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#398206 01/10/07 03:23 AM
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Has anybody had may luck with http://www.finelinesinc.com for prebent lines? and also how hard is it to install the front to rear line, as that is what i need to replace. it seems to me that it might be rather difficult snakeing it around and over the rear end, it seems kind of tight. is it difficult or easier than it looks?

Thanks

LIMCSS #398279 01/10/07 11:22 AM
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When they built the car on an assembly line, it was just the chassis when the lines were installed. It is a huge job to replace the lines with the body on the frame. I considered doing this before, but I opted to replace and splice in only what was needed. That was difficult enough. Just remember that you need a double flaring tool to make all the fittings seal properly and so the brakes perform as they should. NAPA will have all the tubing, connectors, tools (benders & flaring) that you will need. Just take your time and you should be fine. If patience is not your best friend, I highly reccommend you take it in to a shop. Good luck.


Jeff

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It's a magic kind of medicine, that no doctor could perscribe.
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mannblk #398412 01/10/07 08:10 PM
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^thats what i thought but i also thought you werent supposed to splice lines

LIMCSS #398461 01/10/07 11:00 PM
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Has anyone been suscessful installing the whole front to rear line?

LIMCSS #398519 01/11/07 01:20 AM
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I ran the entire front to rear line (pre-bent, stainless).
I didnt run it perfectly in the "stock" layout, but came pretty close. The toughest part is feeding it through the rear wheelwell area and tring to keep it away from the moving suspension parts. (Im running Hotchkis braces which made it twice as hard.)
I would becareful when it comes to splicing lines, your brake system has alot of pressure running through it, If you do decide to go that route make sure you use the proper compression fitting(s).


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so do you think that it will be easier with a stock setup? to me it looks like it could be done with a little work snakeing it through , also did you do this on an areo i dont know if that makes a difference or not though?

LIMCSS #398600 01/11/07 02:47 AM
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You should be using DOUBLE FLARE connections for anything but a very temporary emergency repair (as in, to get you home where you can repair it properly). You can buy straight lengths already made up with the double flare ends and nuts, and these are OK in combination with the proper union fittings. Bend carefully with a tubing bender (or at least using its die) so you don't crimp the line.

In any event, cover over the ends of the line to avoid getting any crud inside while you snake it along / through the dirty side of your car.


Norm


'08 GT coupe, 5M, suspension unstockish (mine)
'10 Legacy 2.5GT, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)

Gone but not forgotten dep't: '95 Mazda 626, V6/5M; '79 Chevy Malibu, 4M/5M; '87 Maxima, 5M; '72 Ford Pinto, 4M; '64 Dodge V8/3A . . .
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So it is OK to splice as long as you use a double flare, wasnt aware of that thanks! now this just leaves me with the desision of weather to by the entire pre bent line or splice in a new section, the reason i have been leaning toward the entire front to rear line is because the spot where the old line blew out seems kind of tight to flare it, so i thought why not go with a entire fresh line so this problem wont happen again, any oppionions on what i should do?
BTW the line blew out right over the rear end where the main brake line meets a rubber line, if that makes any sense... so its kind of tight.

thanks guys

LIMCSS #398642 01/11/07 03:48 AM
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Our local parts store keeps 1/4" brake line in 25' rolls, if you can buy one of them and a flare tool and two fittings you could run new line all the way back from the proportioning valve to the rear hose as one solid piece(I would start at the back and run it up to the front) You can get some straight lines and bent them also just that then you will also need to buy some unions and piece the lines together.

Keep in mind you can't flare rusty lines.

Randy


1983 Monte Carlo SS Turnkey ZZ4/700R4, Dakota Digital Instrument Cluster, 77k mile car. Many more mods to come soon.
LIMCSS #398730 01/11/07 11:58 AM
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I'd replace that whole line, from the flex hose connection all the way forward to the prop valve. Actually, I'm a little surprised that it didn't let go just downstream of the prop valve instead, as that area seems to trap moisture and rust fairly heavily.

While you're at it, do yourself a favor and take a real good look at the rest of the lines. There may be places on them that may not be in much better condition than the place that did fail (in particular, the line to the RF brake may be pretty nasty where it follows the crossmember), so you might as well replace them while the brake system is already open and will need to be bled anyway. BTDT, as they say.


Norm


'08 GT coupe, 5M, suspension unstockish (mine)
'10 Legacy 2.5GT, 6M (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE, 5M (spare, winter driver)

Gone but not forgotten dep't: '95 Mazda 626, V6/5M; '79 Chevy Malibu, 4M/5M; '87 Maxima, 5M; '72 Ford Pinto, 4M; '64 Dodge V8/3A . . .
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I would also suggest buying the entire line, and if you have the cash, get a stainless line (prebent) so you never have the problem again.
Yes, I did this on my aero, but no, that wouldnt matter in this case.


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limcss, I used the fineline brake lines for my 87ss. they were all prebent and easy to install. I did not use the stock location of the brake lines, I just ran mine from the rear to the front propostioning valve along the drivers side frame rail. took me bout 2 hours to install..I can get you some pics if you are want me too. but the prebent was just easier for me, then bending and flaring all the lines myself. lol....hth...good luck....Bill

06mcss #409051 02/10/07 10:12 PM
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I bent my own line out of 1/4" stainless tubing. it was a real pain to get around the rear of the chassis. I just took my time and while the car was down I replaced the rear rubber brake hose and the lines to the wheel cylinders with 3/16" stainless line. Steve


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