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#1057201 - 05/07/18 01:36 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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SSLance Offline
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I covet your rear suspension setup... Greatly!!! Nice work. Front ain't too shabby either...


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1057210 - 05/07/18 08:58 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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mmc427ss Offline
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I was hoping you were still making progress on the suspension. It's way to easy to get sidetracked. Keep plugging away.
The front UCA mounts are sweet, allows for changes later.
Can't wait to see how the rear setup fits when the body is on. Have been studying your Watts and find it interesting. Getting tailpipes to pass through that area is a challenge.
Bob

#1057217 - 05/08/18 04:11 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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MC96 Offline
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Heres something I should know but don't, whats the formula or general rule for offsetting your top link?


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1057219 - 05/08/18 06:20 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: MC96]  
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Warriorridge Offline
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Originally Posted by SSLance
I covet your rear suspension setup... Greatly!!! Nice work. Front ain't too shabby either...

Just bring your car, we can do it next. I think I could do a nicer job the 2nd time around.
Originally Posted by mmc427ss
I was hoping you were still making progress on the suspension. It's way to easy to get sidetracked. Keep plugging away.
The front UCA mounts are sweet, allows for changes later.
Can't wait to see how the rear setup fits when the body is on. Have been studying your Watts and find it interesting. Getting tailpipes to pass through that area is a challenge.
Bob

Yup, still making progress, hoping to test fit the body as soon as I can get some help to set it on. And you're right about the tailpipes. Getting everything to fit in the same area turned out to be a bit more difficult than I expected. I have a few ideas for the exhaust, but I'm not sure which ones will work out best. I'll figure somthing out.
Originally Posted by MC96
Heres something I should know but don't, whats the formula or general rule for offsetting your top link?

I'm afraid I don't have a formula, the general rule I went by is 8-12% of track width. Maybe you've seen this already, but I'm basing most of my rear suspension build on the info found HERE

#1057222 - 05/08/18 11:42 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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I have read a lot of Rons stuff but missed this one. He always has a good way of making you re think something or explaining it better than I can to myself.

I know on the circle track stuff we play with the "thrust angle" of the pull bars in a modified to gain some traction but thats a whole different deal.

I just looked up Petersburg by the way, my roommate in college was from Mt Union. Beautiful area.


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1057308 - 05/16/18 03:57 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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mmc427ss Offline
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Have also read Ron's stuff, it's takes several readings to digest what is said. But the info he does present is all good and about the only place you will get that much info. Very little info of that caliber on the web these days.
Haven't had the car to the computer rack yet, just can't find the time on thurs evenings, besides it seems to rain everyday of late. But when the chance to drive the car is there trying to put miles on it to get used to the changes.

May 27 running an autox at Harrisburg Farm Show lot, hoping it doesn't rain so the Hoosier A6s can be used. The street tires, BFG Comp II, tires take a beating on course and need to make them last. My 70 year old co-driver and I will be there for the afternoon session, he's my teacher. If you remember teachers were always older than us when we were kids.
Bob

#1057309 - 05/17/18 12:04 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: MC96]  
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MD
Originally Posted by MC96
Heres something I should know but don't, whats the formula or general rule for offsetting your top link?


offset = SVSA length / Gear ratio

SVSA is side-view swing arm, so the longitudinal distance from the wheel centerline to the side-view instant center of the arms.

It's surprisingly simple. A lot of terms cancel out.

#1057310 - 05/17/18 12:10 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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MD
Very impressive work!! This is definitely motivation for me to get back out there (although motivation isn't what I'm lacking at the moment laugh )

The sway bar mount is the last thing that I need to package in my CAD model. That's a pretty clever solution.

Are you using 3/16" plate for your coilover mounts, etc?

I like that front setup too.

We have the same welder!

Last edited by SickSpeedMonte; 05/17/18 12:11 PM.
#1057312 - 05/17/18 01:37 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: SickSpeedMonte]  
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MC96 Offline
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St. Johns MI
Originally Posted by SickSpeedMonte
Originally Posted by MC96
Heres something I should know but don't, whats the formula or general rule for offsetting your top link?


offset = SVSA length / Gear ratio

SVSA is side-view swing arm, so the longitudinal distance from the wheel centerline to the side-view instant center of the arms.

