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#976824 - 07/03/13 09:07 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: MikesMontes]  
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Originally Posted By: MikesMontes
steele is metro rebagged


Mike,
What about the G-Body link above? They mention nothing beats GM but they carry some they think may be as well-made..... but, they don't say who makes them.
I bought a complete kit about 5 years ago (still in closet waiting till I paint) and I may have bought them from you Mike, they are Soft Seal and I thought they 'looked' a lot like my originals.
In any case, I think anyone that is going to the trouble to replace all the 'stripping should refurb the hinges.


1987 Monte Carlo SS, '78 406, Speed Density TPI, Herbert Hyd Roller Cam, Trick-Flow "Twisted Wedge" 1st gen alum. heads, 11.0:1 compression, Sealed-Power pistons w/gapless rings, Mallory CD ignition, 30 lb Accel injectors, Edelbrock headers, Bosch external fuel pump, 36 lb Centerforce flywheel, 1993 T-56 6-speed,Hurst shifter and stock 3:73 Posi.
#977171 - 07/08/13 05:13 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: MikesMontes]  
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Mikemontes,
Tried to call your 800 number this past week and it keep hanging up on me. Would like to discuss ttop mouldings with you.

#977525 - 07/11/13 04:13 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Spend the extra money and get the GM seals.
We went the soft seal route this spring door and roof rail seals. 3 different shops worked on the windows trying to get them to even come close to sealing without any luck. I ended up using the soft seal door seals they don't fit right but seem to be useable and GM roof rail seals. By the time I gave up on the soft seals they had the windows so far out of adjustment it took forever to get them right with the GM seals.
Long story short I have way more in labor than what I would have spent going all GM in the first place and they are still not perfect.

Kirban performance in Pa. Sells A book on adjusting windows for noise and rattles they also sell anti rattle kits and motors and have an employee by the Name of Pete Hoffman who is rumored to be the new G Body window guy
Good luck
Mike


Daughter's 1984 Monte Carlo SS
Car Craft Magazine Humble Pie engine build
200-4r trans.
8.5" 4:10 Grand National rearend
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#977531 - 07/11/13 10:29 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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I was on my one day vacation july 4 -8 call now Mike


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#977831 - 07/14/13 05:40 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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does anyone know who makes the "goodmark" weatherstrips?


1987 Monte Carlo SS Pontiac powered project
too much time not enough money
#1058038 - 07/01/18 04:59 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Digging up an old post but the same question, just 5 years later.

Shopping now to replace just the left top door seal. Would love to find a left GM seal lying on someone shelf, 20277449, but that ain't going to happen.
Basically still three venders, Metro, Soft Seal and Goodmark. Did two Metro sets on two different vehicles many years ago, did a Soft Seal kit on a 67 Camaro 10 years ago, wasn't happy with any of those installs.
Anyone lately used any of those product and was happy with them?
Bob

#1058373 - 07/25/18 09:38 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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MikesMontes Offline
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goodmark is Metro --still only 2 out there


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We have all your 4th Gen Monte Carlo needs
#1059277 - 10/03/18 02:01 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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mmc427ss Offline
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Mike, ran across this door weatherstrip kit tonight. Do you know anything about them?

https://fairchildindustries.com/ite...3142-door-seal-kit-chevrolet-monte-carlo

Bob

#1059322 - 10/07/18 04:26 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Well decided to purchase the Fairchild door seals to see about the quality of their product. Mostly because the other available upper door seals, Metro (Goodmark) and Softseal seem to be unacceptable to most who have bought them. Have seen and installed other products from those venders and need to try someone else. The price of the Fairchild is priced comparable to Metro and Softseal, that makes me question the quality but only after having the part in hand can I truely see the quality and fit. Wish i could find a OEM driver door upper seal for the left side but that doesn't happen these days.
Both Rockauto and Summit sell the Fairchild and Summit is 20 bucks cheaper, hard to believe.
Order completed.
Have thrown away new parts I've purchased in the past. The difference today is you buy from the internet and can't touch, examine, the part before purchasing. New Gates alternator belt from Rockauto, CHINA, went in trash before install.
Bob

#1059383 - 10/12/18 04:57 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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The Fairchild seals showed up today, unfortunately when I ordered them I was having a senior moment. Not paying attention to details on their website I ordered the door seals, KG 3142, DAH, need the roof seals DH 3138. They are on their way now, drop shipped from Fairchild via Summit.

