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#1056530 - 03/21/18 03:48 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Being this is a snow week here, 12" expected today, another white event this weekend, driving the car won't happen for a while. I have a stock centerlink sitting, I may swap it in and run some number to see just how bad those number would be.

I've read about corrections to change bump. Shortening the tie rods would mean moving the inner outboard on the centerlink. That can't happen as the left tie rod would hit the frame when turned right. tried that before.
With all the caster now the outers have gone up about 1/2". What is surprising is with the link in the car now, 11/16" lower inner tie rods, how actually good the bump on droop is. But, it's still toe in, and has that rapid increase in toe in at full compression from 1" to 2".
I don't know if it's possible to get basically stock steering geometry to go toe out at droop while getting closer to zero bump in on compression.
Bob

#1056620 - 03/26/18 05:07 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Had very little time over the past week or so to work on the car. My wife has been in the hospital for the past 10 days, kidney failure, dialysis starts tomorrow. As a long time diabetic it's one of the outcomes as you get up in years. She, we, will get through this, hopefully it's just another one of those crossroads of life.

Spend time improving the bump gauge I made. Reinforced the back side of the wheel plate to take the flex out of the stainless plate. Now the dial indicator readings are very consistent and repetitive. Shortened the height of the stand to increase the range of ride height setup. Got all the steel painted with a quick coat of black. Laid out a scale on the wheel plate to easily see where you are at.
The gauge is done, very accurate and easy to setup. And it folds up into a nice package to stow away or ship.

Tonight managed to take another group of measurements from the right side with the now more accurate gauge. In my haste previously to see how it worked I misinterpreted what i was seeing on the dial indicator. Expecting to see toe in it was toe out I was seeing. Huh, stupid me.

Tonight numbers were;
At 1" droop .004" toe in
At 2" droop .005" toe out
At 3" droop .020" toe out
At 4" droop .021" toe out

At 1" comp .048" toe out
At 1 1/2" comp .078" toe out
At 2" comp .125" toe out

Factoring in my gauge reads at 24" width, a 26" tire would add 8% to those numbers. So total toe change at 3" droop would be .043" increase in toe out from ride height. At 1/12" compression total would be .168" increase in toe out from ride height.

Camber at ride height read 3/4 degree negative.
Camber at full droop was .25 degree positive.
Camber at full compression, 2", was 2 3/4 degrees negative.
Supposedly with the way I constructed the gauge it takes camber out of the equation for checking bump.

Now that I figured out what I'm looking at for numbers, out instead of in, dummy, the effect on Ackermann can be evaluated. Would think while cornering hard one side is in droop and getting a very small amount of toe out added. The other side is in compression and getting a lot of toe out added. Because the compression side is carrying most of the load through the corner the added toe causes you to correct by adding steering input, that is transferred to the droop side as more turning angle helping that side. Gotta think this all through again.
From what I've read bump in is a no-no, if you have bump you want bump out.

I'll rerun all this again just so i know i wasn't stupid twice. Then put the car together and get it out of the shop. My Astro van needs front brakes and ball joints for inspection in April, the daughter's car needs a resonator and front brakes. It'll be nice to do some no brainer car stuff for a change.
Bob

#1056625 - 03/26/18 02:17 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Hope the wife gets on the mend quickly Bob. That takes a priority over all this car stuff for sure.

I have a feeling you are going to love how it drives now, and especially love how it'll corner when driven hard.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1056648 - 03/27/18 04:13 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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#1056663 - 03/29/18 03:45 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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That sure is pretty. Black hard anodizing is my favorite color.
Which series shock is that?
Bob

#1056665 - 03/29/18 03:43 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Its an afco 68 series, but with UMI specific valving.

#1056688 - 04/01/18 05:50 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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With only a few hours here and there lately not much time to get this car out the door.

