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#1066461 - 05/18/20 12:30 AM Re: Stumped with High RPM problem! Help? [Re: Bitflipper]  
Joined: Jun 2004
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Bitflipper Offline
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Bitflipper  Offline
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Las Vegas, NV
I think it's this one based on what I see when I unplug it. Can't find an ACDelco one to save my life. I'm fine with aftermarket if I cannot get OEM.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Connec...GR-Vacuum-Solenoid-PT-EGR1-/261686896433

Yeah?


[Linked Image]
#1066463 - 05/18/20 01:38 AM Re: Stumped with High RPM problem! Help? [Re: Bitflipper]  
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,850
BadSS Offline
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Pearl, MS, 39208
Originally Posted by Bitflipper
I think it's this one based on what I see when I unplug it. Can't find an ACDelco one to save my life. I'm fine with aftermarket if I cannot get OEM.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Connec...GR-Vacuum-Solenoid-PT-EGR1-/261686896433

Yeah?

Or you can just push the pins out of the old connector and put them in a new one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-Weather-Pack-2-Pin-Sealed-Connector-Kit-12-10-GA/221814185544

Should be able to do the same for the 4-pin one also
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-Weather-Pack-4-Pin-Sealed-Connector-Kit-12-10-GA-/322048876823

#1066464 - 05/18/20 05:30 AM Re: Stumped with High RPM problem! Help? [Re: Bitflipper]  
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mmc427ss Offline
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Pottstown, Pa
Don't you have EGR delete? You don't need that solenoid anymore.

The only problem with using the Delphi connectors is you need to have the correct crimper for the terminals. Not everyone has one but the Delphi connectors are the way to go. Sometimes if you have the tool needed to remove the wire/terminal from the plug you just replace the damaged plastic male or female part.
Bob

#1066468 - 05/18/20 12:57 PM Re: Stumped with High RPM problem! Help? [Re: Bitflipper]  
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If you know it's something you'll use more than once or twice, then the tool is a pretty good investment. I eventually bought a removal tool and the crimper but before then I would get two small paper clips and use a hammer to beat one end flat. Stick one on each side to depress the tangs/barbs and it'll pull right out. Once out, widen the tangs back out a tad and plug into the new connector.

[Linked Image]

#1066470 - 05/18/20 02:33 PM Re: Stumped with High RPM problem! Help? [Re: Bitflipper]  
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Bitflipper Offline
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I kept it simple and bought the full connector from eBay. I can easily solder it in and wrap it nicely with shrink wrap.

I don't delete the EGR completely, only the trouble code. This is part of my ZZ4/L69 hybrid EPROM.


[Linked Image]
#1066472 - 05/18/20 04:50 PM Re: Stumped with High RPM problem! Help? [Re: Bitflipper]  
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 365
Bitflipper Offline
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Bitflipper  Offline
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Las Vegas, NV
Does the geometry of the Throttle and TV cable look better now?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MbDMXGiqWRYEB3no9

Do you think that's a good amount of tension on the TV cable adjustment as a starting point or should there be more/less?

I had to really goof around getting that bracket in place with the TV cable already snapped into the bracket because the button release side couldn't slide past the hard carb vacuum line with the bracket bolted down. At one point I thought maybe I broke the cable because it popped out of the back. Upon examination, it looks like the cable housing just sort of pressure fits inside the TV cable adjustment module. I just pushed it back in and it seems fine. Am I good or did I screw something up?

The cruise bar has a length adjustment that I didn't notice before. You can see in the picture that I adjusted it so it is "just a little wiggly" in all directions. Is that good or do I need more or less?

Someone had suggested that the "Green Spring" should be able to clip on to the notch in the TV cable mount point on the bracket. That's not true, that notch is actually so you can only put the TV cable module in one way - the plastic on that one side of the module blocks the notch. I used the original (very bent) spring clip hole. Is it okay for that spring to have an angle in it like that in the picture?