So now i will have a complete new set of seals for the doors if I ever get around to painting the door jambs.
The quality looked good on the door seals, fit, who knows for now. They feel very soft, and have all the details molded in. They came kinda folded in a plastic bag, some creasing at the folds, will let one hang free for a while to see if the creases disappear.

Minor detail about the production of my car. The metal trim that screws to the B pillar on the driver's side is chrome instead of blacked out. The non-SS cars got chrome. Somehow someone on the production line screwed up.The seal gets installed in a channel in that piece. I owned the car for almost 10 years before Steve Ragusa pointed it out to me, never noticed it. When he parted out his 85 SS he sent me that trim piece, I sat on it for a decade until refinishing it the other night.
It will get swapped in when the ROOF SEAL is installed.
Bob

#1059398 - 10/14/18 12:24 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Bob, are the weather strips reinforced on the ends?


84 - Stock
85 - ZZ383, 6-speed
#1059401 - 10/14/18 03:04 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Frank I will feel for the reinforcing in the ends when I get back to the shop. I know the factory door seals have a white plastic piece embedded in the ends. Not sure if the original roof seals have one at the A pillar end.
Do you know if the SoftSeal or Metro have the plastic embedded?
Bob

#1059403 - 10/14/18 04:32 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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From what I have heard, they do not


84 - Stock
85 - ZZ383, 6-speed
#1059412 - 10/15/18 03:45 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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After kicking myself in the butt for ordering the wrong seal didn't spend much time with them in my hand. Realized the door panel needs to be removed for install, stuck them back in the bag and box, that's another day. Will take another look tomorrow, but I'd guess they don't have the insert either.
Roof seals should show up Mon or Tues, maybe an install on the left side later in the week.
Bob

#1059434 - 10/16/18 05:48 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Nope, no plastic insert in the door seal ends like stock seals have. Would also say you need to glue the end pads to the door along with the couple press pins or screws used there.
When they ship the seals they are folded in places to get them in a plastic bag. At the folds there are creases caused by the folding. Tonight laid out one of the door seals flat to see if that crease will relax.

Actually thinking about buying the Softseal set to compare them side by side.
Bob

#1059439 - 10/16/18 02:40 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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some now have grommets to prevent/reduce tears - see then in Mikes Montes site.
Gordon

#1059454 - 10/17/18 03:41 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Not sure what you mean by "grommets". Looked through Mike's site and didn't see what you are referring to.
Bob

#1059515 - 10/21/18 03:28 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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The Fairchild roof rail seals showed up Tues, Seem to be good quality. The seal section down the B pillar is very firm and has some type of insert inside to make it firmer.
The creases in the door seals from folding/bending them to fit in a bag seems to be relaxing and may not be a problem.
Picked up two tubes of 3M Black Weatherstrip adhesive #08008.

Found that Steele Rubber Products sells all the seal for the car. On one of their videos they mention washers in-bedded in the ends where the push pins go in, Fairchilds doesn't have that.
Also the Steele price for the roof rail seal is twice the price of the other three choices. Hmmmmm?
https://www.steelerubber.com/hardtop-roof-rail-weatherstrip-82-0035-68

Good video on gluing the seals.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDBojIza-TA

Won't get around to doing the replacements until the Winter doldrums.
Bob

#1059518 - 10/21/18 03:36 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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use the black RTV sparingly, just a small line under the seals.


Leo Paugh
It's not an attitude, it's just the way I am.
POW*MIA
You are not forgotten
If things improve with age, I must be approaching magnificent. thumbs
#1059542 - 10/23/18 04:43 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Confused by what is what. Going to make a few calls and emails to try and see who re brands what seals. Sellers appear to be Softseal, Metro, Fairchild who appear to be there own products. Goodmark (Softseal), Steele (Metro), Trim Parts (Metro?) just repackage?

