CELEBRATING 20 YEARS!

yea, it is nice to know that we could use either of the shafts with some mods...

looks to me that 97 and newer on a regular cherokee went to the smaller top shaft but on the grand cherokee it seems hit or miss regardless of the year I usually leave the grand cherokee alone also because it takes longer to take one off,less room to work if it's got a v8 I'm going to have to get one to compare it to the ones I get because it looks different

Another tip.. the price at the yard may change depending on what you call it. Went to my local Pick-Your-Part. They have pre-set prices in their computer. First time around the guy didn't know what to call it so selected a "steering bracket". They cost me $14 each. Next time around, different guy.. selected "Steering Coupler" and I got the shaft for a wopping $6.50. You know what I'm going to call it next time when I approach the window!

Paul, an honest man like you, I'm sure next time you make sure they look it up correctly.

LSJM1, there is quite a bit of difference in the size of the openings; had to remove about 1/2" total from side-side and top-bottom. If you have a vice, grinder/drill, and bits it's no big deal at all. I would have gotten the correct shaft to begin with, but didn't do enough research before I placed my bid on Ebay (advertised as 93-98 Grand Cherokee shaft). I paid ~$30 TTD, and now believe it was completely worth it.

The shaft fits nice and snug now, and it's amazing how much different the car is to drive with it.

Picked one up at the Pick and Pull off a '96 Cherokee. Walked over to the area where the G-body's sit, and found one that had the shaft removed, so I could do a trial fit. $10 was a good deal.

I wonder if the shaft would fit on a 3rd gen f-body

3rd gen F shaft is a few inches longer than a G, I doubt it would fit.
Bob

First off wanted to say thanks to FiveToDrive, for getting one to me.

I wanted to put my input in after the install of one of those Jeep steering shafts and driving with one for a while.

I put one in my 82 Buick Regal, on my YA GN steering box, I also have headers on my Buick 455 thats under the hood.

Awesome, lots of clearance!

Driving? well let me say I took my Regal down to TN back in Sept, to hang with the Guys from PRO-TOURING.COM and their anual "RUN THRU the HILLS" event.

Didn't do in any auto-crossing in it, but did do the TAIL of the Dragon, a 11 mile road with 318 turns, It performed flawlessly, nice n tight , no slop, and more road feel.

I really enjoyed actually driving my car for the first time, down and back, 6 hrs each way, and during the event.

Now I will point out I had to change steering boxes, before the event, my orginal GN box had a dead spot at center that I couldn't adjust out, so a low milage used one went in, thanks to the host of the event, BILL HOWELL from MUSCLERIDES.COM and the use of his awesome garage called the "TOY BOX".

So for those of you still sitting on the fence about it, go ahead and do it.

I just got mine back from the mechanic. I will say, a great improvement. I just put a rebuilt steering box on a while back, so everything is very tight.Thanks LSJM1 fast shipping and clean unit

I have a s-10 manual box on my drag-street cutlass and the jeep shaft made a huge improvement it was almost unbearable to drive around before.I have 4 more shafts cleaned up and ready to ship

I found one of these in the yard last week, and its frozen. I've been spraying it with PB blaster and beating it with a hammer and it's not coming loose. Any suggestions?

I heated the outside of the larger of the two pipe sections with a propane tourch, about 60-90 seconds. That started it sliding, and a little lithium grease finished the job.

HTH

No problem! Sorry I was gone for so long. Life got in the way but I now have a few of these if you guys want them...



Heat it up with a propane torch like said above then turn the upper part of the shaft 90 degrees and take a piece of 2x4 and hit it with the hammer. It will loosen up and you will then be able to compress it. While it is still hot move it in and out about 20 or 30 times and lube it up with grease. Then you will be set!

Thanks and remember to call me if you want one. Aaron 720-933-7635

I just picked mine up from Aaron / fivetodrive. Very cool can't wait to put it in.
Larry.

With these steering shafts, I heard it's best to notch our steering coloumn shafts so the clamp bolt fits better?

Noticed when mine is being tightened down it wants to slip down the coloumn shaft abit, little to close to the edge for my tastes. ( but seems to hold well?)

The reason for the above question is this from TurboBuick.com



at this thread
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/brakes-...ring-shaft.html

thanks

make sure your shaft is extended all the way up, may need to smooth the inside of the connector a bit so it stays fully extended while tightening

This same thing happened before to me, I've got the same shaft and gonna finish opening it up tonight.

Be aware that the shafts are "staked" and makes them difficult to move in/out by hand.

93-94 grand cherokee shafts are the best they have a better rubber joint

i just did my monte and syclone also wow what a difference thanks for the post

who has one for sale

I picked up one yesterday and both ends fit on the Monte fine, but I can't get the thing the compress. Any suggestions?

Shop press. Do not use a hammer. Once it breaks free you usually can move it by hand.

I picked one up from my local yard. it was from the box style jeep grand cherokee limited. the column end fits snug. have not tried to hook to splines yet but im sure it will bolt right up. man those jeeps are tight to work on glad i have my ss. the shaft has a 4889 stamped on it if tjat helps anyone.