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#1061082 - 03/11/19 02:16 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Crusher]  
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Originally Posted by Crusher
Wow Bob. After reading that my door seals can rot to hell if they want. Never gonna change them.


Great write-up Bob, appreciate all the insight. I'm with Kevin, I'll never touch them.


85 - ZZ383, 6-speed, 8.5"
70 - Stock, 35k miles
#1061087 - 03/11/19 06:02 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Crusher]  
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Originally Posted by Crusher
Wow Bob. After reading that my door seals can rot to hell if they want. Never gonna change them.



I agree!! laugh


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1061090 - 03/11/19 08:01 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Keep it up Bob, good info for the future for any of us who tackle these projects. I'm glad I used NOS door strips on my Monte's, was years ago when they weren't as hard to find nor as bad price wise, but still weren't cheap as it was already discontinued. They should last with the limited use/exposure, hopefully.


-86'SS 383 CCC QJet- BRF 2004r-8.5" 3.42 -313/344@RW - 13.35 @103
-87'LS 350 MAF/SD TPI- CRF 2004r-7.5" 3.42 -248/340@RW - 14.55 @ 96
-81'Grand LeMans Safari Wagon 3.8 2bbl/200C/2.73
-07'TBSS Stockish daily driver
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#1061093 - 03/12/19 12:10 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: mmc427ss]  
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Originally Posted by mmc427ss
Gordon, you'd like the Chevrolet Nationals Carlisle event. Have made several of them in recent years, with the exception of Kevin a great bunch of people to hang with for the day, or weekend if you chose,
Bob

Awwwwww Bob, you're so kind. When you come and hang with us this year you can have one of Frank's beer's.

Last edited by Crusher; 03/12/19 12:11 AM.

1988 502/502
ProCharger SC
Fast XFI Fuel Inj.
564 RWHP 574 TQ
http://SSMonteCarlo.com
#1061096 - 03/12/19 01:18 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Crusher]  
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Originally Posted by Crusher
Originally Posted by mmc427ss
Gordon, you'd like the Chevrolet Nationals Carlisle event. Have made several of them in recent years, with the exception of Kevin a great bunch of people to hang with for the day, or weekend if you chose,
Bob

Awwwwww Bob, you're so kind. When you come and hang with us this year you can have one of Frank's beer's.


smile


Leo Paugh
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POW*MIA
You are not forgotten
If things improve with age, I must be approaching magnificent. thumbs
#1061107 - 03/13/19 03:42 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Onward.
Removed the original factory adhesive down the hinge side of the driver's door which pulled some paint and exposed a couple pitted rust spot to fix. Spot painted the areas fixed with self etch primer, wet sanded with 600 the dry sprayed latch side of the door and shot several wet coats of black, big improvement in the finish now on the full perimeter of the door's jamb areas.

The Metro door seals come with a plastic shouldered bushing to use in the 4 screw locations. This to help prevent tear out I assume. The factory screws would be to short using the bushing. Found 4 longer washer headed screws in the trim screw collection to use instead. Had to reduce the plastic bushing height enough so they were the same height as the hole in the seal. Just another minor detail. Washed the areas of the seal to be glued with alcohol, scuffed with emery, washed again. Time to install the Metro door seal today.

Started at the latch side, 3M adhesive down about 10" to the latch on the door, glue on top where the seal would contact, seal and door 3M applied, waited until tacky, install down to the bottom corner, then install top at window and install screws. Wow pretty nice fit. Pinned the seal across bottom of door, nice. Apply adhesive from bottom of door hinge side to the window area, same on back side of seal. The trouble begins. From pin to pin the seal needs to be stretched, two pins pull out of the seal, get them back in and go to the top, manage to stretch the pad and get the two screws in at the top. Install seems to be OK. Roll the window up and no way is that any good. Window isn't aligning with slot in the seal and pulling the section of the seal on the outboard side up with it. The metro seal is much thicker in that area than the OEM seal. Trimmed and trimmed and trimmed until I got it to fit and work as it should when the window goes down and back up. Glued it in and thought OK, seal fits pretty good now.
Next is close the door, or attempt to. NEVER have had to force a door closed that hard. It actually holds the top of the glass away almost 1/8" across the top. SUCKS. Before this with the new SoftSeal roof seal installed and the original door seal still on the door it was a 98% seal, Now it's, xxxxxx.
Walked away, tomorrow is another day.