It's surprisingly simple. A lot of terms cancel out.


I guess a quick change rear and slotted lowers means Ill need quick adjust pucks.

https://www.dirtcarusa.com/products/quick-adjust-pucks

So dynamically something that has a very high gear ratio is going to develop a thrust angle based on throttle input?

Last edited by MC96; 05/17/18 01:41 PM.

86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1057325 - 05/18/18 03:26 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: MC96]  
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MD
Originally Posted by MC96


I guess a quick change rear and slotted lowers means Ill need quick adjust pucks.

https://www.dirtcarusa.com/products/quick-adjust-pucks

So dynamically something that has a very high gear ratio is going to develop a thrust angle based on throttle input?


That's a cool product. Would you feel comfortable running them on the street? Would they require constant inspection?

Offsetting the upper link offsets the anti-squat forces and pulls down on the passenger side of the axle. That counteracts the driveshaft torque that is trying to lift the passenger tire. I don't think it should be able to develop much thrust angle if the lower arms have sufficiently stiff bushings, but I guess it would be generating a moment that would tend to make that happen. A numerically higher gear ratio would have less of an offset though.

#1057429 - 05/26/18 04:56 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Finally got the car on the computer rack today. The goal was not to change caster/camber just see if the computer agreed with the numbers I dialed in.

On my home made rack front end settings:
Caster left and right at 9.5
Camber -1 degree left and right.
Toe out was taped measured in at 1/4" total toe out. Had played with that toe setting several times after the car was driven to get the steering wheel level on a non crowned road. With equal caster left and right and no crown compensation it's very good. Have an antique toe gauge I use which allows very accurate measurements.

On the computer rack today:
Caster left 9.6, caster right 9.6
Camber left -.9, right -.5
Total toe out .53 degrees. Left was .22 degrees and right was .31 degrees.
Using this calculator to change degrees to inches .53 degrees is about 1/4".
https://robrobinette.com/ConvertToeInchesToDegrees.htm


Not sure how that right camber is only -.5 degrees, not -1, but that is easy to check without putting the car back on my homemade rack.

The only adjustment made on the computer rack was I reduced the toe out to .35 degrees total and made toe out close to equal on each side. That .35 is equal to about 3/16" total toe out.

I wasn't able to see Ackermann on that machine. When you check caster it only gives you a green bar graph where you turn the pointer equally each side. But I do know what those numbers are from my turnplates. Ackermann could be more but that's a later project when, if, steering arms are modified.

Moved the rear end back 1/8" and adjusted all four links before today. Checked the UCAs length and reset for equal length there previous to today. Today was concerned about rear thrust angle. The computer said it was .09 degrees, I left it alone.

While up in the air it's much easier doing driverline angles at ride height. Difficult when you need to crawl under the car sitting on the floor. The Intercomp digital angle gauge is a sweet tool, one of the best tools I every bought for less than a 100 bucks. Engine/trans angle 4.1 down, pinion 3.1 up, driveshaft .5 degree down to the rear. Will leave it like that and see how it behaves at high speeds.

To check bump in droop we lifted the car by the front crossmember slowly and I could watch the toe change on the monitor. It was exactly what my homemade bumpsteer gauge told me. For the first inch of travel VERY slight toe in then goes toe out VERY little to full droop. The change is so subtle, and almost a straight line plot, very happy with the numbers in droop. It's difficult to check in compression on the rack so that wasn't done. But i do know what my bumpsteer gauge says, to much toe out at 1 1/2" compression, and that is another area that need to be addressed via centerlink and possibly steering arm changes.

Running my first autox this year on Sun afternoon in Harrisburg, Pa. Put the Hoosier A6s on the car Weds to scuff them and get a feel for them. About a 10 mile trip around the block with them and numerous extreme cutback, kinda like the Nascar boys cleaning off marbles. The Comp IIs were back on the car for the rack today and the 1 1/2 hour ride to the event on Sun. It's really looking like a rain event so the A6s may not make the trip, just run my street tires again. The PITA with the Hoosiers is four don't fit in the trunk. I pull the bottom of the back seat, plastic bag two tires and put them back there. Not about to put a trailer hitch on the car to pull a small trailer to stuff tires in. There was a Grand Sport Vette that did that, he drove long distances to make events. Ever see a Vette with a hitch?

