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#1049206 - 03/24/17 06:40 PM Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies  
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SSLance Offline
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Some basics of my setup first:

Its a 10.1 cr 383 SBC, 0.534/0.537 lift cam that makes 18" vac at idle, Fastburn heads, dual plane intake and a quadrajet, 525 ft lb at 4700 rpm, 467 hp at 5400 rpm. I street drive the car as well as race it on autocross and road course events 15-20 times a year.

During it's first season, I noticed significant oil blow by coming out the breather on the pass side valve cover, the driver side VC has a PCV valve plumbed to the carb. I'm investigating cures ranging from a engine driven Vac pump setup to just a catch can with a breather. My main concern is capturing the escaping oil, but I'm trying to figure out if putting a complete crankcase evac setup on the car would be a worthwhile investment.

I just started reading about the vacuum pumps yesterday and a few things concern me. It appears that they are mainly used in drag race applications to free up a few horsepower and to help the rings seal to make a little more power. I also read that the pumps need a little bit of oil to go thru them to keep them lubed.

I'm not really trying to eek every last little bit of power out of the engine and it gets street driven regularly...will a vacuum pump survive under just regular driving...not getting rung out on ever single run like a drag race application? And is it worth the cost (like $750-1000) and the hassle of mounting one and trying to run a belt to it for my application?

Or should I just plumb in a catch can tot he pass side valve cover and call it good?

Now onto that part... Is there a way to adapt a -12 type fitting to my existing breather hole in my valve cover or is my only option to have a fitting welded to the valve cover somehow? I'm not opposed to modding them but if I didn't have to it would make this more of a home remedy type job.

Here are some engine pics for reference...as you can see there is a lot going on under there so space is at a premium.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

I welcome any ideas from those with experience in this area.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1049207 - 03/24/17 07:43 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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Witness86SS Offline
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Calling BS. You made this thread just to show off that beautiful engine.


Justin
1986 Black SS
Upgrades: 350 L05 - Hooker Longtubes - FlowMaster True Dual 2.5" - Electric Cutouts - Electric Fans - Transcooler - Proforged Steering Kit - Astro Shaft - AR62 OUTLAW II Wheels - Energy Suspension Bushings - Bitflipper Chip - 87 ECM - Moog Springs and Ball Joints - Bilstein Shocks - Bucket Seats
#1049210 - 03/24/17 11:31 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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84ss355*4spd Offline
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Lmao ! Good one . Is it maybe just the seal on the breather and oil is getting thrown past the seal .maybe use a breather on passenger side and pvc on driver side .Engine and the car are very clean looks like alot of fun cant wait till my 84 ss is finished .


84ss current restoration
86 ss gone
85 ss new
85 z28 tpi
[Linked Image][Linked Image][Linked Image]
#1049220 - 03/25/17 03:42 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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SSLance Offline
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Originally Posted by Witness86SS
Calling BS. You made this thread just to show off that beautiful engine.



Well, Thanks! But to be totally honest those pictures were taken about 6 years ago and it no longer looks anywhere near that pretty now. Way too many rainy race days have taken their toll for sure.


Another friend pointed me toward Mighty Mouse Catch Cans... Tons of useful information at MightyMouse. Here is the link if anyone else goes looking for it...

http://www.mightymousesolutions.com/mm-catch-cans

I have contacted them about putting together a custom setup for my application.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1049237 - 03/26/17 05:42 AM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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The first thing that comes to mind is why so much blowby? I just run an AC Delco CV774C PVC, 3/8" line to the carb base, on the other valve cover a 3/4" tube to the air cleaner, a totally stock SS mesh filter inside the housing. The original factory setup was pretty good, works well on engine with decent vac at idle. A plus to having the PVC fresh air intakes filter setup like stock is the filter can be used to monitor the blowby when the engine is running at low vacuum, WOT. At that time "smoke" is coming out both holes. A lot of oil in the intake filter tells the story. It's been 10 years with a little abuse now and then, can say the filter gets a light dusting of oil by the end of the season, Why so much blowby?

