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#1065792 - 03/31/20 08:43 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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Just gotta be frugal!

Bob, 218lbs with everything but brake lines on it, it looks like 9"s are pretty close to that.

I should have quite a bit let rotating mass compared to a non floater 9" with the advantage of some friction free'd up and strength on top of that.

The other thing I didnt mention is wheels.

I could've went with Howe hubs, or even a Coleman with a 5 x 4.75 pattern. When you're scrounging used stuff like me though those just aren't common. Those only come with the standard 8x7" rotor pattern, wilwood makes a 13" rotor on that pattern but I was not paying $400+ for a pair.

Even with that hub, the drive flange is 80mm OD so finding a wheel with the correct back spacing, width, center bore, and my chosen diameter (18") was going to be a chore. Especially wanting 315s or 335s in the rear.

Originally I was going to have this rear done by last August and Travis was going to put it in his car for some miles and autocrossing. Partially so if there were any issues they were immediate and it could go back to DTS, and so Travis could play with ratios. (Offer is still open btw)
DTS took longer than I anticipated, and I drug my feet a bit too long for any fun last year.


Travis is on 17"s with a cheap auto X tire, I found a set with the nipples just barely worn off on eBay and bought a pair. And realized we could probably use Impala SS wheels. So I found a cheap pair in-state. Those are currently at the powder coater getting turned into an SS-stripe-maroon type color. I think once I'm out of quarantine I will pick another pair up so I can have a set of cruisin wheels/ tires and a set of race wheels. Amazingly the Impala wheels fit the 80mm drive flange OD perfectly, the backspace is yet to be verified but it is close.

Travis can chime in with the tire specs, Im thinking 255/50r17. Im excited to see those wheels under a Monte, always had a soft spot for the Impalas.


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1065794 - 03/31/20 09:07 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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Forgot to mention the clearance around the pinion.

A few years back IMCA started allowing their modified division to run quick changes as they were the lst sanctioning body requiring 9"s left. Fast shafts realized that instead of all these guys having to buy new driveshafts they could just offer a 1" longer yoke for a QC. Thats whats on it now.

So in theory my rear u joint should be in the exact same position as with a 9". I happen to have a friends rolling chassis with a 9" sitting in my other bay so I'll check that out tonight.


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1065815 - 04/02/20 02:47 AM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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Got some stuff ordered for a final piece today. Hopefully I can stay busy this weekend and get it done for Travis, I'm sure he is stir crazy in Detroit right now.

Once the bar is built I need to take some measurements to draw up the steel plating so I can bolt it into the frame.


I got a chance to measure around the 9" yoke.

The center of the pinion shaft, at the u joint upward has 7.5" to the rear frame firewall/crossmember at stock ride height.

The propeller from the center to the most outward "points" is 4.5"

So at most from stock ride height I have 3" of travel.

Which since I want it lower is problematic, but I also do not plan on much travel. A stiff bump spring on the rear shock shaft might be added insurance. Some torch and hammer time isnt off the table.


DPI, now Larsen Racing Products makes a rear watts like mount for a quick change, its adjustable which is nice. The unfortunate part is that its designed for the newer, more common, flat cover quick changes. I have never personally seen a roundy round car with a watts. Although through research one chassis builder of the "touring style" nascar whelen modifieds use a watts but it is mounted to the side of the pinion plate, not in the center. Howe chassis TA2 cars are offset like that, whereas the Port City cars use the piece I have. The offset mount is quite a bit cheaper

So other than the fact that I cant use it on the QC I currently have, and that it would probably be impossible to find used I dont know that I would want to have to pull it all apart to have to change gears.

Hope everyone is staying safe.







Last edited by MC96; 04/02/20 02:51 AM.

86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1065821 - 04/02/20 11:08 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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While in house lockdown to a large degree, we're old people, have had way to much internet time. Even have the flower beds done and the vegetable garden ready for planting the Victory Crop. Did a long post on the rear spring topic but decided to spend time typing on this post, will dump that one on the forum later after the car is out for a drive again, maybe soon I hope.
While I'm committed to no cutting on the chassis to add a third link the Watts has had me interested for years. There are numerous bolt in available for many applications including the FAYS2 for the G-body. My problem with them is the bulk of material uses, how it attaches to the rear tubes and exhaust/tailpipes clearance.
http://www.fays2.net/

There are several cleaver ways they have found to use a spicer type rear cover to adapt a mount for the watts pivot point. BMR has this:
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=232&superpro=0
Although for a 12 bolt it's the concept and way they attach to the rear cover bolts. Also would think with the length of the 3rd member it's about IC for weight transfer.
Several other versions available from Whiteline:
https://whitelineperformance.com/collections/watts-link-kit
And similar but more adjustable is the Cortex:
https://cortexracing.com/suspension/watts-link/
Both of those application are for the late Mustangs but the idea is there.