Pulled the left side apart to shim the spring and run bump numbers on it. Right and left sides almost mirror their results, the right side with slightly more toe out across the board. The left at full droop is .014" more bump out (.035"), at 1 3/4" compression the left is .025" more bump out (.120"). Both show the initial .008" toe in at 1" droop before toeing out from 1" to 3 3/4" droop. The droop numbers I can live with. The compression excessive toe out over 1" is too extreme. What I'd like to see is basically the reverse of what my numbers are. Increase the toe out as the car droops which could help the Ackermann on the inside tire. Of course excessive bump out in droop is as bad as toe in at droop when you're traveling straight ahead. Reduce the high toe out as compression increases on the outside tire side which can't be good.The AFCO 30271 metric improved centerlink for the G will be purchased so i can see exactly what they improved. From what I can gather the inner tie rods are moved outboard 1/2 to 3/4" each side which should reduce toe out. As Justin suggested this shortens the tie rod overall length, should remove some of the toe out. . The Afco centerlink is cheap enough that I can do the same thing I did to a stock Moog centerlink. Move the inner location up or down to also tune the bump. When last I played with inner locations I found the stock centerlink would not allow me to move the inner toe rod outboard on the left side as it would hit the crossmember and not allow a full right turn. The Afoc centerlink appears to turn the bar a little so the inner doesn't hit the crossmember. The only way to see what they did and whether i can cut it up to make what I want is to have one in hand. Only need to know what else i need from Summit to get free ship.

After checking bump on the left side a 1/16" alum shim was added on top of the spring cushion. The spring reinstalled and this time the end of the spring in the LCA spring pocket was turned to align in the center of the left hole. Not centered or favoring the right, lower hole. Ride height increased 5/16" to 26 3/4". A little higher than I'd like but the 26" tall tires i run at 37 psi will like it. Before all this suspension work started both sides were 26 7/8"on these tires, for years ran a shorter tire and was always around 26 1/2", even the A6s are that height.

Got the right side ready to pull the spring again, it's still at 26 5/16" height. Made a 3/16" alum shim. Will remove the 1/16" in there now, add the 3/16, see where the spring end is relative to the holes in the LCA before removing it and tweak from there. Looking for 26 3/4" but will settle for a tad less, but not more.

Oh, and going to get a scrub radius number before finally getting put back together. Inquiring minds need to know.
Bob

#1056700 - 04/02/18 03:58 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Doing a little more looking at the Afco 30271 specs the distance between the pitman and idler is increase a little over 1 1/8" which doesn't work for me. Also the inner rod spread goes from 13" to 15.56" So that centerlink is out. Memory not being quite what it used to be I remember reading the issues with that centerlink now. So none of the available centerlinks, Afco, Keyser, Allstar, or stock work for me. But i know once i model the new centerlink Johnson Chassis can make me what ever i want. I still think i need to move the inners outboard to achieve the goals.

When i get back to the bump reduction I will tack weld the inner to different locations to see effect on bump, just as i did the process 8 years ago, trial and error. Only this next time I will have an accurate bump gauge to check results.
Bob

#1056729 - 04/03/18 03:30 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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This morning, like 6:30 am, got a few hours with the car. Pulled the right spring and changed the alum shim from 1/16 to 3/16". Realized when I removed the thin alum shim taped to the top of the spring that it was deformed by the top spring pocket. The new 3/16 would be a problem. Installed now the 3/16 shim is on top of the spring with the 1/4" cushion on top of the shim. The cushion raises the shim out of the groove's bottom in the pocket where it is very tight. There appears to be enough of the top spring coil wrapped around the seat's inner ears to locate the spring. Shouldn't be a problem. And over the next hundred miles those pieces should settle in. The springs will be out again for another round of bump adjustment in the future. What goes on in those upper pockets will be apparent them.

Installed the spring and set the bottom spring end at the same location as the left side, center of the left hole. This should add a little ride height. Dropped the car back on all four, rolled it back and forth a dozen times, worked the springs a dozen time while doing the dance, DONE. 26 3/4" both sides. Will be interesting to where height goes after everything is said, and done.