In the mean time Summit should deliver a SoftSeal door seal by Fri, ordered it this evening. Just hate the thought of having to clean up that 3M mess and maybe some paint again. Now at 15 seals bought to replace 4. Think I've covered all the bases now, and still striking out.

It's a shame the Fairchild door seals I bought first was 3/4" to short on the latch side. I liked the quality and thickness of the end pads and the entire seal seem a little more like the originals for overall softness. BUT, junk is junk.

Applied a pure silicone oil to the pass door seal and roof seal, let it sit for a day with the door open, wiped excess and door with a little effort closes nicely.
Hurray!!! One door is nice.

But I knew from the get go that this project was going to be PITA.
Bob

#1061164 - 03/15/19 06:35 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Pretty sure I have two doors on the car now with acceptable seals on the windows and now the doors. The Softseal door seals were delivered today. But they will go back in the box to return to Summit. The Metro seal I glued on the other day I ripped off and tossed in the trash. Spent awhile cleaning up the 3M adhesive I used on that Metro seal. Now ready for another seal install, but it's not the Softseal.

Being I have two driver's door Fairchild door seals that are junk because of being 3/4" to short on the hinge side I cut both of them on the bandsaw and made a seal that is 3/4" longer. Did my homework on what glue to use on EPDM to bond the ends, Cyanoacrylates, Crazy Glue, bought a Permatex Super Glue Gel. As a test cut the pass door Fairchild seal I'll never use, wow. I was surprised in 10 minutes you couldn't pull the joint apart.

Cut and glued the driver's door seal, dresses the joint on the grinding wheel, which does a really nice job, you can hardly see the joint.
Next was test fit the seal ends were they get screwed to the door. The latch end needed no trimming, screwed it to the door and used masking tape to show where the glue doesn't need to be when final installing.
Next to the hinge side end. Different story, several trips to the bandsaw to trim off rubber that can't be stuffed under the beltline weatherstrip. Lots of material removed, back to the grinder to make a nice fit without stressing the holes in the rubber for the screws, this is important. The Fairchild door seal have steel washers in bedded in the rubber to help prevent the tearing at all four holes. The Softseal has nothing there and I can see if you stress the rubber at the hole it will tear. The Metro door seal is thick at the holes and has that plastic bushing to insert into the hole. None of those seals is as good as the OEM seal for securing the ends of the seal, the Fairchild is the next best choice.

With 3M adhesive in hand again glued/screwed the latch side, inserted pins around to the front lower hinge corner, applied 3M from the lower corner to the top pin, installed pins. Applied 3M to seal and door, after tacking uses a thin rod as a guide to align the screw holes and installed screws while pulling and pressing seal end outward to keep stress minimal at the holes in the rubber. The seal is stuck very well to the paint. Bingo.

Forgot to mention seal scuffed with emery and cleaned with alcohol where 3M applied, this really helps to get a good stick.

Double checked all the pins to be fully seated, pressed on the glued areas a few more times. With the window all the way up it took a good bit of effort to close the door but latched on the second hard push.The door now closed where it should be, the glass is now touching the roof seal along the roof, YEAH, we have a seal on the door that works.
Will not get back to the car for a couple days, left the window down a little and will allow that seal to hopefully take a set.

This morning called Fairchild and spoke at length to a sale person about their seal being 3/4" to short. Said I was going to make a seal for the left side from the two seals I had because their seal was the best of the three manufacturers available today even though it was made wrong. Of course they think you are nuts and will look into the length issue with the engineers. Maybe i'll call back in a week and see if that information got passed on.