Sun will have my 70 year old co driver with me again, he's much more experienced at autox, and not shy about beating on the car. The car will get twice as many runs with two drivers and hopefully I'll learn from him and get a better handle of what needs to be changed from the pass seat.
Being Sun will be a 12 hour day 8 instead of 4 runs will take some of the sting out of the day. Did i mention, I hate driving the car in the rain. Last Nov I ran an autox at Hershey Park on a soaked course, it poured all the way home. Did i mention i hate driving that car in the rain.
Bob

#1057435 - 05/26/18 03:35 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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SSLance Offline
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One thing you will notice is that with that much caster, changing the toe only a little will make drastic static camber changes. I bet that is what happened on the pass side.

Also, changes in ride height (like a driver sitting in the seat or adding a passenger) will affect static camber. My car drops a half inch on the driver side when I sit in it and this will change static camber about a half a degree with my current camber curves.

Welcome to the fine tuning stages!!!

Have fun Sunday, can't wait to hear how it went....


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1057543 - 05/31/18 06:59 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Whole bunch of updates since last Fri.
On Sat put my caster/camber gauge on the car just sitting on the shop floor, not the same as the computer rack numbers from Fri. Made a straight edge to measure angle across the rim using my digital angle gauge and I got the computer rack numbers. Found a good vertical steel surface that was dead on plumb via the magnetic digital angle gauge. Stuck the angle gauge next to the magnetic caster/camber gauge. My new caster camber gauge is off by close to .5 degree comparing it to the Intercomp gauge, a nice instrument to have. Removing the face plate on the caster/camber gauge allows access to zeroing the camber bubble, done. The car will revisit my alignment rack soon and be gone over again. As far as caster goes I set 9.5 on the nose with my gauge, the computer rack said 9.6, close enough.

Got the car ready for the 150 mile Sun road trip, umbrella, a chair, installed the cruise control rod, all the necessities. Did adj the shocks, added a fair amount of rebound all the way around, tire pressure and fluids. Everything in the car except the A6s, will make that decision Sun morning.
Went home and cooked two nice T bones at 6 pm for the wife's 45th year of putting up with me.

It poured very early Sun morning, and poured again at 8 am, local flooding in areas close. The weatherman was no help, looked like an all day-er to me so the A6s stayed at home. Out the door an hour later than planned, up the round dodging puddles but only 15 miles into the 1 1/2 hr the roads were dry. Go figure. At the autox it was good almost all day until late in the afternoon. The car got wet on my 4th and 5th runs but didn't effect the course. Didn't see rain the rest of the day. Another coulda, shoulda day.

So how was the car and driver? Well the two old guys in the old Detroit iron didn't fair to well. My first run ran wide of the carousel, missed a gate the 2nd, off course. My co driver ran two clean runs and said he was done for the day, light headed and dizzy. He's still suffering from his 10 day stint in an Altanta hospital in Jan. He made 4 runs in Nov in the car and said after Sun's two runs the car was noticeable better in the front. Some positive feedback.
I made 3 more clean runs, two by myself and the 5th with a friend who made the trip with me. As far as how did this old guy do, well he knows there is a large learning curve on how to get around quickly. and old people are slow to learn. Running one or two events a year doesn't help, we also forget quickly. As much as I hate to post it here's the days results, we run SM with the car.
http://www.scca-susq.com/latest-new...-results/2018-ax-results-event-6-527-pm/

How was the car is the big question. Well the front end is everything expected. Point it where you want it to go and it obeys, no understeer at all, turn in is great. The back end is another issue. pretty much chased the rear on most every turn at speed. But I knew this was going to happen. From the 200 or so miles of back road driving previous to the event it was evident. One of the reasons i really wanted to run the A6s instead of my street tire. Found these three videos of last corner before the finish. A shifter cart at 35 sec, the quickest car of the day, and the old man and his dog waging it's tail.
https://www.facebook.com/james.cron...8386836370/?type=3&theater&ifg=1

The only casualty of the day was a broken weld on the right tailpipe hanger. Funny, just fixed the left side at the same spot a few weeks ago. The stainless exhaust system is very rigid, it's treated as part of the chassis. My co driver wheel hopped the rear suspension under very heavy braking at the finish line on his second run which I think broke the hanger. The car has never done that before, something to think about, the cause.