Funny, was watching some videos of watts links and found out a Chrysler PT snoozer uses a watts in the rear. Not so much for the handling but to keep the rear from falling out the side. Also PT is only a two link suspensions via a short truck arm type link and a little fixed watts to do the rest. Interesting, simple setup. Being FWD there is no pinion angle to deal with as the rear suspension articulates.

Have seen a few clever guys weld up a pivot mount for a 10 or 12 bolt spicer patterns, one guy even made one for his Dana 60, attaching around the case cover and fabricated a pivot point. On my 8 1/2 an LPW girdle has been installed for years, it has two holes for the tube supports that may be able to be used as additional strength on a spicer install. Buying a new HD girdle and have more material added to it is not out of the question, it just a chunk of alum that can have additional alum added. As another piece of my rear suspension's on going development the watts has been kicked around. Just need to figure out how to incorporate it without taking up all that space it would need.

In case we have forgotten there is another member here doing a 3 link and watts. Justin hasn't been heard from in a while, hope he's still making progress on that frame.
http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1055617&page=4
Bob

#1065831 - 04/03/20 02:47 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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I have seen the BMR, and some various Mustang ones but not the adjustable one. I agree that I like the idea, spending Travis' money for him I would have him get one.

I saw the PT watts on rock auto, there are some other Mopars that use it as well, I was trying to find a cheap propeller.

Im thinking a webbing of some sort could be made on the plasma table that welds onto a stock cover, it could easily protrude above the housing to include a top link mount and even a pivot for a watts, maybe that could be the 2nd half of a true bolt in kit, using a stock rear still.
That, or, I'm actually a pretty good aluminum TIG welder, once I'm back at work some billet mounts could be added to an old aluminum cover. I'll have to keep an eye out for one cheap.

The rear cover mount vs the frame mount is an interesting thing.

Mounting on the rear means no roll center movement when the rear of the vehicle changes ride height, although your c/g is changing with the car so your moment arm is changing length.

Mounting to the frame means the roll center is pitching with the c/g so your moment arm is the same throughout travel.

Whether or not anyone would ever notice a difference is probably the actual question to ask.

My thinking when looking at all these kits is that the producers goal is to "put a watts on X" so packaging has determined where it gets mounted. I would look more towards the OEs and see how they have mounted watts' on RWD applications when they had a blank slate. I know the Panther had them in later years but being a late addition to an existing platform I'm not sure that platform is the best measure. They mounted them to the rear, for what its worth.


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1065832 - 04/03/20 03:34 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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I know some of the Durango SUV's have Watt's links mounted to the rear cover. Looks like they use a beefy, cast cover. I'm with you that with some clever fabrication, you could create a 3 link/watts combo mount that would go over the diff cover on a stock style axle (or between the cover and the housing, like a spacer, and use 2 gaskets). Making it for an Explorer 8.8 would give a plentiful housing source, reasonable strength in stock form (I think a bunch of them came with TracLoc and 31 splines?), and taking ~3" out of the longer side (it has an offset center) to match the shorter side puts it close to the Gbody width from what I remember, and you can use 2 short side axles on a budget. Would that put too much stress on the cover bolts? I don't know, but I'd think we could collectively figure that out.


Shawn

'85 MC with budget 5.3L swap, TH350 with stock 2.14 rear end
It ain't much off the line, but it's nice on the highway
#1065833 - 04/03/20 04:26 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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There is a user on the gbodyforum that has done something similar, he used I think a blazer zr2 rear if I’m not mistaken (30 spline axles I think?) and did exactly what you described, sandwiched it and used two gaskets.

His maintained the stock triangulated 4 link geometry, but the idea transfers to any integral housing rear end with a back cover/ any torque link. Could also put “ears” on it similar to the BMR 12 bolt mount Bob shared and stand off a watts propeller as well.

Maybe that’s the ticket. I’ll have to see if I can’t find a DXF of the cover patterns for the different rears. It would be a good project for the table.

I’ll link the gbodyforum member when I’m back home.


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1065834 - 04/03/20 07:18 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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I didn't look closely enough at the BMR setup, but I see that now. It also has me thinking of the 4 link mounting ears, which would be the simpler setup vs the fabricated truss/arch design I'd considered before to installing an 8.8. Basically, I'm too cheap to do a 9", and too cheap to buy a Fox 8.8 installation kit. Trying to get the upper mounts figured out on an Explorer rear is the direction I'm leaning towards most. Different animal from what you have on your plate, but you are inspiring me to look in a new direction.