If i was to recommend what seals to use Softseal is the only choice for a roof seal. The Metro had to many things I didn't like about it. Will trash that set of seals. Have a full untouched set of roof Softseal in a bag. Will stash it away in case i ever need to do a roof seal again. Only the ends are glued in on the car's roof seals now so replacement would be pretty easy.

As far as door seals the Metros are WAY to firm and would never work In my opinion. You can't SLAM a door forever. Their molded ends were the best appearing, smooth, of the three companies. the plastic bushing inserts for the screw holes is a good idea. But the sold rubber full length of the seal would never compress or take a set. More trash.

The Softseal door seal may be ok and would still be to firm even though it hollow for most of it. I never installed them just test fit the ends to see if they would fit and be able to be screwed down. The latch side end would need to be pulled hard to get the screws in and I can see how they would tear out at the holes. A big negative for the Softseal. The Softseal was much less firm than the Metro but compared to the Fairchild was still to firm doing the squish test. The hinge side end of the Softseal had a different shape and cut than the other two seal had, only a little trimming would be necessary there due to the fatness of the seal next to the window,

So the Fairchild door seal is the winner, but only after making it longer.The ends are nice but not perfect in finish but acceptable. The hinge side end need lots of trimming to make it fit just right, the door seal along it's length has different shapes to it to accommodate different areas of the door. It's softer, more forgiving. Bingo.

Funny, last Oct after thinking and reading about doing the door R&R a set of Fairchild door seals and roof seals was bought back then. The roof seals they sell are made by Softseal. So my initial purchase of seals is what I ended up using. Just wish when I checked the door seals back then and found out they were not made correctly that Fairchild would have stepped up to the plate and make them correctly. They would be the best door seal choice, other than OEM for our cars.

Who knows, may get the car out for a drive very soon.
Bob

#1061185 - 03/16/19 12:53 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Great write up Bob, I’m exhausted just reading it. Beer is on me at Carlisle.


85 - ZZ383, 6-speed, 8.5"
70 - Stock, 35k miles
#1061186 - 03/16/19 03:12 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: FrankOC]  
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Originally Posted by FrankOC
Great write up Bob, I’m exhausted just reading it. Beer is on me at Carlisle.

Yes and have another one of Frank's beer on me.


1988 502/502
ProCharger SC
Fast XFI Fuel Inj.
564 RWHP 574 TQ
http://SSMonteCarlo.com
#1061200 - 03/17/19 01:38 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Thanks for the beers Frank. Think Kevin will let me use his beer koozy?
Bob

#1061201 - 03/17/19 02:40 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Today finally got the car out of the shop and up the highway a few miles. Both doors are completely back together, all four seals have been silicone lubed, both doors have the door latch strike bolt moved outboard about 3/32" to allow easier closing without forcibly slamming the doors. In a couple months after the weather gets toasty again will readjust the strikes back to original locations to see how much the seals have taken a set. Even moving the strike outboard the window sealing along the full length of glass is very good on both sides. It will only get better as the seals take a set over the Summer. HAPPY, HAPPY!!!!

On the test drive only got to about 45 mph and heard/felt air at the driver's A pillar where the roof seal overlaps the door seal. I was expecting that as the seal's end shapes differ a little from one seal brand to another. Pretty sure this is something I can fix with a little effort.

Next washed the filthy car that been sitting for 3 months now and check for leaks at the glass and seals. Nothing!!! YEAH!. Saw nothing at the door seals also. A 70 mph heavy rain check could be done but that only happens every couple years with this car. It's wind noise I'll focus on now.

Did a cost analysis of this door R&R project.
Spent 702 bucks total. Misc costs were one new door hinge, pins/bushings, 2 window motors, lots of paint supplies and sealers all which add up quickly was almost exactly 350. Considering I bought 15 seals to replace 4 seals; 4 seals get returned to Summit, 5 go in the trash, 2 extra roof Softseal get saved or sold all to end up with 4 good installed seals. The costs of all the seals used and trashed was 356 after it's all said and done. Not bad really, Recently two new OEM door seals were on the market for 300 for the pair. I have a new OEM on the pass door now. So in the end it wasn't overly expensive to take a look at all possible seals and end up with 4 that make me happy. But was somewhat surprised that the other misc costs got to the 350 number.
But like all car project today there is no nickel-and-diming you, the nickel is now a 50 bucks and the dime is a 100.

