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#1059794 - 11/11/18 03:38 AM Power window question  
Joined: Jan 2008
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FinallySS Offline
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FinallySS  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2008
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Nice Sunny Hawaii
Aloha guys.

It's been a while. I'm currently rebuilding two Japanese motorcycle and didn't had much time with our beloved SS. But recently, I had a chance to drive my SS because my DD Lincoln needed some TLC (water pump went, which require to take off most of the water passage to get access) and noticed something rather strange.

My passenger side power window/motor sometimes does not work. What I mean is that it sometimes take a dump and stop working. Symptom is always happens when the window is in up swing. never on downward motion. when I tried to close the window, it stop randomly, usually more than half way up, but beyond that, it stop anywhere it wants to stop. Immediately after that, I tried to open the window but it won't move up or down. Let it rest for a while, it will work again, but it may stop again, it may close the window all the way. It does not do this every time. Just once in a while, but usually does it when you need it most, like when you're about to park the car or when it started rain and need to close the window (Yeah, my A/C works).

What could be the cause of this? Window motor has been changed little over year ago due to the body guys mistake. Motor is unknown brand I bought from evilbay. Window track, along with many other moving parts has been greased when I installed the new motor. Window does not have the jerking motion like the old motor that's about to die, or from lack of grease.


1986 Silver MCSS - Poly bushing and Hotchkis spring w/Bilstein, Posi w/3.73, MSD 6-AL, E-Brock 600cfm, Aluminum 2-row radiator.
1986 Black MCSS - R.I.P............Finally.
#1059816 - 11/12/18 07:25 PM Re: Power window question [Re: FinallySS]  
Joined: Mar 2000
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upflying Offline
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upflying  Offline
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Posts: 5,656
Reno, NV
You might want to make sure you are getting full battery voltage to the pink wires running to the switches and motors. Slow power windows is usually caused by resistance in the wiring and connections.


86 MCSS Notchback coupe, LS3, 4L65E, QP 9", Eaton Truetrac, 4 wheel disc, column shift, Dakota Digital, silver with maroon bench interior

#1059818 - 11/13/18 10:45 AM Re: Power window question [Re: FinallySS]  
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FinallySS Offline
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FinallySS  Offline
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Nice Sunny Hawaii
Thanks upflying. I haven't test the wires yet. I will as soon as I get a chance. Going between the SS, DD Lincoln and two bikes I'm trying to restore takes time and energy (most definite energy. damn, I miss my 20's).


1986 Silver MCSS - Poly bushing and Hotchkis spring w/Bilstein, Posi w/3.73, MSD 6-AL, E-Brock 600cfm, Aluminum 2-row radiator.
1986 Black MCSS - R.I.P............Finally.
#1059820 - 11/13/18 07:12 PM Re: Power window question [Re: FinallySS]  
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mmc427ss Offline
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mmc427ss  Offline
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Posts: 5,478
Pottstown, Pa
Just went through all these problems with my Astro windows, same as Monte for how the switching works.
Driver's window was intermittent, would go up a little stop, wait and it would go up a little more, sometimes it was ok. Commutator on motor was junk, replaced motor and now is fast and works 100% of the time.

Pass window was intermittent, most times would go down. Replaced the switch, didn't help. Checked the power to the window, it was fine. Checked the wires from the driver's door switch to pass switch for continuity, they were fine. So not a wiring or power problem. If you have a Electrical Supp you can see how the switches work in conjunction with each other. The switches flip the neg and + to make the windows go up or down. To complete the ground circuit both switches need to have good ground paths through the contacts. The couple year old driver's window switch on my van, Dorman, is junk and doesn't close the ground to the pass window 100% of the time, pass window is intermittent. Took the Dorman driver's door switch apart, quality of contacts is poor, cleaned then, reinstalled, still intermittent. New driver's door switch will be installed, but not a Dorman. Napa switch is a Dorman with a Napa sticker placed over the Dorman sticker, Will buy a Delco or Standard for that replacement.

Check power to the pink to both switches,
Check continuity between the DK BLUE/WHITE and TAN from the driver's to pass switch to eliminate a broken wire.
Check DK BLUE and BROWN from drivers switch to ground, should show continuity. The same color wires on the pass side should show continuity.
HTH
Bob

#1059906 - 11/18/18 11:17 PM Re: Power window question [Re: FinallySS]  
Joined: Jan 2008
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FinallySS Offline
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FinallySS  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,200
Nice Sunny Hawaii
Sorry for late reply. Thanks Bob.