I'm the kind of guy that would much rather dwell on something for hours/days/years, then maybe one day get around to making it out of scrap and a $100 bill on sale day at U-Pull-It. This has potential smile


Shawn

'85 MC with budget 5.3L swap, TH350 with stock 2.14 rear end
It ain't much off the line, but it's nice on the highway
#1065835 - 04/04/20 12:37 AM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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Originally Posted by MC96
There is a user on the gbodyforum that has done something similar, he used I think a blazer zr2 rear if I’m not mistaken (30 spline axles I think?) and did exactly what you described, sandwiched it and used two gaskets.

His maintained the stock triangulated 4 link geometry, but the idea transfers to any integral housing rear end with a back cover/ any torque link. Could also put “ears” on it similar to the BMR 12 bolt mount Bob shared and stand off a watts propeller as well.

Maybe that’s the ticket. I’ll have to see if I can’t find a DXF of the cover patterns for the different rears. It would be a good project for the table.

I’ll link the gbodyforum member when I’m back home.




Also the chevy cruze of all things used a watts link, except the eco. lots of front wheel drive stuff with a twist beam axle does.

As for the watts link discussion, I'm not terribly interested in putting a watts link on the car. It's much more complex a system than I want, and the failure mode of an aluminum diff cover housing in the event you curb a car not that hard scares me. Much like Lance's, build my car is is a street car that occasionally races. An adjustable panhard rod will be fine for my purposes. Now for an all out race car that would be the ticket, but I'd also do a few different things, longer 3rd link, notch the frame, etc.

This is supposed to be a mostly bolt in endeavor.


86 SS 6.0L LQ4, TBSS GEN IV intake, 92mm TB, 30lb injectors, Summit Stage 3 NA Cam, Stainless long tube headers, Stainless 3in exhaust, Microsquirt ECU, FABbot AR5 5-speed, Torsen LSD, QA1 Lvl 3 Suspension Kit, UMI Front & Rear Braces. Check out my build blog on Summit Racing's OnAll Cylinders https://www.onallcylinders.com/author/travis-jones/
#1065839 - 04/04/20 05:28 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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Yesterday after pulling the alignment "rack" from under the car took a look again at the confines a watts would need to go into. No way without massive tailpipe mods would a Fays2 or a diff cover application fit with tailpipes. If you look at a lot of the watts installs there are no tailpipes, just muffler turndowns, One install I saw had the tailpipes routed under the watts and then back up again to exit behind the wheels, looked like a kitchen sink trap and I would suppose a good place for condensation to get trapped. Some WOT out on the highway would clean it out, just hope there are no other cars on the highway behind you.

Spending a lot of time looking for other watts applications you find dozens of car manufactures that incorporated a watts into the rear suspension. You find dozens of guys that have added a watts to the rear suspension on race cars. But what you find little info on is the design of the watts to get the max benefit for cornering. I get the advantage of the side to side travel of the rear that the watts has over a panhard bar, but the actual math involved in making an adjustable watts setup that is hard to find. With the factory installed watts they come in every conceivable location from the back on the diff cover to the top of the housing and even on some race car located on the bottom of the rear housing. But all are intended to control side to side movement but with regard to roll center impact they seem to look only at packaging and not improved roll center. So while it nice to see everyone adaptation of a watts how it effects roll center always seems to be something not talked about much except in a very few instances. So designing something to fit and be adjustable is difficult and why the Fays as a bolt-in seems the easy choice, but at the expense of real estate.

Will continue to look at improving the rear via watts of panhard but it's the 10 lbs into a 5 lb bag that is the hardest part, adjust-ability is a whole other thing.

Here's Monte build that Justin has been working on although we haven't heard from him in some time. But it's a G frame with 3 link 9" and watts. Pics at the bottom of the page 4. Would be nice to hear from him and see if the project has moved forward since his last posts.
http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1055617&page=4
Bob

#1065840 - 04/04/20 09:42 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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I think if you search back 10(+) years when the discussion style here was a bit more theoretical, you can see some discussion about whether the roll center should remain fixed to the live axle, or fixed to the chassis. There are pluses and minuses with both. Personally I think the difference is usually unimportant, because we tolerate lots of front RCH migration with the stock front-end design.