Just a couple things left to do yet.
Apply seam sealer around the top driver's door hinge at the A pillar. GM did this when the car was build to prevent the runoff from the firewall/cowl area getting behind/into the hinge/A pillar connection. Already have resealed the other three hinges before repainting those areas.

Paper drag used to locate that wind/noise and the seal overlap on the A pillar driver's side. Will need a pass in the car to check the pass door for air leaks.

Interior needs detailed now to remove dust created when a door needed to be wide open to do the project. Front seats and dash were covered through most of job but no matter what you do there is still a cleanup.

Can say this has been a long process, didn't think in the beginning it would be a big deal, but as things go it was. But can say the Softseal roof seals and the Fairchild door seals is the way to go, but only after Fairchild comes to realize they need to make a correction to their product.

Happy motoring.
Bob

#1061210 - 03/19/19 05:10 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Got some seat time in the car today. 45 mph and up to 70 got air coming in at the front of the beltline seal (outside window sweep) where it intersect the glass, door seal, roof seal. There is a groove in the door seal that is a trough to connect with the beltline seal to help shed water I assume. All three of the different door seals bought had it but they varied in shape and size. Can't say that matching a Fairchild door seal to a SoftSeal roof seal as I did caused a mismatch there. But that's where the air is coming through. Will do something to stop that air. At least there are no whistles, and no water leaks, and have total glass to roof seal contact. Both the pass and driver's door strike bolts are moved outward for the next few months. Glass to roof seal will get better if I can moved the strike bolts back to original locations, time will tell.

Seam sealed the new driver's side top hinge to the body, a real PITA to get to with a caulking gun but it turned out well. Very little time to work with that sealant, it tacks fast, can't play with the goo to long, you need to know when to fold-um.

Waxed the body jambs and doors jambs, won't need to do that for a couple years now.

Made the mistake of removing the seat belt lock from the pass jamb to lube it and fix it's seal which was pushing out. In order to get it reinstalled the rear seat bottom had to come out, along with the rocker trim, and two other plastic parts in order to see into that area to align the lock's rod. Dummy, leave well enough alone.

Spending time on the driver's door lock solenoid linkage and plastic vent in the body jamb seems to have stopped the rattle one or the other was making. Another plus to this project!!!

My 95 Astro needs some TLC to get it through another year's safety and emissions tests. Brakes all around, tune up, lower rad hose, trans fluid, parts on the way, hoping to get all that done at the end of the week. Can't say I'm happy to trade the hands abused by lacquer fluid, sealants and paints for the one's abused by brake dust, Brakeclean and grease. Even my grand kids don't like the hands. Doing the dishes a couple times a day does little to make them golf ready in a few weeks.

Less updates will be forthcoming, probably a good thing. Need to decide if there is enough time left in this off season to strip the roof and re-shoot it. And whether I really have interest in digging into that project. But that will be a new post IF done.
Bob

#1061227 - 03/19/19 08:13 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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For the hands, cover them with Vaseline and put clean socks on your hands overnight. Use gloves when working on the other stuff!! Yeah, I hate the gloves too, my hands sweat too bad to use them for very long at a time!!


Leo Paugh
It's not an attitude, it's just the way I am.
POW*MIA
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If things improve with age, I must be approaching magnificent. thumbs
#1061278 - 03/24/19 11:04 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Leo, as for the hands they took another beating yesterday. Replacing the front and rear brakes on a very high mileage Astro was an all day'er, brake dust, rust, neverseiz, brakeclean, none good on the hands. Have tried many different lotions over the years but find doing a lot of dishes and AmLactin seems to repair the damage the quickest. Never could get used to wearing those latex gloves the shops use, no feel.
Plugs and wires on the 4.3L Astro next week, that's a bleeding event along with the beating the hands take. #1 and #3 plugs and even #5 are difficult. #1 on a 10 scales is a 9 1/2. I buy 7 plugs instead of 6, in case you crack one.