Removed the right tire again, set that spindle at ride height under load. Now it's easy to get a good number on scrub radius. Wow, less than previous guesstimate of 3 3/4". Running the B spindle and a zero offset wheel have 2 7/8", a tad excessive but not a killer. One of the nice things about that is track width is a tick under 60", almost a full 1 1/2" more than a stock SS.

Finally ready to do a complete install of the front suspension and final alignment on it. I can't believe I can say that. The goal was back out on the road by Mar 1, glad the weather hasn't been very pretty, good excuse for being so slow getting things done.
Bob

#1056774 - 04/04/18 11:54 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Bob hope the wife is doing better

Happened upon this earlier

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

I think an improvement on this design would be a horizontal key/slug hole. By using bump studs in the heims to the pitman and idler (or drilling them out and using bolts) you can change the pick up points up and down, and with the key in and out. Ackerman would be adjustable with a stand off to change your fore and aft.

It could also be built to clear all the f41 bars and bar mount.

It would be trick!


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1056779 - 04/05/18 05:17 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Thanks for the info Mason. When I get back to tweaking the bump I pretty much have a game plan. Will full scale model the linkage, again, and figure out what direction the links need to go. To improve Ackermann the steering arms need to move outboard. They can only move less than 1/2" and the net gain is still small. Moving the lower ball joint forward helped Ackermann, won't know how much I added until I get the alignment done in a few days. Going to see is i can get some additional inside tire toe out angle via the bump at droop. My current modded steering linkage adds to much toe out in compression, droop is actually pretty good. It's not a big deal to mod a Moog DS909, been there done that before deciding to go the high caster route.

The car is all back together, actually drove it a 1/4 mile today to settle the suspension a little. A trip later this week to the gas station to fill to 3/4 tank and it's then time to put my numbers into the alignment. Sometime in the next few months will revisit the bump, hate to lose driving time over the warmer months so downtime will be minimal. I've got two stock center links sitting just waiting to be cut up. Can tack together my educated guess centerlink and do it's install and run the numbers. Easily swap back to what I currently run if not happy with the new link. Also I'm not a fan of rod ends on a street driven car, will maintain the stock tie rods.

Working on the car was been very limited the past month, my wife is now on dialysis three days a week so my priority is her. Today she had severe stomach pains. tonight in the ER, admitted, tomorrow it's the gall bladder doctor. After spending two weeks in the hospital for the kidneys it made tonight much easier, you know the drills.
Bob

#1056862 - 04/11/18 02:26 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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A couple more short sessions and the front end is done. Kept a pretty good log on all the alignment specs from before the car was touched and up to the dialed in final setup. Ended up with -1 camber, 9 1/2 caster, 1/8 total toe out. Did about 8 different shim combos on each side, -1 to -1 1/2 degree to see what could be had for max caster. The UCA frame brackets don't mirror each other. Justin's saw this on his frame. I'll need to do a visual again and compare that to what he found on his frame. The left side UCA shim stacks worked out very nicely at the above set up specs, F .190", R .230", lots of range for adjustment, could get a lot more caster,12+ with good camber. The right side max caster was much less even before the LCA mods. Now with F.135", R.465"shims to get 9 1/2 caster there is not much to be had from there, maybe 10 1/2. The right side has been the odd man out thru this entire project, it's different. IF, the body ever gets lifted off that would be addressed, ain't in the plans.

While spending a lot of time turning the tires left and right on the turnplates the payoff to this long Winter project just jumps out at you. At 20 degrees there is now 3 1/2 degrees positive camber turned out, 3.1 degrees neg camber turned in, that was 1 pos and 2 neg with the old setup. Can't wait to put some miles on the car.

Should find a few hours to lengthen the rear LCA 1/8" tomorrow, check the driveline angles, Then it's pull the green tape off the sides, wash the filthy car and get it on the 4 wheel rack ASP.