No real experience with catch cans or any other system. Drag cars do use them, probably the track cars that get lots of high rpm miles also. Not sure if it's still legal but drag cars would plumb the valve covers to the header collector on each side, Not something you want to do on a street car even if you have minimal blowby.

On your engine it would be a PITA to reinstall the stock air pump. It originally was driven by the water pump, bolted to where your new alt bracket is mounted. Your belt configuration makes things a little more interesting. Changing the water pump pulley so the pump saw overdrive at the pump location, which is normal, then plumbing it to the valve covers, a lot of hose. Got to be an easier way.

It's not a big deal to have an AN fitting welded to a cast alum valve cover, just some time involved in prep, and people will notice that someone was weldin there. Today just about anything in AN can be had in any color you want. You can also remove the anodizing so you can weld it. No problems getting that done, just need to find someone to do it.

When you pull the valve cover another problem area to check is the internal baffling at the PVC ports. Most aftermarket valve covers are poor. Again it's very hard to beat what GM did 50 years ago and continued to do on there stamped tin covers for decades afterwards. There purpose is to separate the oil from the blowby, When clean and sludge free they work very well. When shopping for valve covers for the new build there was 5 sets of valve covers sitting on a bench, three sets of new top shelf, over a grand. I sent them all back and had a pair of fabricated made because all had faults with PVC baffling. When you run a wide body rocker arm they will hit the baffles, not good. So either you do the stupid thing GM did with there expensive cast cover and just put a plate across the opening or you do nothing at all and tell people to stick a filter in the hole after you install the cover. Neither are good ideas. A pair of downsized alum baffles with the same number of baffles was fabbed and welded into a the new covers, why can't that be done on most all the aftermarket covers. Some sets of covers I've seen do have good baffling, ain't the norm. There is a lot of splashing going on inside the covers, the baffles need to be able to deal with it. Something to check.

By the way the stock air pump is actually a good unit, large seal bearings on each side of the pump, doesn't require oil. The thing that would concern me would be the front seal over time. Would it weep when not running being it's not seeing a vac internally when sitting. It was designed for clean air, not moving air with oil. I still have a stock pump mounted to the engine, need to "show" it to get an emissions sticker. It was disassembled, glass beaded, cleared, the rotor removed, it's a free wheeling thing of beauty. One of these days I can remove it when they stop putting an emission sticker on the car.

Before you jump into all the extra plumbing make sure what you have is working correctly.
Bob

#1049238 - 03/26/17 01:47 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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SSLance Offline
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Why so much blow by... I was directed to the following article and discovered that at high load WOT conditions, PCV valves will close instead of staying open causing a foul air condition and ALL blow by gases to exit the engine via the vent which in my current case is just a breather meant only to allow fresh air into the crank case. Considering how much time my engine spends at high load WOT...this is all starting to make a lot more sense.

http://www.shophemi.com/images/media/p-2273-arrington_ccv_bible.pdf

I'm thinking option 3 from the above is a good fix, twin catch cans with no PCV valve. This way air plenum and intake vacuum is pulled from both valve covers at all times under all conditions and all air coming from the crankcase goes thru a oil/air separator first before entering the engine to be consumed in the combustion chamber.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1049239 - 03/26/17 03:11 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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GuysMonteSS Offline
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Very interesting article Lance.
I am also having issues with oil coming out the breather and running down the valve cover.
If you go the #3 route could you post part numbers and pictures ??
Guy


GuysMonteSS '86 SS,513 BBC,AFR Heads,UDHarold/Bullet Custom Solid Roller Cam,706 lift,255/263 @ .050,Jesel Shaft Rockers,Balanced & Blueprinted,Doug Nash 4+1 5 Speed,Hurst In-Line Shifter,Ford 9 Inch Rear,SC&C Street Comp Stage 2+ Front End Kit...
#1049240 - 03/26/17 03:29 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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SSLance Offline
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Freaking catch cans are EXPENSIVE!! I'm waiting until I hear back from the Might Mouse guy first. There are a couple different theories but I'm leaning towards a fix that provides at least 10 KPA vacuum in the crankcase at idle. The Mighty mouse catch can uses his own PCV valve that he specs for your specific engine and you can get away with only one can saving money.