Had the 86 out again chasing the air leak on the driver's door. Cut a small piece of weatherstripping to temporarily fill the drain channel but that didn't stop the air.
Persistence, I'll fix it once the air inrush is found.

Had to trim the angle on the front end of the driver's door beltline weatherstrip. With the door closed that angle hits the roof seal and was to deep into the seal, abrasion, wear over time and the roof seal would have a rub or cut from the beltline seal. The pass side is OK for now. Will revisit the area when the door strikes are moved inboard again.
For cutting a very small amount off the end of the beltline seal used a Wiss compound snip, made a clean, straight cut. A knife, scissors, much more difficult .

Had to replace the driver's door window switch. One side where the metal clip to hold the switch in was broken. Got a Delco replacement, made in Taiwan, at least it didn't say China on the box, even though they are the same place. A technicality these days.

The weather here is supposed to be nice this coming week, will get a ride-a-long to listen to the pass door for air leaks.

Spent some time surveying how much labor is involved in painting the roof and A,B,pillars. Don't really want to pull the 1/4 glass out for paint. That adds a lot of cleanup work, plus the rubber seals wouldn't look the same after removal. New seals I don't think are available. Just don't think starting another seal battle is something I'm interested in right now.
Bob

#1061279 - 03/25/19 02:05 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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thumbs


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POW*MIA
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If things improve with age, I must be approaching magnificent. thumbs
#1061466 - 04/11/19 05:35 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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A part of the door R&R is getting the A/F interconnect cable out of the pass door jamb. That required about a week's worth of work. For a decade that cable feed an Innovate LM1 located under the pass seat, the O2 sensor on the pass side. Through the jamb was the necessary route to go 10 years ago. The new OEM pass door seal, thanks Mike, does not need to be dealing with that cable. Cable gone!
More info on the new LC2 wide band install on another post if interested. Have had a good A/F gauge on this car for over a decade now. Can't see how you can run a carbed perf car without one today.

Sidetracked by a dozen other things I haven't make any adjustment to the drivers door yet. Last couple times out at 45 mph still hear air at the front bottom of the glass. Have thought about moving the top of the door in 1/32" via the top hinge. The top hinge on that door is the new one and all fresh, not a big deal to do that. The fender to door alignment is OK right now, for the most part the door is "lower" than the fender as it should be. Being the fender and door edge contours are all over the place you try to keep the door edge lower most of the time. Going more than 1/32" and the top of the door would be noticeable lower than the fender. Hoping that 1/32" would put a little more pressure on the roof seal at the lower front area of the glass. It might even have a little positive effect on the glass at the upper rear corner of the glass.

It seems the door has picked up a squeak in the rear 1/2 of the driver's door. Window up no squeak, down yes. I saw a faint line of rust powder on a sheetmetal overlap where it would be spot welded. Should have put a drop of MIG on it when the door was apart. If the door panel needs to be removed again for another window alignment that will get done.
Bob

#1061737 - 05/04/19 04:03 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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After a dozen drives in the car, most over 45 mph, the air inrush at the A pillar needed to have something done, tired of it.. Where the end of the L roof seal gets glued and pinned to the A pillar is the suspected leak. The Softseal end there is firm, and just doesn't fit that well. A gap of over an 1/8" at the bottom and tapering closer at the top when it should touching the outboard face of the A pillar.

Today made a few parts so the seal could be glued and pushed again the A pillar to hopefully have a successful glue job. A couple pieces soft plastic sheet stock to protect the seal, a piece of rubber on the door side for the same reason and two pieces of wood tapered and cut to fit the door contact areas. With the door opened to it's normal opened position the wood's length is made a little longer. The door is then opened past the normal open position, the two wood piece installed, door then relaxed back to normal wide open, and now you have a little tension on the plastic strips pushing the seal gently against the A pillar. I tried taping the seal, and a few other methods to hold for gluing but using the door and the wood worked out well.
Tomorrow will remove the "press" and see how well the 3M adhesive hold. Everything was prepped well with a paint prep and again with alcohol.
The next step is to used a black RTV to fill what ever gaps are left and also as another adhesive to hold the seal in place. At the very top of that end on the Softseal is hard to get get RTV in. The rail the roof seal goes into ends there and the A pillars interior plastic trim make for a very confining area that needs sealer. I can see gaps there and think that is the air inrush coming from above the top hinge, up the A pillar and exiting that small area. Hopefully that is the fix for that annoying air.

