of guys go 1.6 rockers. Sound like a casting mold shift problem to me.
Glad, hoping, that gets this engine back together soon.

I'm a big Never-seez user, wheels, drums, rotors, steel bolts, exhaust clamps, buy it in 8 oz bottles. Never use it on wheels studs or lug nuts, they go on clean and dry. The 8 oz containers come with a brush cap, the contents need to be stirred often as the liquid and solids separate when sitting, and the solvents will evaporate overtime making what's left is a thick unusable paste. In tube form you need to knead the tube to keep the "mix" the same.

Was using it on spark plugs no matter alum or iron heads but switched to the copper based antiseize awhile ago. I found the silver antiseize gets sticky, pasty, as the heat cooks out the solvents.
Interesting that when you look at various plug manufactures they say use no antiseize on plugs that have a coating on the threads to prevent seizing, increase conductivity of the ground and make removal easier. NGK, my choice, has a trivalent coating, I've been neverseizing them, may try dry next time.
https://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf

Are the head bolts torqued yet?
Bob

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