I have a 1 1/8" baffled hole in each valve cover and a 7/8" hole in my air filter plenum between filter and carb that is currently blocked. Would love a bolt on solution to fit those 3 ports.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1049243 - 03/26/17 05:15 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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Just finished reading the pdf, yes I get it, engine that operate at sustained high rpm need something more than a PVC. I do also get the fact that the writer of that article is promoting his expensive catch cans. A two catch can system from Arrington could be 700 bucks when done. The size of their can is pretty large, would have a problem finding a place higher than the engine to mount a can 12x12x6. Not familiar with how all these very high hp new cars today do the PVC, but the Feds do have a lot to say about that. From reading posts from two supercharged LS builds here there is an issue with oil separation.

Matt is using a Tracy Lewis setup. Not sure if Jonathan has addressed this issue yet.
http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1034182&page=7
http://teamrxp.com/

Did a lot of looking and reading this morning. It seems catch cans are widely used in performance applications, but, most I've seem are simple two port with small lines that plug into the original intake port for vac. Good for daily drivers and occasional WOT but don't address the concerns of the Arrington pdf about having enough volume to support sustained WOT.
Bob

#1049244 - 03/26/17 07:10 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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The PC Surgeon Offline
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Here is a cheaper alternative to test your theory. I did the same thing you are considering. Worked great! Only when WOT conditions occurred, I would come home and drain the tank. Usually found 1 tablespoon or less. My WOT would last at least a 1/2 mile, usually not longer than that.
http://www.allstarperformance.com/product.htm?prod=25

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

#1049248 - 03/26/17 09:51 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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mmc427ss Offline
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Ben guess I'll need to check that out at Carlisle. So fresh air in through the one valve cover, pulling vapors out of the other cover, vapors to the can, and the other side of the can is connected to a vac source at the carb? Is there a check valve or PVC in line?

All this has me thinking it's not a big deal to install a catch can, seeing how much gets collect would be interesting. As Lance said finding a place to hang something sizable is a problem. Minimum hose lengths, being able to drain it, getting a large enough suction line to it, and hiding it would be a trick.

The carb on my engine has been off many times through the years, On a Qjet using the 3/8" port for PVC at the front it's easy to tell how much you're sucking oil through the PVC, I would say I've been pleased that the there are some telltale signs of oil but nothing that I would be out of the ordinary. Usually the bottoms side of the primary wells will get a hard coating over time, a discoloration is the worst I've seen on this build. Never wet under the carb or in the intake plenum.

While searching for catch can info I was curious about what the real high tech engines that run WOT for hours do about positive pressure in the crankcase. Well engines that are dry sumped use the evacuation pumps for the creating negative pressure. With several pumps running at same point they are sucking oil and air. I would assume they pump it back into a huge reservoir where it gets separated, The side benefit to a dry sump system is probably very good ventilation.
Bob

#1049251 - 03/27/17 01:34 AM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: mmc427ss]  
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The PC Surgeon Offline
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Hi Bob,
Not quite that complicated. Both breathers go to the tank. The billet breathers did have a spring and ball within but I removed them. No PVC plumbed in. Just a simple CCV line from each valve cover to the dual bung catch can.
About Carlisle? It's complicated.


Originally Posted by mmc427ss
Ben guess I'll need to check that out at Carlisle. So fresh air in through the one valve cover, pulling vapors out of the other cover, vapors to the can, and the other side of the can is connected to a vac source at the carb? Is there a check valve or PVC in line?

All this has me thinking it's not a big deal to install a catch can, seeing how much gets collect would be interesting. As Lance said finding a place to hang something sizable is a problem. Minimum hose lengths, being able to drain it, getting a large enough suction line to it, and hiding it would be a trick.

The carb on my engine has been off many times through the years, On a Qjet using the 3/8" port for PVC at the front it's easy to tell how much you're sucking oil through the PVC, I would say I've been pleased that the there are some telltale signs of oil but nothing that I would be out of the ordinary. Usually the bottoms side of the primary wells will get a hard coating over time, a discoloration is the worst I've seen on this build. Never wet under the carb or in the intake plenum.

