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#916045 - 01/31/12 11:09 PM Catalytic Converter?  
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Ryan Bequette Offline
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Twinsburg, OH
So i received my new magnaflow cat today for my 87 and I didn't receive any sort of bolts or gaskets. I know walker wont include it with the new y pipes im getting also. Does anyone know if autozone or advanceauto would carry the gaskets and bolts?

#916055 - 01/31/12 11:34 PM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: Ryan Bequette]  
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Richie Cat Offline
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Richie Cat  Offline
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Originally Posted By: Ryan Bequette
So i received my new magnaflow cat today for my 87 and I didn't receive any sort of bolts or gaskets. I know walker wont include it with the new y pipes im getting also. Does anyone know if autozone or advanceauto would carry the gaskets and bolts?

Why wouldn't they? Google your application and see.


83 SC, 355 w/TPI
#916061 - 02/01/12 12:06 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: Richie Cat]  
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Furgie Offline
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Rustbeltville,MA
depends is the cat. a replacement part.. direct fit..
or just a cat with the right pipe size?
advance has a ton of gaskets/ect..


Oh when your body starts to shake,It's time to loosen off the brake ,and slam the hammer down
#916071 - 02/01/12 12:43 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: Furgie]  
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Ryan Bequette Offline
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Twinsburg, OH
Its magnaflows exact fit cat with the four bolt flange. It should bolt right up i mean it looks exactly like the original but it didn't come with any hardware.

#916076 - 02/01/12 12:54 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: Ryan Bequette]  
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rons87mcss Offline
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PA
Get 4-8(?) nuts/bolts from the local hardware store(?) Even if it's a threaded flange (IDK, I've never looked that closely at mine) w/metric bolts, you can still buy them easy enough.


EDIT:
I have a new 93441 Magnaflow converter in a box, and it has a ball type end towards the motor. The other end is set up for a muffle clamp on the intermediate pipe(s).
No gasket needed for a ball type fit.
HTH

Last edited by rons87mcss; 02/01/12 01:00 AM. Reason: added info
#916084 - 02/01/12 01:09 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: rons87mcss]  
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axisg Offline
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Toronto, Ontario
I replaced the exhaust on my car in pieces. Headers then car then cat-abck. Each time the cat was unbolted I noticed there was no gasket between the cat and exhaust. I put mine back together each time with hi-temp copper silicone and 8x bolts I had in the toolbox. I have had it back off again a half dozen times and each time I grind off the the surface with a wire wheel and re-seal with no issues. Don't worry about a gasket


TES Headers - done !
new cat-back exhaust - done !
5.7 swap - done !
3.73 posi rear - done !
blazer front brakes - done !
LS1 Rear Brakes - done!
transmission - rebuilt !
now looking for a replacement rear
__________________________________


#916098 - 02/01/12 01:37 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: axisg]  
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RegalGP Offline
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Warwick, RI
Bought a magnaflow, no bolts or gaskets. Just buy some new ones. X2 on the hi-temp copper.



CRUISER 87 SS. 350 swap, rebuilt trans, front sus/str & dropped w/ZQ8's. Working out the bugs. DAILY/PARTS GETTER 02 GMC 1500HD 294k and counting
#916111 - 02/01/12 02:14 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: RegalGP]  
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86ttop Offline
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the cat has no gaskets, they came that way from the factory. Hi temp silicone if you insist. Just buy hardware as suggested.


Leo Paugh
It's not an attitude, it's just the way I am.
POW*MIA
You are not forgotten
If things improve with age, I must be approaching magnificent. thumbs
#916121 - 02/01/12 02:22 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: 86ttop]  
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honkymonte Offline
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newville, pa
yea when i took mine off to "examine" it, there are no gaskets or anything, just the flange that seals when you bolt it up again

#916125 - 02/01/12 02:27 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: honkymonte]  
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Ryan Bequette Offline
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Twinsburg, OH
Okay so i will just get the bolts. Ill let you guys know how this setup works Its a magnaflow high flow cat with complete stock exhaust up to some thrush turbos that i picked up today. Should have the pipes in tomorrow.

#916143 - 02/01/12 03:14 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: Ryan Bequette]  
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MoreHPplease Offline
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New Jersey
Spend the extra money and get some SS bolts and nuts.

You will appreciate when ever the next time comes around and you need to remove the nuts & bolts.




#916161 - 02/01/12 04:11 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: MoreHPplease]  
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MADMIKE Offline
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C.V. CA
Originally Posted By: MoreHPplease
Spend the extra money and get some SS bolts and nuts.

You will appreciate when ever the next time comes around and you need to remove the nuts & bolts.

I would not use stainless steel nuts and bolts. The stainless on stainless, if not carefully installed, can cause galling, stripping, or shearing of the bolt. If you must use stainless steel nuts on the bolts make sure to lubricate and thread the fasteners together slowly. Materials that readily self-oxidize (SS, AL,etc) have a rough surface.