I still haven't had time to check the window electrical. This time, SS needs power steering pump and been working on that with modification to the pump. Still not finished yet as I'm waiting on drill bit to come in. Damn those 1-inch bolt are tough to loosen.

Anyway, as soon as I find out what was wrong, I'll post it up here.


1986 Silver MCSS - Poly bushing and Hotchkis spring w/Bilstein, Posi w/3.73, MSD 6-AL, E-Brock 600cfm, Aluminum 2-row radiator.
1986 Black MCSS - R.I.P............Finally.
#1059913 - 11/19/18 02:12 AM Re: Power window question [Re: FinallySS]  
Joined: Dec 1999
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86ttop Offline
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86ttop  Offline
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Posts: 11,911
Brooksville, Fl
Member gmachines(I think) has a harness he sells to overcome the difficulties of the power windows, Good luck!!


Leo Paugh
It's not an attitude, it's just the way I am.
POW*MIA
You are not forgotten
If things improve with age, I must be approaching magnificent. thumbs
#1060654 - 02/05/19 10:11 PM Re: Power window question [Re: 86ttop]  
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 257
wanadrv Offline
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wanadrv  Offline
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Posts: 257
Wentzville, MO
Ok, it may be in here but I feel like I have read so many threads that I am more confused than before. Here is what I know:

1) both the main and passenger switch are brand new and perform exactly like the ones I thought were bad and took out
2) the main switch powers the driver's side both up and down perfectly
3) the main switch "passenger side" doesn' t do anything (unless I touch the pin that extends out the back of the passenger switch to the metal on the pass door). If I do that it makes the window go up.
4) the pass switch makes the window go up but only makes it go down if I touch that same pin to the door

confusing, right? any help is appreciated


'82 Monte - sold
'87 SS Frame of Resto for my Son
#1060660 - 02/06/19 03:14 PM Re: Power window question [Re: FinallySS]  
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,478
mmc427ss Offline
20+ Year
mmc427ss  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,478
Pottstown, Pa
Here's the wiring diagram for the power windows.
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/power-window-wiring.18540/

Do you have a multimeter?

By touching that pin to ground you are completing the ground to the motor. That tall pin is either the C or D terminal on the plug. There is no ground connection to chassis ground on the pass door. The ground for the doors is located in the driver's door.and is supplied to the pass switch through the driver's switch for the pass side.

I would first check to make sure those grounds have continuity from the driver's to the pass switch. Check the YELLOW wire with the meter touching the B terminal at the driver's switch, the other lead from the meter touching the B (YELLOW) terminal on the pass switch. Do the same for the DK BLU/WHITE wires on both switches. The wire passing through the door jamb can fatigue over time and break from opening and closing the door.
There is a plug connection in the pass kick panel area for the window harness. It may be corroded and not making a good connection.
Bob

#1062966 - 07/30/19 07:10 AM Re: Power window question [Re: FinallySS]  
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,200
FinallySS Offline
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FinallySS  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,200
Nice Sunny Hawaii
Post from the dead......................

Anyway, I finally had chance to work on my SS and found what was wrong with the window, rather motor.

I finally went ahead and got myself AC Delco motor and was going run a relay. But that require some time, so I just went ahead and replace the motor. I will run relays, hopefully soon, but for now just the motor swap. Took the old motor out and hook up the connector and the motor wouldn't run. Yes. I did ground the motor body but no movement at all. Went through same step with new motor and it run pretty fast as no load was on the motor.

I just wanted to post this in case anybody had same problem. BTW, my motor was pretty new. I did replace the motor when I got the car back from the body shop. But that's only two years ago. And the car wasn't driven that much and motor went dead. I forgot what brand of motor I bought, but I know it wasn't Delco stuff. So don't buy cheap stuff. Unless you want to remove the door panel frequently.


1986 Silver MCSS - Poly bushing and Hotchkis spring w/Bilstein, Posi w/3.73, MSD 6-AL, E-Brock 600cfm, Aluminum 2-row radiator.
1986 Black MCSS - R.I.P............Finally.

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