Looked at what is involved to replace the seals again tonight. Thinking that the door seals need to be done first, wait a week or so for the seals to conform, they are pretty soft and may take a set quickly. Then pull the roof seals and touch up the A pillar paint at the bottom area of the seal first. Do one door initially so if the left turns out bad you only have one bad install. Door hinges should be done but they aren't terrible, very little sag, they have been well maintained for the car's entire life, 33 years.

Did an R&R on both of the doors internals a few years ago when new GM belt line seals were done, glass guides, felts, adjustments and lube was done. Hopefully don't need to tweak the glass fit to the new roof seals. Time will tell.
Bob

#1060165 - 12/08/18 01:56 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Let me share my experience about these weatherstrips. Back to 2000, I had my 86 repaint, and I order a set of soff seal complete kit from Soff Seal. After my car finally finish paint, body shop install all the new weatherstrips, and find out the driver window was wrong (it was for a 4 doors car), So I rush to a Chevrolet dealer parts department brought a OEM driver's window roof seal. No problem for install. OK, after a few years later, the OEM seal starting to harden and braking apart. And the Soff seal on the passenger's window still at good condition at this day. So for all the guys willing pay high dollar for a original seal, you have to think when was GM made these seal? For sure not this few years. Possible 20 or 30 ago.

#1060167 - 12/08/18 04:20 PM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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Trimparts bought Soffseal a couple years ago ---so they no longer offer seals


www.mikesmontes.com
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We have all your 4th Gen Monte Carlo needs
#1060386 - 01/06/19 05:57 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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To start the door seal/roof repainting project an inspection of the door hinges was done first. The original driver's upper hinge is in trouble, bushings/pins will fix the other three. Debated between the overpriced GM hinge or aftermarket. After talking to Mike ordered an aftermarket left upper door hinge from him and bushings to to do the other three hinges. An R&R of the hinge areas gets done first which includes painting the A pillar from behind the roof seal (light surface rust under the roof seal at the bottom) to the rocker. New blow out clips, change out the chrome driver's B pillar trim to black which was installed 33 years ago by a confused GM factory worker, then the new seals that I hope fit well. This should freshen up the door and seal fit.

Once that piece of the project is done, doors/windows adjustments, will move on to getting the roof some fresh black paint. Had a new windshield installed several months ago and installed a good used set of plastic strips that go between the trim and glass. Ordered a new set from Mike in case pulling the trim damages the plastic strips. Not planning on pulling the rear glass, just it's trim for roof repaint.

The repaint of the roof is a preservation thing, not a car show trophy thing. Painted the Goodmark hood in lacquer, the rest of the top surfaces will be lacquer. In a year or so the roof will look like the rest of the car which is lacquer, just will have no grazing, leaf marks, pits and bare spots. I see WAY to many cars that end up in the paint penitentiary costing Way to much money and the owner crying when they get that first big scratch. The car is a driver and besides I hate waxing cars. Yes lacquer is work to keep the shine, but for me that's like once a year to bring it back to life. No big deal.

Now one of my Winter projects has got started.
Bob

#1060440 - 01/15/19 05:11 AM Re: new weather stripping question? [Re: Rodney]  
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I guess this post has sidetracked to a door R&R now. Mostly because in order to do seals the doors have to fit/align correctly first. And because it appears the few people who actually read forums anymore won't mind it the post deviates from "where can I find GM seals for my car".

Started with pass door first being the hinge pins/bushing and the roller were in very good condition, no door sag. And it was the guinea pig for the drivers door which is the important one. Made a wood cradle to support the door so it could be slid out away from the body to do the bushings without removing the hinges or disconnecting the window/lock wires. Hindsight now says pull the wires and get the door far enough away so the A pillar seam and paint repair was easier to do.