One feature that I've written about but haven't seen anywhere else, is how unsprung mass is influenced by RCH when the suspension is put in roll. Basically, if unsprung-mass movement directly couples with sprung-mass movement, then a portion of the sprung mass will reflect back to the unsprung mass. Think of the unsprung and sprung masses as if they were sitting on the ends of a seesaw: the location of the fulcrum is critical for determining the mass reflected to either end. So, for the rear, decreasing RCH is good: it's just like moving the fulcrum closer to the heavier end of the seesaw (the sprung mass end) because we reduce the effective mass at the lighter end (the unsprung mass end). I know you have to think this through but I promise it will be worth the effort...

You just have to increase rear roll stiffness as you decrease the RCH if you want to maintain chassis balance, as Marcus noted some years back. Conversely, if we kept on raising the rear RCH to something like 40", the car wouldn't roll at all in turns, and we could eliminate front and rear sway bars. And life would be wonderful until encountering the first bump. Then, the car's dynamic response would be nothing short of nasty.

As I wrote before, every 3-link/Panhard or Watt's link design I've seen is heavier than the existing 4-link equivalent. That's what prompted my comment about the next-to-impossible-to-package Satchell link configuration*. But if we add some mass to the rear and simultaneously reduce RCH, then the net result might actually be reduced total unsprung mass.
_________________

*You can approximate a Satchell link by using a 3rd link up at top as is being currently proposed, and adding a link to one of the two bottom stock trailing arms in triangulation. Unsprung mass would be nearly identical to the existing 4-link. This would package better than a Satchell link, but it's still far from a panacea. One or both mufflers would still need to find a different home. But the nice thing about this is the considerable RCH benefit in going from the existing 18" to about 7".


Last edited by MAP; 04/04/20 10:01 PM.
#1065851 - 04/05/20 08:09 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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If I could stretch the theory in this conversation just a little more, notice that in the last post I talked about how mass in roll is influenced by RCH and the unsprung and sprung masses, in a comparison with a seesaw. In reality, all bumps at a single axle can be resolved into common-mode and difference-mode inputs seen at the wheels. If the axle rides over a ridge that deflects both wheels identically, then the input is purely common-mode. If the car rides on a flat surface and rolls in a curve, then the input is purely difference-mode. All suspension motion at a single axle can be resolved into a combination of the two modes.

So the very bold thing I'm saying is that the total reflected mass to the wheels, i.e., what we call the unsprung mass, is different between the common mode and the difference mode. It's always lower for the common mode, because purely vertical deflection of the suspension involves no lateral motion of the sprung mass component. The difference mode does create lateral motion of the sprung mass component, unless the RCH is exactly zero. Changing the RCH is exactly analogous to moving the fulcrum on a seesaw: when the RCH is zero, that's the equivalent of placing the fulcrum exactly underneath the end that supports the sprung mass.

One consequence of this complex relationship is that the weight we would measure with, say, a wheel scale under each rear tire, is not the same as the effective weight that's translating dynamically when the car is moving.

#1065867 - 04/07/20 01:11 AM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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^ Thats the kind of stuff I like reading, makes me think.


https://gbodyforum.com/threads/zr2-s10-8-6-rear-in-a-g-body-build.63106/

As promised, like to the "sandwiched plate" I spoke of.

Couldn't find a link for the bolt pattern of an 8.8 cover, or a 7.5. Havent exhausted my possible sources yet though. If it comes to it I can take a 7.5 I have and Travis' 8.8 into work when life is back to normal and plot it all using the DRO on a bridgeport.


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1065869 - 04/07/20 03:38 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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Correction to the above post, meant to say "link" not "like"


And In response to Hunter. I feel the same way, I've got plenty of my own time to waste, heck sometimes I get to waste it on the clock at work.

The 8.8 rear truss seems hokey to me, never liked it. If it works it works though.

I did happen to find a file for the 8.8 cover. Hunter PM me maybe we can get the ball rolling on a test part. I have a jig for all the pick up points.


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1065881 - 04/08/20 03:22 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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[Linked Image]


On top of getting further along with Travis' brace last night I made a first draft of sorts for an 8.8 4 link.

I do not know if they are offset so I didnt put any in it and who knows if the ears, once bent, end up putting the bushing hole in the same spot but it will be good enough for a test fit.

The tab on the bottom and the hole on the top are to stand off a set of cheap rod ends and a tube to further brace the top ears from twisting.

I think it will nee to be made of 3/8ths steel at minimum, which would be the thickest Ive done on my table, but we'll see.


On unemployment as of Monday, yippee.


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1065890 - 04/08/20 08:45 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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Spent some time with the plasma table today.

I think I have my table dialed in, cut some test brackets for the frame side of Travis' rear.

The picture doesn't show it well but they have a gap of about 1/4 to the frame plate in front of them. That's perfect as I am going to put a backing plate in front of these two plates.