Ackermann is less than I'd like and didn't gain much if any from moving the lower ball joints forward 11/16", only about 1 to 1 1/2 degrees at both 20 and 30 degrees, would have like a few degrees more than that. Still looking at steering arm mods to get better Ackermann. The high bump steer toe out in compression, .090-.120" at 1 3/4", may actually make that worse, haven't really figured out the negative effects of that yet. More toe out didn't help the Ackermann numbers. Hope to address that excess toe out in compression when the bump correction part of this project is done. That's down the roads. For now the bump is very livable and much better than expected, especially in droop which has always been a problem with the B spindle swap.Toe out in droop now is only .022" at 3" each side in droop. When the bump corrections are done will look at bump when turning to get a true understanding of what all this really looks like.

Anybody else have an Erector Set when they were kids? I blame my father for getting me one for Christmas, the fascination never ends.
Bob


Last edited by mmc427ss; 04/11/18 04:06 AM.
#1056864 - 04/11/18 04:22 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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I was to poor growing up yo have an erector set... laugh

You are going to crap at how well your car will turn now when driven in anger. I can't wait to read your reaction.

Hope the wife is doing well Bob...


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1056880 - 04/13/18 04:36 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Lengthen the rear LCAs and UCAs 1/8" last night. Checked driveline angles before and will reset pinion after a long drive on Fri. With the front ball joints forward 11/16" and the rear moved back another 1/8" that get the wheelbase close to 109". The front track width is 60" with the B spindle and the rear track width is 59 7/8". All that makes for a not to stock suspension anymore.

Washed the 3 months of dirt off the car tonight, ready for a long road test. Boy am I happy to put an end to this part of the project. Spent several months laying on a cold concrete floor, wouldn't you know it tomorrow it will be 80s here, probably will need to run the A/C.

We weren't rich either. Just had a father who thought I need to be able to work with my hands and tools. He also gets credit for buying me my first ride. A red fire truck pedal car, 1957, wish i still had it. Only pics of it now.

Painted an 87 Monte SS matchbox car black a couple days ago. My 5 year old grandson insisted that i change the color on his SS to match mine. He keeps asking if my 86 is ready to roll yet. Car show circuit starts very soon here. Guess the wife gets booted out of the passenger seat and a child seat get put in for him.
Bob

#1056900 - 04/14/18 03:34 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Put some miles on the car today. Wouldn't you know it, Fri afternoon, first 80+ day in 6 months and everyone else is out and about clogging the highways. Put about 35 miles looking for good corners. The few places i could play the car is noticeably better, turn in and front grip is WOW, what a difference. But it just means more work now, need to tune the rear suspension. A few corners and you could feel the rear wanting to come around at the wrong time. With exception of maybe a spring change the rest of the parts are in place, just need to work on the setup.

Tomorrow will check/reset the pinion angle. The steering wheel is just a hair low right, a quick adjustment. Would like to try a little more toe out but I also drag race the car. Currently 1/8" total toe out, The car tracks great at speed, only 65 mph, traffic. Adding more toe out would help turn in, which is very good now. Just curious what more would feel like. Some what say that is getting greedy.

Drag racing, for years lived with a car that had terrible toe in at droop, made a new centerlink which reduced that considerably. But with 3" droop at launch the toe in was still to much, potentially slowing the car down for the first hundred foot. Now no longer have have toe in at droop. The bump from ride to 3" is only .020" toe out each side, and with 1/8" toe out set that's only .165" toe out at 3". Compared to the old setup that is a major improvement. Another plus for the camber change which raised the outer toe rod, which changed an excessive toe in to a very good toe out at droop and OK in comp. The compression toe out is still excessive and will be dealt with later.
But at the drag strip the current bump should work well.
The good days are getting closer, need more seat time.
Bob

#1056904 - 04/14/18 10:32 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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It's a WHOLE lot better in the front...isn't it? laugh

And you didn't notice any ill effects from all the caster either I bet.

