CELEBRATING 20 YEARS!

I've been trying to get my clutch pedal bled in my monte for over 2 weeks now. I've tried 2 new clutch master's, 2 new slave cylinder's and a new line coming out of the master. There is a brand new clutch and flywheel also.We've gravity bled, mity-vac, pressure bled and vacuum bled. Still have nothing for a pedal.

I'm just about to chuck the hydraulic setup and go mechanical.Can somebody give me an idea of what I'm going to need? Regular sbc isn't a problem but I'm LS powered. I just want to know what I'm up against as this project has gone way way more than I expected it to be.

Thanks
Ron

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b28CahjQd48

I'll keep looking for other methods.
We all know how frustrating some things can be, hang in there.
Bob

Thanks Bob but we already tried that and it didn't help.

Never had to bleed a hydro clutch, just trying to help.

Don't have an answer for converting an LS engine/trans setup to mechanical either, most LS trans with mechanical I've seen have been behind a Gen 1 SBC..
Bob

I appreciate all the help you have given me so far. Not trying to come off as a jerk. It's just that we have tried almost every type of clutch bleeding out there and nothing seems to work. I'm just going nuts now because of this. There is no reason why I cannot get a clutch pedal in my car.

Believe me, I understand. When I put the Dart block 427 with a Stewart water pump in my car I couldn't get it to circulate coolant at initial startup. Spend several long conversations with the Stewart tech guy to no avail. Dart Blocks don't have pump bypass hole. For weeks tryed every method I could think of to get the air out of the pump, had the front of the car 3' off the ground and still pump was cavited. Finally swapped the Stewart pump out for an Edelbrock and it circulated right away, go figure.

Going through he traps about a year later the Edel pump "blowed up", one of the powdered metal vanes on the pump broke off, pushed the plate off the back of the pump and locked up the pump.
Trailered it home the next day.
Bought a Weiand Team G pump, Made in China, sent it right back to Summit.
Pulled the Stewart pump of the shelf for another go around. Still had problems getting the pump to circulate due to trapped air but came up with a better method of pressure filling it.
Now have a bleeder T located in the 3/4" inlet to the heater core and bleeding is much easier.

Just wanted to let you know we all go through some frustration at times.

Here's another guy who has had some "fun" bleeding an LS clutch.

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?205430-Clutch-bleeding-methods
Bob

Can you purchase a new sealed master/slave kit? I heard all of the hydraulic clutch bleed horror stories so I ponied up the $90 for the new sealed kit and never looked back.

I've been there too man, it sucks. One time, I took the line off of the master and submerged the whole thing in fluid up to the reservoir port. I pumped it many times, ensuring that there was no more air in it. Then I poured fluid into the remote reservoir line and popped it onto the master. I put my finger over the pressure port of the master and screwed the line on. Keeping the reservoir full, I gravity bled the slave, then mighty vac'd the slave, and finally was able to get fluid out of it when I pumped the pedal. A bit of pumping and opening/closing the slave bleeder and it firmed right up.

Rear brakes are even worse... at least there's no prop valve on a clutch line.

Update- I HAVE A CLUTCH!!!! Woo Hoo!!!

We used the Phoenix system to push fluid in from the remote bleeder. Had a clutch in 10 minutes! Lol

Right on!!

Pretty close to a test drive now then?

Went to take it for a test drive and the engine wont go over 2500 rpms. I'm thinking it's a pcm problem since I can't communicate with it at all. It has all the gears so I'm doing better than I was the other day. Lol