Did a quick chassis/tire visual check, things to note:
The rear Viking shocks could be shorter. The travel indicators are almost topped out, still ok, but if the car was lower in the back the shocks would need to be shortened. Now using a very small tie wrap on the shafts of the back shocks, Viking black O-rings didn't last to long. Front Vikings now have green O-rings were reinstalled a few weeks ago. Will check travel indicators on the front shocks soon. The front Vikings were sent back to Viking and shortened 3/8" right after initial install year ago.

Tires. Both rear tires left a very light rub on the frame, on the rearward side. This is a typical rub area for fat tires, but I didn't have it before moving the rear axle rearward 1/8". Will repaint the frame on those rub areas. Actually not sure if that rubbing didn't happen when the fatter A6s were on the car last week.
A HUGE dividend from the months of playing with the front end ball joint relocation was there is ZERO tire rub at 9 1/2 degrees caster. In the past at only 5 degree caster I had very light rub from anything in excess of 26 degrees turn out. Moving the ball joint forward 11/16" get full credit for all the room there now at 9 1/2 degrees caster.
With fat tires on most cars at full lock left and right the tire may touch or rub either the sway bar or frame in the rear. With about 400 miles since putting the front suspension back together no evidence of touch anywhere, not bad for a max turning angle of 30 degrees, Didn't have rubbing previously, the combination of the XH steering box's internal stops, zero offset 8" wheels, 10,3" section width tires and the B spindle's .440" offset makes all that possible. When the LCA pivot relocation was calculated keeping the same track width as before was another goal, it stayed the same.
At the top inside of the wheel well, not a mark either. The right side did have some rubbing from years of previous abuse. Despite the computer saying camber was -.9 left and -.5 right there is no rub. When I dial in a little more camber next time around there should be less of a chance for rub. COOL. You do have to give the ZQ8 bump stops some credit though, they do take some of the hit out of a full compression load.
Tires both front and rear looked good, fronts showed a little more wear in the outer edge blocking which is a good thing I think, that means I'm using that area. Wear across the tread was even, fronts didn't show any sign of scrubbing from the 3/16" toe out up front. The trip on Sun was 150 miles with the cruise set at 72 mph, taching 2350 with 4.11, a T56 with cruise is a sweet thing. Will continue to run that much toe out to see how it impacts the tread wear.

Checked ride heights with the car back on the slab at the shop. Both fronts are 26 1/2" without me in the car, backs are L 27 1/4", R 27 5/8" on a 1/2 tank, right where they have been for years. The 26 1/2" front is right where I wanted to be with the 26" tall street tires. The A6s are 1/2" shorter, makes that 26 1/4"

Once the tailpipe hanger is fixed I'll wash the dirt off the car and take it to a car show this weekend, that's where old people go to relive the past, and there is no pressure to perform there.

Took five GoPro videos on my slow runs with it stuck to the inside at the rearview mirror. Might figure out a way to put one on Youtube.
Bob

Last edited by mmc427ss; 05/31/18 07:02 AM.
#1057769 - 06/14/18 05:32 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Not sure why it's necessary to keep posting to this topic, contributions to forums is slower than a snail's pace currently, so you can also assume readers are to busy socially texting. But anyway couple updates.

Now 500 miles on the front end mods, nothing but good things to say about it. Moving the lower ball joint forward has only rewards, no downside has shown up yet. Will add a little more camber, -1 1/4 degree, stay at 9 1/2 caster, 3/16" toe out next time on the rack, run 500 miles and see what the tires tell me.

Fixed the tailpipe hanger and while there flipped the rear springs side to side and installed new GM cushions top and bottom. No change in ride height in the back after the swap so it's not the springs that create different ride heights side to side in the rear, right rear has always been higher by 3/8" or so. One observation was measured the rear height with about an 1/8 tank of gas, put 11 gallons of of 93, ouch 40 bucks, and measured again. Because the tank sits more to the left ride height reflected more drop on the left side, expected but didn't give it much thought prior.