Assuming no one finds anything alarming, if it doesn't get crazy hot over the Memorial Day weekend, I hope to take a crack at firing it up and setting the timing.

Last edited by Bitflipper; 05/18/20 04:50 PM.

[Linked Image]
#1066477 - 05/19/20 01:41 AM Re: Stumped with High RPM problem! Help? [Re: Bitflipper]  
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mmc427ss Offline
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Pottstown, Pa
Now that it appears the bracket and related linkage and TV cable are aligned and correctly adjust the TV cable before driving the car. Below is complied off of Art Carr's trans website:

"1. Stop the engine.
2. Depress the adjusting tab and move the slider back through the fitting away from the carburetor until it stops.
3. Release the adjustment tab.
4. Move the throttle linkage to rest against the full throttle stop, then release it .
5. Check the cable to insure that it is not sticking or binding.
6. Road test the vehicle.
7. If the problem still exists, refer to the cable diagnosis section."

I will add when you move the throttle "to rest against the full throttle stop" that means to wide open throttle. There are a couple thing to do it insure the throttle goes to WOT position. For me that means on your car that the choke plate is wide open.You can hold it open with your other hand. This is to insure that the secondary throttle plates goes wide open also. There is a secondary lock out feature on the Qjet choke linkage that prevents the sec from opening if the choke plate is not wide open.

Disconnect he cruise rod when you are adjusting the TV. In fact leave it off until you get done with all the other tuning. Later when you need the cruise is the time to install the rod and set it correct length. That rod can influence setup/tuning of the carb because idle speed can be effected by a maladjusted rod.

If there is fuel in the carb the accelerator pump will squirt a shot of fuel into the intake manifold when you move the carb to WOT. Every time you move the throttle a squirt goes down into the intake. It's not a good idea to pump a lot of fuel into an engine that isn't running and isn't going to start right away. That excess fuel can find it's way to the piston rings and wash oil off a cyl wall. This is just a reminder that your engine is not even broke in yet, Avoid excess fuel dumping into any engine.

On the 200 R trans make sure trans fluid level full when hot. Most 200R owners run the trans overfull by 1/2 qt some a little more. When you make your next trip out in the real world for a test run in the car pay close attention to how the trans is behaving. TV adjustment should be your first concern. When you dial in some more hp the trans is the next thing you need to respect. In some cases doubling the hp puts a stain on a 35 year old trans.
Bob

#1066561 - 05/24/20 05:38 PM Re: Stumped with High RPM problem! Help? [Re: Bitflipper]  
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Bitflipper Offline
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Las Vegas, NV
For anyone in the future happening across this thread and looking to replace the EGR vacuum control solenoid connector:

That link I posted for the connector is the right size, however, the indexing slots are not correct. Looking at the connector plugged in from the front of the car - You need a slot on the bottom of the left plug pin and the right of the right plug pin. The only indexing slot on that connector is on the top of the left pin. I was unable to find any such connector online anywhere. I briefly thought about making a junk yard run, but any that are left there would be just as brittle if not worse than the one that broke on my car.

Easy fix, especially if you already have a dremel tool, get a saw blade kit here:

EZ Lock Rotary Tool Cut-Off Wheel Set for Metal and Plastic (11-Piece)

I already had that saw blade kit from another project. The plastic blade was able to easy cut the required indexing slots to just the right size. File off the excess shards of plastic - voila - new EGR vacuum control solenoid connector. Fits perfect now for me.

I'm all set with new connectors, and vacuum lines plumbed in for the replacement manifold vacuum port fitting. Next step is to try to get the timing right. Fingers crossed I can pull this off...


[Linked Image]
#1066581 - 05/26/20 12:29 AM Re: Stumped with High RPM problem! Help? [Re: Bitflipper]  
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 365
Bitflipper Offline
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Bitflipper  Offline
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Las Vegas, NV
Okay, so I set the Idle Air mixture screws back to 3+3/8 turns (approximately) and the idle air bleed 3+1/2 turns out from seated. Had to give the idle screw a lot of torque just to keep it started - barely.