Steel bolts usually have the threads rolled to produce the screw, this has a smooth surface. Nuts are usually machined/drilled, this produces a rough surface. The two combined will usually assemble with no problems.

With stainless the bolt threads will not have a smooth surface from the oxidizing. The two rough surfaces can bind, galling, and if forced strip or shear the bolt.


-Michael
Where the hell is JMD?!
#916162 - 02/01/12 04:16 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: MADMIKE]  
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Ryan Bequette Offline
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Twinsburg, OH
I would hate to have that happen. What if I used a slightly smaller bolt and put a nut on the end and tightened it that way?

#916171 - 02/01/12 05:43 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: Ryan Bequette]  
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Buick Runner Offline
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Buick Runner  Offline
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Dharma station 1 the Hydra
Just use anti-seize on the steel bolts.


SBC powered 1987 Regal with TES headers, ZZ4 intake, ZZ4 PROM chip, mini starter, THM2004R, 2500 stall converter, 2040 cam, CCC system, and 3.73 posi rear.

2008 ex NPS P71 Crown Victoria, cop motor, cop shocks, cop brakes, and Jmod.

Never argue with an idiot.
They will just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
#916174 - 02/01/12 08:05 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: Buick Runner]  
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MoreHPplease Offline
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New Jersey
Interesting, but my experience has been the exact opposite.

I have found that once alloy steel bolts (i.e. Grade 5,8 or metric 8.8,10.9) have gotten hot enough in an exhaust system they will often seize in their holes, and they end up having about as much strength as a Grade 2 bolt (if that) so they will twist off with very little effort.

Anti-seize helps with later removal, but they still rust badly and have a tendency to lose their threads because they get so soft.

Stainless pretty much maintains it's strength, and I haven't seen it have any tendency to gall. Then again, I always use anti-seize on exhaust bolts.




#916194 - 02/01/12 02:21 PM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: MoreHPplease]  
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Barry 85 SS Offline
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Stainless is definately prone to galling, but some anti sieze should prevent it from happening.

#916213 - 02/01/12 04:43 PM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: Barry 85 SS]  
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MADMIKE Offline
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MADMIKE  Offline
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C.V. CA
It can also be prevented if the nut and bolt are each a different hardness.
The tensile strength of stainless steel bolts may not be identified using familiar SAE head markings. They may have '307', '325', or '490' stamped into the head. These are the equivalent of Grade 1, Grade 5, and Grade 8.


-Michael
Where the hell is JMD?!
#916294 - 02/02/12 02:43 AM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: MADMIKE]  
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MoreHPplease Offline
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MoreHPplease  Offline
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New Jersey
Originally Posted By: MADMIKE
It can also be prevented if the nut and bolt are each a different hardness.


Absolutely right, stainless steel only galls with stainless steel of the same grade and most high quality aftermarket exhaust systems (to include turbo manufacturers) usually provide the end user with different grade hardness SS nuts in-conjunction with their supplied bolts.

Putting stainless bolts into a cast iron head will not be a problem and of course just make sure to use a high temp copper based anti-seize compound.

Also from my experience the most common grades of SS used for bolts are 304 and 316.

These are both austenitic grades, which means they have enough nickel to prevent the formation of martensite (which is what makes steels, stainless or otherwise, hardenable).

304 is also commonly known as 18-8 or A2, and is the most common and least expensive. 316 costs more, but has better corrosion resistance against acids and harsh marine environments.

You don't need 316 for exhausts, but it might be better if you live in some rust belt state where they salt the roads in the winter months.

Just a side note... These stainless steels will not become hard or brittle through heat cycling nor will they become much softer or weaker after years of use.

They aren't as strong as a regular grade 8 bolt so don't try to over tighten them as you don't need to anyway.

Another positive about using SS nuts and bolts for exhaust systems is they are quite a bit stronger than grade 8 bolts that have been repeatedly heat cycled besides the fact that they won't turn into a rusty pile of crap after being exposed to the elements.

Last edited by MoreHPplease; 02/02/12 02:45 AM.



#916361 - 02/02/12 03:34 PM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: MoreHPplease]  
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Ryan Bequette Offline
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Twinsburg, OH
Well unfortunately I live in Ohio actually a couple miles from lake erie so we always have salt on the roads in the winter. Where can i pick up a set of SS bolts?

#916428 - 02/02/12 11:53 PM Re: Catalytic Converter? [Re: Ryan Bequette]  
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MoreHPplease Offline
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MoreHPplease  Offline
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New Jersey
If you have a local hardware store I would try there first.

Also places like Home Depot and ACE usually have a variety of SS nuts and bolts too.

Last edited by MoreHPplease; 02/03/12 02:46 AM.




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