There's also a barely visible hole in that frame plate I want to use to bolt to brace's backing plate.

If you reference the original picture from the first post in the thread it should give a better explanation than my words.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1065901 - 04/09/20 03:10 AM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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My first taste of a plasma cutter was 35 years ago cutting big holes in the roof of a new Ford van to stick a cheery picker in, Ma Bell was the owner.
You would think for as many hacksaw blades I've used up in that time there would be a plasma cutter in house, not. You've taken that to the next level with your setup, can make custom work much quicker, much cleaner, just gotta know how to program it. Cool tool.

My T56 uses a 1/2" thick steel plate to adapt it to old school bells, weighs 17 lbs. Thought i needed it made from alum instead, stopped at S&W to get an idea of what jetting that would entail, the chunk of alum was more than I was hoping to spend. Maybe next time, would have been 10 lbs off the front of the pig, but 20 bucks a pound!

I'm still kicking around the watts or what ever means to lower the RC. I'm certain within the confines back there I can make something fit and get RC down . Adjustable would be good but fixed it you could arrive at a know location to get close to optimum. This will be something for next Winter's project list.
Bob

#1065904 - 04/09/20 05:18 AM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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Originally Posted by MC96
Spent some time with the plasma table today.

I think I have my table dialed in, cut some test brackets for the frame side of Travis' rear.

The picture doesn't show it well but they have a gap of about 1/4 to the frame plate in front of them. That's perfect as I am going to put a backing plate in front of these two plates.

There's also a barely visible hole in that frame plate I want to use to bolt to brace's backing plate.

If you reference the original picture from the first post in the thread it should give a better explanation than my words.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]




looking dang good. Are you thinking of boxing the top? I'm a little worried about the thickness of the outer edges of the holes.


86 SS 6.0L LQ4, TBSS GEN IV intake, 92mm TB, 30lb injectors, Summit Stage 3 NA Cam, Stainless long tube headers, Stainless 3in exhaust, Microsquirt ECU, FABbot AR5 5-speed, Torsen LSD, QA1 Lvl 3 Suspension Kit, UMI Front & Rear Braces. Check out my build blog on Summit Racing's OnAll Cylinders https://www.onallcylinders.com/author/travis-jones/
#1065906 - 04/09/20 02:05 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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We could always do that.

I didn’t plan on leaving it as a slot for a final product either. So there will be more margin than ~1/4 at the top and bottom keeping it together.

Once I know generally where the top link locates height wise and have a general length for an upper link I can plot 3-4 holes on an arc


86 SS
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In progress
#1065916 - 04/10/20 08:27 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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Hi 96, Going back three posts to the photo of the front UCA mount, I think that roughly - what - 7/8" OD Tube(?) is vulnerable to bending with extreme longitudinal vehicular acceleration. I take it you're going to add a forward extension to bolt-up to the frame's central vertical brace, similar to your first CAD rendition in this thread?

Last edited by MAP; 04/10/20 08:28 PM.
#1065917 - 04/10/20 09:59 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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MC96 Offline
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St. Johns MI
Yup, thats what I'm in the process of cutting on the table as soon as I get a hold of some 1/4", gotta search my scrap heap.

Planning on fairly thick walled 1" DOM

[Linked Image]

Something like that. Although I know that the hole I am matching to is off center, so I need to account for that.


That and one day Travis will send me the upper link *nudge*


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1065918 - 04/11/20 01:49 AM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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MAP Offline
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MAP  Offline
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Looking good!

#1065919 - 04/11/20 02:28 AM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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MC96 Offline
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St. Johns MI
[Linked Image]


Now, spare yourself the horror of zooming in on the inner welds, ran out of gas right when I started and said screw it.

I guess that means I get to go to TSC tomorrow.

Our governor has extended our “stay at home” order until the 30th but we might be called back before then. Something about ventilator parts, I don’t see things moving quickly enough at work that they are ready for us to make something new by the 30th anyways.


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1065921 - 04/11/20 02:31 AM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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MC96 Offline
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MC96  Offline
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St. Johns MI
Oh and that hole offset was measured as 1/2 to the passenger side, which matches the hump of the rear frame crossmember and actually the drivelines’ offset.


86 SS
400SBC, 4l80e, MSD Atomic injection/trans controller, Tilt glass clip, all tubular arms, corvette brakes, 9" rear
In progress
#1065926 - 04/11/20 02:08 PM Re: Rear 3-link [Re: MC96]  
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SSLance Offline
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SSLance  Offline
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Peoria, AZ
I like the direction this is headed...


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
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