I know the feeling the first time you turn in aggressively and it actually turns, it's eye opening. When is the first autocross?

We've slept in the new house two nights now, most all of the house stuff is moved, won't start moving garage stuff until after the floors are coated next week. Landscapers started early on Friday and made great progress. Hectic as all get out right now but should calm down later next week.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1056914 - 04/15/18 02:27 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Had the car out again today after tweaking the steering wheel, checking the driveline angles before takeoff.. For some reason the new fangled Intercomp angle gauge, which should be a lot more accurate than the plastic pointer behind a plastic window indicator, says the E/T is down 4.0 degrees. Nothing really changed, the 'inexpensive" gauge said 3 1/2. Driveshaft is 1 degree down, pinion is now 3 degrees up after the UCA and LCA were lengthened 1/8". Will raise the pinion to 3.25 degrees and make a few test hits, always looking to minimize wheelhop. Maybe Santa will bring me a lift someday, tired of jackstands.

Went to a couple familiar corners. It's going to take a little time to get use to the car. Turn in and just how well the front end gets around the corner line is scary. Need to find out when the rear end become the helper and not what's it up to next. That's the scary part. Back many moons ago it was real easy to find roads where no one lived, or had cell phone. Today it's a 1/2 hour drive out to play. Next on the list.

Yesterday did a quick U-turn in a parking lot, sometime rarely done. Was surprised the turning circle was tight and the front end gave no indication it was annoyed by the u-turn. Might need to get the 50' tape measure out and do that again. Curious what that real number is. With only 30-31 degrees full lock and the wheelbase stretched an inch would be surprised if close to 40'. A stock SS is 40' between the walls.

Oh, effects of increased steering effort with all the caster, NO. I've been running an XH box for 20 years, modified valving in the original stock pump to bump up the flow and pressure. It has been a very good box, just rebuilt a couple years ago and added a cooler. The XH is a high effort box, noticeable higher than the stock YA. Even with all that caster can still say effort and feel is very good.

How does the new bed feel? As Judy Garland once said, "there is no place like home".

May 13 and 27 in Harrisburg, and May 7 (Warminster) and 14 (Wells Fargo Stadium lot), in Philly. One is 45 miles the other 75, have no idea yet when or which to attend. My 70 year old co driver is in CA right now working a Porsche event. Need to compare notes with him yet. Need to go use up a set of Hoosiers.
Bob

#1056967 - 04/20/18 06:14 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Tonight with the car on stands the pinion angle was tweaked again, now 3.2 up was 3.0 While the rear was hanging the springs could be removed and swapped side to side to see if that would change ride height on either side. Didn't have to remove the rear shocks to get the springs out, could compress the spring enough by hand to clear the lower seat, yippee.
The car has always sat higher in the right rear. A factory top and bottom rubber cushion has also been installed each side for years. The top is larger OD and a fairly soft 3/8" thick rubber. The stock bottom cushion is thinner, about 1/8" and softer. New bottoms were installed and the springs swapped. Need to drive the car tomorrow to settle things but it appears the L side went up and the R is about the same as before. Won't know the real number till after the drive but appears maybe good results. The alignment shop I use has four corner scales. It's been many years since the car was scaled, backs were L 782, R 786 with driver then.

Have played with toe several times, now at 1/4" total toe out. Will run that until the car gets to the rack to see what the computer says. The gauge I use is one your grandfather used back in the day, slightly modified to read toe off the center groove on the tire. Very accurate and free was the right price.
The steering wheel is level, car tracks great at speed, doesn't wander under hard braking. Time will tell if the 255/50 tire scuff at that much toe out. Of course road crown, potholes and in general all of Pa's highways leave something to be desired but the car behaves very well despite lousy roads.
Bob

#1057009 - 04/23/18 08:40 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Have had the car out several times over the weekend, maybe another 100 miles and can say it drives great and you wouldn't know that there is 9 1/2 degrees caster in the car. It doesn't pull to either side even on the crappy high crown roads here. Out on the highway at 60-70 it's a dream, tracks straight, one finger on the wheel.