I think the timing is pretty close to spot on at idle; any more and it stalls, any less and it stalls.

I plumbed the vacuum meter into the port where the air cleaner plugs in. I hope that is sufficient to produce a useful result. It is bouncing wildly between 10-14 Hg. That's in the yellow zone. At no point did I get it into the green.

Before I take it to someone that can help me find the vacuum leak - in case there isn't a leak after all - is there a part that generates or stores the vacuum that may be malfunctioning? Is there a way to tell or do I just swap it and see what happens?

Thanks in advance!


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#1066585 - 05/26/20 12:21 PM Re: Stumped with High RPM problem! Help? [Re: Bitflipper]  
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,850
BadSS Offline
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BadSS  Offline
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Pearl, MS, 39208
A cam with a lot of overlap will do that, but I don't think yours should have enough that it couldn't be smoothed out with the idle enrichment screwa and air bleed valve. It's big enough that it isn't going to run right with stock adjustments. I'm assuming you tried adjusting them and it didn't make a lot of difference.

There's a vacuum ball up front on the driver's side by the evap canister - you can unhook the line going to it at the carb and use a vacuum port cap (or a small piece of vacuum line with a bolt in it) to see if it is an issue.

Before you cap off the vacuum line you pulled, and if the idle increased like it should, back down the idle to around 750 and see if the adjustments on the carb makes any difference now. If it does, then you can drill a small hole in each primary throttle blade and it should be good to go. I had to do this on the larger cams, but I'm going to be surprised if you have to do this for yours.

Before you do anything ---- Have the lifters ever been adjusted? An over tightened lifter will cause the gauge to bounce rapidly. If that's an issue, or something worse, it'll show up doing a simple compression test.

#1066588 - 05/26/20 05:54 PM Re: Stumped with High RPM problem! Help? [Re: Bitflipper]  
Joined: Apr 2011
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Hunter79764 Offline
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Hunter79764  Offline
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Grand Prairie, Tx
Originally Posted by Bitflipper
For anyone in the future happening across this thread and looking to replace the EGR vacuum control solenoid connector:

That link I posted for the connector is the right size, however, the indexing slots are not correct. Looking at the connector plugged in from the front of the car - You need a slot on the bottom of the left plug pin and the right of the right plug pin. The only indexing slot on that connector is on the top of the left pin. I was unable to find any such connector online anywhere. I briefly thought about making a junk yard run, but any that are left there would be just as brittle if not worse than the one that broke on my car.

Easy fix, especially if you already have a dremel tool, get a saw blade kit here:

EZ Lock Rotary Tool Cut-Off Wheel Set for Metal and Plastic (11-Piece)

I already had that saw blade kit from another project. The plastic blade was able to easy cut the required indexing slots to just the right size. File off the excess shards of plastic - voila - new EGR vacuum control solenoid connector. Fits perfect now for me.

I'm all set with new connectors, and vacuum lines plumbed in for the replacement manifold vacuum port fitting. Next step is to try to get the timing right. Fingers crossed I can pull this off...


When I worked for a large HVAC company engineering rooftop units, we started using a system called RAST that was a glorified cover for 1/4" QC terminals, but had keyways and fingers that would allow you to keep everything from being plugged in wrong. It was always a pain in development when you just needed to plug some stuff in and it wouldn't go, so you had to find the right housing and swap terminals etc. I was working on one, got tired of the issues, so I just started cutting tabs off to make things work for testing, knowing we would sort it out later on in the final design. One of the guys asked how I got it wired up so quick, since we were missing a lot of components. I told him I developed a Universal RAST Adapter tool and asked if we wanted to borrow it. He was really excited at such a tool, until I handed him my pocket knife. After that, there was a lot less headache on wiring samples...


Shawn

'85 MC with budget 5.3L swap, TH350 with stock 2.14 rear end
It ain't much off the line, but it's nice on the highway
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