Checking that seal area on the R side door the roof seal is all but touching the A pillar. Haven't had anyone sitting in the pass seat to tell me if there is a leak over there. Once i get the L cured that will be done if necessary.

Both door still need a firm closing but sound good when you close them. R door has a little more pop than the L when you open the door. I'm patient, will live with that through the Summer, who knows the heat may help the seals settle in to an acceptable state.
Bob

#1061745 - 05/05/19 02:07 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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You know what makes that air sound go away? Roll the windows down... laugh

Good luck on the fight Bob, hope the latest fix works.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1061762 - 05/06/19 10:50 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Dorothy, you're not in Kansas anymore. Yes but, it doesn't get cold in AZ very often. Here we still need some heat sometimes. And in the Summer the windows are up and the R12 A/C keeps the black car cold.

Well the leak at the A pillar is gone. Re gluing the roof seal at the bottom front of it so it had no gap and then using an RTV to fill any gaps around the view-able top and side of that end seems to have taken care of it. The in rush air was noticeable at 40 and got worse as speed inceased. Got the car up to 40 and realized right away it was gone, 70 mph no leak. YEA.

Decided to re-glue the right side at the same place even though it has a much better fit. Will let the 3M dry overnight and do the RTV trick. The good thing about the RTV is it will stay pliable and allow the seal to move when the door is closed. If you clean the seal real good with alcohol the RTV sticks to the EPDM, sticking to the black lacquer is a given with RTV, it stick almost to well.

May still move the top of the driver's door inward a little to improve the window to roof seal across the top. Won't move it much, less than 1/16". After door and roof seal were installed, and the window mechs R&Red, the glass had multiple adjustments done to get the best window to roof seal contact. From the original location of the glass a lot more tilt inward had to be added. Don't want to add anymore and that's the reason to cheat and move the top hinge inward which adds a little more tilt. Trial and error.
Bob

#1063502 - 09/10/19 04:31 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 4,428
Pottstown, Pa
Well six months since the install of the door seals, a full Summer of hot days with several scorchers, 100s of opening and closing of the doors, windows up and down a lot and 400 miles at 70 mph, and it's time to adj the driver's glass again. Never installed the plastic covers on the driver's door pull strap because I always knew that door panel was coming off again. Never really happy with the window sealing there. Down the highway at 70 mph wind/air noise is more than I can deal with, not terrible, just very annoying.
The culprit is the roof seal itself, the vertical seal section of the B pillar is to firm and doesn't allow the top edge of the glass to seat against the top section of the seal.at the corner. When the Soft Seal roof seal is made it is two section bonded in the corner, the roof section is soft, the vertical is much firmer. That joint has a low spot when the sections are bonded, adjusting the glass to tuck it in there only cause the glass to push harder on the vertical B pillar section. Not sure the window adjustments can fix that problem.


Tonight reapplied a coating of silicone on all the door/roof seals. Will have the car out several more times and allow the silicone to absorb into the seals before cleaning up after the application. Have been using high grade pure silicone oil on rubber seals for many decades and had good long lasting seal life. Got almost 35 years out of the door seals on the 86, trunk and under hood seal look like new yet.

Will pull the driver's door apart again and play with the window adjustment soon hoping to get a better seal. Passenger door sealing at roof and door are very good, no apparent noise/air on that side, no water leaks. The pass side Soft Seal roof seal corner is a little nicer on that side, no low spot like the driver's door seal. Glass contact is good across the top, tucks nicely into the corner with the window up when the door is closed. The glass required very little adjustment after the new seals were installed.
Driver's door required large glass adjustments to get OK seal, Now that the Summer is all but over time to try adjusting again.
Bob

#1063507 - 09/10/19 08:25 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: mmc427ss]  
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,124
1 Slow SS Offline
10+ Year
1 Slow SS  Offline
10+ Year
Member

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,124
Coxs Creek KY
That must be the reason I bought up a few sets of OEM seals before they ran out? Even with those it's a tedious process to gain nice fitment.