Playing with the rear setup now. Have had a Spohn adj rear bar in the car for years now, on the street always ran it full soft, at the drags would set full stiff to help the launch. Always found the full stiff setting a nuisance on the street, rear oversteer unpredictable. Less rear bar seemed better before the front susp mods. Trying the middle setting on the bar currently to see effect on the tail happy car. The Viking shocks are now set at 5 and 5 in the rear and keeping an eye on the shock travel indicators, tie wraps on the shafts, at that soft shock setting. That was my normal street shock setting for a few years. My 9 year grandson and I put about 40 miles the past two days on the car so could't scare him to much but can say first indications are a little less oversteer.
Would like to find a place to run a 200' skid pad, they're hard to find.

With a LCA pivot relocation also done years ago, fabbed my own setup, now have stock, 1 1/2"or 2 1/2" drop. Street and autox the 1 1/2" drop has always been used, drags the 2 1/2" location is used. The 2 1/2" setting doesn't drive well on the street, car always felt unsettled at highway speeds. It's used only for the drags and changed back shortly afterwards, takes about 20 minutes. At some point in time the rear suspension pickup points will be measured to include the three setting for the LCA. Accurately locating the rear roll center need to be done at all three locations.

Will four corner scale the car again, can borrow the scales and do it in my shop. Don't expect anything to change from when it was done 6 or 8 years ago. I've lost about 10 pounds since then, the car has got fatter. Front/rear bias will still be terrible, F 58.75, R 41.25, of course the front left will still be the heavy corner. Nose heavy won't change, it's what it is.

Carlisle coming up soon, another 200 mile road trip to see how the car's manners are at 70-75 mph for an hour or so. The trip across the Pa Turnpike last month was sweet, tracking, feel, easy to drive, wouldn't know it had that much caster in the car.

Have another set of B spindles coming my way to play with. Will get them stripped first then start another round of seeing how to "adjust" the steering arm angle. Need to hook up with someone that has all the proper procedures/equipment to "adjust" them. It can be done but it's tedious.

Looking at schedules for local autox and trying to figure out how to get the next one in. Two regions to pick from but neither are really close and their dates are lousy for me. Will run a Fri night at Maple Grove soon, need to see if the car still pulls in 3rd and 4th gears. Around here anymore it hard to run the car to 120 on the street.
Bob

#1058017 - 06/29/18 04:50 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Not much to update on the front suspension after 850 miles on the mods. Notably the the front tires are showing no feathering of the tread running 3/16" toe out yet. About 350 miles of the 850 is at 70 mph on the turnpike.

Ride height up front is at 26 1/2" per side as desired and hasn't changed since initial setup.

Chasing a few minor issues with the car before going back on the rack.
Pulled the Stewart water pump to change the seepage at the block gaskets, pulled the 4 core rad and had to have one tube eliminated to fix a leak there , flushed the system and went with a Zerex G-05 antifreeze. Should be good now for another ten years.

Run Mobil 1 ATF in the T56. After many years developed a leak at the plug in the driveshaft slip yoke plug. Pulled the Denny's shaft, removed the yoke and had the plug TIGed. After the 200 mile Carlisle trip the leak was worse than before. Pulled the yoke again, the weld had a crack in it. Back to the TIG again, this time was done with silicone bronze wire. Lesson learned, use the silicone bronze wire when welding the plug.

Oil pressure gauge went stupid after sustained 70+, 200 mile trip. Stock 60 lb gauge was refaced and changed to an 80 psi gauge years ago with an 80 lb sender to match. Have replaced the sender a few times now, they are all imported. Have had GM, Standard Motors and most recently an Echlin which are all coming off the same assemble line. Bought another Standard and a Wells to try again. These senders use a carbon element with a wiper arm, I was told the vibration from the engine causes the arm to lose tension over time. Dissecting the old sender will need to be done.

After these minor problems are resolved it's back on the rack, a little more camber will be added, same caster and toe out. Then it's look to see when another autox can be done.

The second set of B spindles showed up at my door a week ago, will be pursuing what can be done to add Ackermann to them. Improving bump will come via the centerlink.
Bob

#1059089 - 09/16/18 04:39 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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It's been awhile since an update. With it raining pretty much all of July and Aug this year putting miles on the 86 has been difficult. Currently almost 1000 since doing the front end changes, lately they come in 10 or 20 miles jaunts through the countryside looking for nice corners and no people.
Now with the cold days just around the corner i thought It would be a good idea to finally get the car setup on my homemade alignment rack and go through all the numbers again.