With very little room to work a hacksaw blade in Lenox blade holder is all that you fit in there to cut the pins, about an hour to cut two pins. A cutoff wheel would work but having fine metal chips everywhere wasn't happening. Because the left and right lower hinges on our cars are the same hinge on the right side the pin is driven up, and the left side it's down from the factory. On the right lower hinge it will hit the inside of the door when removed, so that side is cut 1" above the bottom of the hinge. Oh, the pins need to be cut to remove as they have a crimp on the pin end that won't pass through the hinge. The head of the pin has flutes that press into the hinge to secure it and to prevent it turning. Using a 5/16" bolt, some nuts and washers made a press to push the fluted old pin out easily rather than beating the pin out with a hammer. As I removed one of the pin sections it was ground undersized and a taper point put on the end and placed back in the hole it came from, now have four 1/2 pins installed. At that point I had a door ready to pull. Put the window back up and closed the door, it was 3 am.

Second day pulled the door away pretty easily after pulling four stub pins. Lesson, door spring now has dropped out, this will complicate the reinstall later, hmmm. Washed everywhere, a bunch of sanding on the A where the roof seal was clued, picked a fair amount of old dry seal sealer out, more sanding, reapplied new SEM seam sealer to necessary areas, waited, masked off areas to be painted, primed, two coated of black Duplicolor, top half of A jamp and old hinges refinished.

Between coats of paint removed 95% of the roof seal, they had it glue the entire length in two spots. It come out in a million pieces. A trip to the body supply last week looking for 3M 08971 adhesive remover was fruitless. They sold me a qt of wax and tar remover, good for paint prep but didn't touch the 33 year old adhesive in the rail. I need to be careful about getting all the old stuff be gone, no plans on any paint work there.

Third day in was Sat afternoon. Made a press from another 5/16" bolt and installed the four bushings. The top hinge lower bushing is larger OD than the other three and appears to be bronze not brass like the others. Something I never knew about these cars, of course I never looked in the 27 year I've owned it.
The top hinge on the door has the spring and arm cam on that side. The fixed roller is on the body side. Using a long tie wrap through a hole in the arm, then behind the hinge, the spring can be held in place with some tension. It stayed put through the next hour or more battle to follow.

When sliding the door back in place the spring now comes into play, it needs to be compress, the cam is now pushing on the roller. The spring has a lot of mechanical advantage via leverage which made pushing the door hinges into alignment not possible.. An hour was wasted just trying to get that extra inch in to drop a tapered pin in the top hole. Finally got the door spring compressor out of the drawer and finagled it into a place to compress the spring enough to eventually, with the help of the wood door cradle, the Lincoln and a hefty friend get a tapered pin in the top hole. Before a stub tapered pin goes in the bottom hinge the compressor needs to be removed, that's how tight things are. Another tapered stub pin is inserted up through the lower hole in the lower hinge. A new pin is inserted through the top of the lower hinge, knocks out the tapered pin on the bottom. Next a pin is inserted thru the bottom of the top hinge, drives out the stub pin up there. Almost done.

The flutes on the new pin need to be seated in the hinge. With the hinges mounted to the door and body sheetmetal it is all but impossible to seat them fully, to much flex in the steel arms of the hinges, door/body sheetmetal. Tried numerous way of backing up the hinge for support. It is hard enough even to get something on the pin heads to drive them. Furiously beating on them to drive them home is only damaged something, I realized that very early and after several attempts to drive them home decided if they are seated 1/2 of their flute that was enough and got the MIG out and tack welded the top of the new pin to the hinge so it wouldn't move. A little paint on the weld and no one will ever know i did that. The end result is the same.

Cleaned up all the tools and mess around the job site and closed the door. Wow, the door is exactly where it was before, but why wouldn't it, there was nothing wrong with the bushing before you spent three days fixing something that wasn't broke. Thankfully the other side will be easier, new top hinge will make that much easier, no spring to contend with.
Rolled up the window, closed the door and turned off the shop lights, and the heat, and the water, it's cold here. The cold makes it hard to get motivated to pull the rest of the pass door apart to start the door seal install. The pass door is the guinea pig to see how the Fairchild seals fit. It get used like 1/20th the time the drivers door does. If i don't like the fit I'll buy something else and try it on the driver's side door.

Long post, yep, three cups of coffee and a Mon evening with the wood stove cranking downstairs, it's toasty here at the desk.
Will update later after the fight with the seal install on the pass side.
Bob

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