My wife's car is a low miles 02 SS, upgraded sway bars and tires. The W chassis is not a bad handler, struts, rack and pinion, lots of Ackermann, independent rear susp, the bigger bars fixed the body roll. Can say Ii like the 86 feel now more than the 02 .

Need to double check the 86's rear UCAs to insure they are equal length, the car pulls to the left slightly at launch on street tires. Not a big deal other than the fact the left tailpipe is in the way to get an accurate center to center measurement, right side is easy.

The right rear is still about 1/2" higher than the left side after switching springs. Several others have noted that over the years. Won't do anything to that until i see the corner weights again. I have a funny feeling that it may have something to do with the frame getting tweaked at hard launches which cause the frame to be loaded upward. i should look back at my body bushing height measurements to see if there is something there. All the poly bushings from #3 back were machined to fit when that project was done. The Delrin #1 and #2 bushings were also machined to fit. all are shorter than new rubber or poly. That was done so the body to frame clearance remained the same as the original worn/crushed rubber bushings. This maintained the same body to frame measurement so the driveshaft loop remained centered on the shaft, brake hard lines, T56 tunnel clearance, and a few other body to frame connections weren't impacted that way.

Happy motoring, yep!
Bob

#1057010 - 04/23/18 09:48 PM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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I knew that you'd love it... Did you see my videos from yesterday yet?


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1057016 - 04/24/18 04:01 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
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Had the car out all day Sun and Mon, trying to rack up some miles on it, wish I could avoid the gas stations, need to buy a lighter right shoe.

Email me the link to your Sun runs.

Today painted a front sway bar picked at the U-pull on Sun to replace the hollow bar on my Astro. Had to look at a dozen vans to find one worth pulling. The hollow bars will either rust internally at the end or fatigue crack where the ends are crimped. The Astro bar is cracked. Back in Dec the GM Perf parts 34mm installed on my wife's 02 SS shortly after purchasing new was replaced for the same reason, cracked at the end. The top 1/2 on one side actually fell off when the link was removed. You need to keep an eye on these hollow bars when they are subject to the harsh Winters and wet all the time. The 86 has a 36mm F-body hollow bar which doesn't show any signs or this. And there is a backup 36 sitting in the sway bar rack. Also see no clearance issue between the 36 bar and the outer tie rods and frame. The only thing noticeable is because the lower ball joint is 11/16" forward the alignment of the sway bar link to the LCA is off, not plumb in the front to rear plane. I thought about MIG'ing the link hole in the arm closed and moving the hole rearward to better align the link but the gain would be minimal, you just run out of flat real estate. Canned that idea. At some point may weld on a bracket to the LCA and use a link like most of the aftermarket arms are doing now.
Bob

#1057090 - 04/30/18 04:21 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 4,064
mmc427ss Offline
15+ Year
mmc427ss  Offline
15+ Year
Member

Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 4,064
Pottstown, Pa
Have doing a little looking at what the aftermarket is using for sway bar links using rod ends. Various ways of doing it but the Spohn link is something I may duplicate somewhat. Because the stock link hole in the 86s LCA needs to be move rearward the Spohn's bolt in lower bracket won't work. A weld on bracket will be made. Will call Spohn to see what length their different links are for various applications. Sourcing the parts to make quality links isn't hard, just requires several venders and can get pricey for good rod ends. It does appear Spohn has pretty neat spacers in the bottom bracket to allow good articulation of the rod end. May just buy the Spohn links and adapt them.
https://www.spohn.net/shop/1978-198...G-Body-Regal-Malibu-Monte-Carlo-etc.html

We may be in for a couple nice days this week, should be able to drive the car several times. Should make a trip to the drag strip to clean the cob webs out and get a feel for the car at 120, about the only place left to go that fast anymore.
Ride height has settle out to 26 5/8" in the front with the 26" tires so happy about that. No tire rub anywhere so far but haven't airborned the car yet at speed. I do know the bump is actually very good in droop now, that you can feel right away. Just need to work on compression bump out to minimize it.