Having two sets of numbers already, my initial alignment numbers done on my rack and later the numbers from the computer rack alignment I did 5/25. I had set -1.25 camber each side, the computer said it was -.9 and -.5, hmmm. The Caster numbers and toe out were almost dead on what i had set and what the computer said they were, 9.5/9.5, computer said 9.6/9.6.

Now it's time to look at the camber accuracy of the new caster/camber gauge. Using the Intercomp digital angle gauge and a Starrett 6" Machinist level I found the caster/camber was off roughly a 1/2 degree right out of the box. Removing the cover plate allows access to the camber calibration screws, the only vial of the 4 that is adjustable. After numerous tweaks, checks the camber vial now is spot on and reads true.

The car now setup on the rack and getting virtually the same numbers the computer rack produced, -.75/-.75 camber, 9.5/9.6 caster. Don't care about the toe because I had tweaked the tie rods to level the steering wheel and knew it was toed out a little more than an 1/8" total. Now have a reliable caster/camber gauge. Just using a straight edge and the Intercomp gauge on the hub face gets the same number, so good to go.

This alignment goal is to have -1.25 camber, 9.5 camber on each side. This actually turned out to be pretty easy. Adding a .115" shim to all four locations and hit the numbers right away, L -1.25/9.4, R -1.25/9.5, toe out 1/8" total. Things like that don't happen to often. Done!
Shim stack thickness on three of the four stacks ranges from .242 to .334". The odd ball is the right rear at .596" to get that 9.5 caster number. Justin started this post long time ago with just that question, "why is this bracket not welded where it should be?"

Ran a bunch of camber numbers on the rack. At -1.25 static camber what is the number at 20 degrees turn in, turn out. This is basically what all this "more caster than SAI" thing is all about.
Camber at 20 degrees turned out is L +3.3. R turned out +3.5.
Camber at 20 Degrees turned in is L -3.25, R -3.25
Camber at full lock 30 degrees turned out is L+5.2, R+5.2
Camber at full lock 30 degrees turned in L -3.9, R -4.0.
That's a good bit of positive camber, the 86's tires looks like one of those expensive Mercedes at full lock in a parking lot.

Checked Ackermann again, still sucks, about 1 1/2 degrees, would love to see more than twice that. A result from moving the lower ball joint forward 11/16" should have improved that number because the tie rod moved forward also. Didn't see much improvement there. Still looking at steering arm mods to help the cause.

Bumpsteer. Remembering how bad it was before making a centerlink to reduce it by 60% 10 years ago, and now how much better it is again after the balljoint relocation a quick toe change measurement shows less than 1/4" total at full droop. That number was well over 1" back at the beginning of the B spindle swap.
Weather permitting looking to make a few passes at Maple Grove next Fri night, first time out this year. Excessive toe in (bump) at launch until the car settle down slows a car down. Maybe an 11.95 is in sight now, not.
Bob

#1059096 - 09/16/18 09:16 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,681
SSLance Offline
10+ Year
SSLance  Offline
10+ Year
Member

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,681
Peoria, AZ
Go get it Bob!!! You can DO IT!!!


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1059109 - 27 minutes ago Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 4,064
mmc427ss Offline
15+ Year
mmc427ss  Offline
15+ Year
Member

Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 4,064
Pottstown, Pa
NHRA Dodge Nationals were at Maple Grove this past weekend. Unfortunately the remnants of hurricane Florence are passing through this area Tues/Weds and will wash the track surface of the good prep that was put down. I always get to the track very early to take advantage of getting two quick passes before the crowd gets there. Maple Grove changed management this year and racers say it has improved from what it was. Previously they took your 20 bucks at a test and tune and forgot about you.
Looking to make two passes on street tires and two with the slicks to see how the car does now. Engine has almost 20K in it since I put it together 11 years ago. How it pulls in 3rd and 4th gear is always the gauge of performance, looking for a 115 trap speed on the old truck engine.
Had minor surgery on my back this morning, not supposed to play golf for two weeks, makes the drags look more like the choice for Fri.
Bob

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