Regards,
Ron.


Do it for yourself not the attention of others.
#1063526 - 09/13/19 04:49 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: 1 Slow SS]  
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 75
cgh1 Offline
10+ Year
cgh1  Offline
10+ Year
Member

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 75
Boca Raton, FL
Do you have any NOS t-Top weatherstripping for the left and right side of the roof? Thanks

#1063540 - 09/14/19 09:29 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: cgh1]  
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,124
1 Slow SS Offline
10+ Year
1 Slow SS  Offline
10+ Year
Member

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,124
Coxs Creek KY
Originally Posted by cgh1
Do you have any NOS t-Top weatherstripping for the left and right side of the roof? Thanks


I don't have any T-top weather stripping, I would try Mikes Montes? I only had one T-top car and I cut the roof off and made a hard top out of it.


Do it for yourself not the attention of others.
#1063637 - 09/26/19 04:01 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 4,428
mmc427ss Offline
15+ Year
mmc427ss  Offline
15+ Year
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 4,428
Pottstown, Pa
Pulled the driver's door apart to tweak on the window adjustments again. The door and window seals have been through many heat cycles during the hot Summer,
hundreds of opening and closing of the doors and silicone coated several times since doing the seal replacement in March. This time spent several hours and dozens of adjustments to get the glass to "that's as good as it will get". The glass now fits better in the B pillar top corner and was able to take a little tension off the lower side of the seal /glass contact on the B pillar. Prior if I wanted to close the window all the way up with the door closed it would bind on the seal. You would need to open the door,
jog the up bottom to lift that last 1/4" of up travel and then close the door. That seems to be a lot better now. The firmness of the SoftSeal's vertical B pillar section will never allow that section of seal to compress like the OEM did. The Metro roof seal was a little softer there, but the rest of that seal's construction was not the same quality as the SoftSeal.

I would say both the left and right doors now seal well, drove the car for two hours in the rain to UMI KOTM event, hosed the glass a dozen times washing the pig, no leaks. The gap area just fixed on the left door previously had a trickle, should be very good now, paper test says yes.
Either door still requires a very firm closing to latch when both windows are all the way up and the other door is closed. Now if you leave the other door open and close your door with the glass up it closes with just a firm push. Thinking this has a little to do with closing a door into a sealed cabin. May say the seals are working good on the other door.
Roll the windows down and both doors close nicely, quietly, not much effort needed. The OEM door seal on the pass door and the Fairchild I made for the driver's door fit and seal great, the only choices for door seals. Hopefully Fairchild gets their door seal length corrected, good product otherwise. Also required a little "trim to fit" where the glass intersects at the ends of the seal.

The black plastic clips that cover the screws for the pull strap on the inner door have not been installed on the driver's door since taking that door apart in the Spring. I knew I'd be back in there at the end of the Summer. Well Summer is gone, 6 or 8 hours of tweaking this time and now the plastic black clips are going back on. Time to move on, gotta find a gallon or two of black lacquer, think about pulling the heads, better seat belts, 3/4 R&R in the T56, Winter projects will be here soon.

Always a goal for this car is to put 2000 miles on it a year, currently 1800 with two or three months to go. It was built to drive quickly and enjoy the ride, having a nice set of doors and seals is part of that deal. Can put that project behind me now.
Bob

#1063644 - 09/27/19 01:18 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: mmc427ss]  
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,302
FrankOC Offline
10+ Year
FrankOC  Offline
10+ Year
Member

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,302
Cape Cod, MA
thanks for all the info Bob, I may tackle the same project this winter.


85 - ZZ383, 6-speed, 8.5"
70 - Stock, 35k miles
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