Still waiting for the right time to get the car to the computer rack. Thurs nights are when that can happen there but mine have been filled by medical appoints lately. Being retired is a tough life, not a lot of time in the day anymore.
Bob

#1057194 - 05/07/18 12:06 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 132
Warriorridge Offline
Member
Warriorridge  Offline
Member

Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 132
Petersburg PA
Suppose I should update again. The frame is almost finished now except for final welding and some small details. Starting in the back I needed to build coilover mounts and a sway bar mount. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to make it all fit without things getting in the way of other things. Eventually this is what I came up with. Its tight but I think it will work
[Linked Image]IMG_20180414_104720 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
[Linked Image]IMG_20180414_171409 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
[Linked Image]IMG_20180414_171835 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
Also made my axle watts link mounts and coilover mounts.
[Linked Image]IMG_20180414_171444 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
I decided to make the axle coilover mounts bolt on instead of welding them on. I figured if I ever change to a different kind of coilover or need to make any dramatic ride hight changes it will be a lot easier to just make some new mounts and bolt them on vs cutting and welding
[Linked Image]IMG_20180414_171430 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr

[Linked Image]IMG_20180414_171810 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr

#1057195 - 05/07/18 12:32 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 132
Warriorridge Offline
Member
Warriorridge  Offline
Member

Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 132
Petersburg PA
I also needed to come up with some swaybar arms. I plan to run a 1'' splined bar. I ordered these large aluminium arms frome speedway motors.
[Linked Image]IMG_20180424_114349 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
Way to big for what I needed but there aren't that many options for 1'' swaybar arms. So I cut them down to roughly the length I wanted
[Linked Image]IMG_20180424_114359 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
Made a template
[Linked Image]IMG_20180424_115609 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
And milled them down to shape with a router
[Linked Image]IMG_20180424_145310 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
I also milled them down the other way to make them thinner, they where a lot thicker than they needed to be for strength, and clearance is tight between the arm and the frame and also the arm and the coilover. so I needed all the space I could get
[Linked Image]IMG_20180424_173400 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
Even with the arms milled down there was still going to be a clearance problem between the arm and the coilover spring with the suspension at full droop. So I notched out the arms with an angle grinder with a flap disc
[Linked Image]IMG_20180425_111820 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
Looks like there will be plenty of clearance.
[Linked Image]IMG_20180425_132924 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
[Linked Image]IMG_20180425_132851 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
Lastly I drilled and taped some holes to bolt the links to. Heres the finished product
[Linked Image]IMG_20180425_122558 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr

#1057196 - 05/07/18 12:51 AM Re: Front suspension mount blueprinting [Re: Warriorridge]  
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 132
Warriorridge Offline
Member
Warriorridge  Offline
Member

Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 132
Petersburg PA
With the back mostly finished I started on the front. I built some new upper control arm mounts and coilover mounts. I cut out the plates for the upper control arm mounts then had a local machine shop mill out some slots in them so I can put some slugs in. Now if I need to make any changes to the front roll center I can just use an offset slug instead of changing ball joints. Not much else to explain on the front, just lots of measuring, cutting, bending, drilling. I'll let the pictures do the talking.
[Linked Image]IMG_20180426_172722 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
[Linked Image]IMG_20180505_163854 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
[Linked Image]IMG_20180505_163952 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
[Linked Image]IMG_20180505_164340 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
[Linked Image]IMG_20180505_164335 by Justin Yoder, on Flickr
So that's pretty much where the project is at the moment. Work is finally starting to pick up again, so that means a little less time for the car, but progress is still being made. Hoping to test fit the body next time I work on the car, then if it all fits, I can start welding everything on the frame together.

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