While searching for catch can info I was curious about what the real high tech engines that run WOT for hours do about positive pressure in the crankcase. Well engines that are dry sumped use the evacuation pumps for the creating negative pressure. With several pumps running at same point they are sucking oil and air. I would assume they pump it back into a huge reservoir where it gets separated, The side benefit to a dry sump system is probably very good ventilation.
Bob

#1049269 - 03/27/17 03:57 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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SSLance Offline
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The issue I see with Ben's setup is there is no vacuum signal at all on the CCV system. It just allows the crankcase to breath out using blowby to push the dirty air out and there is no path for fresh air to flow into the Crankcase.

The Stage 3 method of two catch cans that flow both directions and no PCV seems like the easier solution than installing a evac pump setup like most large displacement drag racers use. This setup puts just enough vacuum signal on both valve covers at all times to keep fresh air in crankcase and does not restrict foul air discharge under WOT high load situations while filtering oil out of both sides.

I wonder if just one catch can and Tees in lines from both valve covers would be enough for my application? In other words both valve covers plumbed to one catch can and the other side of the catch can plumbed directly too the air filter housing for a constant vacuum signal.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1049272 - 03/27/17 05:09 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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The PC Surgeon Offline
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Originally Posted by SSLance
The issue I see with Ben's setup is there is no vacuum signal at all on the CCV system. It just allows the crankcase to breath out using blowby to push the dirty air out and there is no path for fresh air to flow into the Crankcase.

The Stage 3 method of two catch cans that flow both directions and no PCV seems like the easier solution than installing a evac pump setup like most large displacement drag racers use. This setup puts just enough vacuum signal on both valve covers at all times to keep fresh air in crankcase and does not restrict foul air discharge under WOT high load situations while filtering oil out of both sides.

I wonder if just one catch can and Tees in lines from both valve covers would be enough for my application? In other words both valve covers plumbed to one catch can and the other side of the catch can plumbed directly too the air filter housing for a constant vacuum signal.



Lance, your use dictates a vacuum signal as you mentioned. I tried my setup different ways when it was on the dyno and what I have now, works very well for my motor. My setup is no better than dual breathers on the valve covers with a air/oil separator. Not all the catch cans are constructed correctly as some are very restrictive. Some have a connecting tube with a hole inside pointing up instead of down to the bottom of the catch can. With my type of can, you can tap a hole and add a 1/2" vacuum line. Talk to your engine builder for some more details. I'm almost making 10" of vacuum at idle of 1000rpm. Just enough for my aftermarket fuel injection system. I'm sure you make more vacuum than I do.

#1049274 - 03/27/17 05:21 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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SSLance Offline
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My engine builder wants me to put an air evac pump system on it, but he's only concerned about making maximum HP in short bursts (Mainly drag racer).

He said otherwise just put a catch can on the breather side to catch the blow by oil.

I only want to do this once and don't mind spending a few more dollars in parts if I can do it once and do it right and never have to think about it again. I'm mainly concerned now about finding fittings that will adapt my valve cover holes to large enough lines to run to catch cans. I'd rather not have to weld bungs onto one or both of my valve covers is I don't have to. Plus I need one to still be able to open for oil fill. Also need to attach one or two vacuum lines to the 7/8" pipe coming out the bottom of my air breather housing.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1049285 - 03/27/17 08:54 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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Hey Lance I also contacted Mighty Mouse and heard back from them.
They need more info and pictures before they can get back to me.
That will have to wait a couple of days as I'm in the bush and can't access my laptop and internet to send pictures.
Guy


GuysMonteSS '86 SS,513 BBC,AFR Heads,UDHarold/Bullet Custom Solid Roller Cam,706 lift,255/263 @ .050,Jesel Shaft Rockers,Balanced & Blueprinted,Doug Nash 4+1 5 Speed,Hurst In-Line Shifter,Ford 9 Inch Rear,SC&C Street Comp Stage 2+ Front End Kit...
#1049290 - 03/28/17 12:40 AM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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i put on in my ls swap last summer.....nice stuff. i ended up mounting mine just behind the passenger side head lamp on the rad shop

#1049294 - 03/28/17 04:15 AM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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mmc427ss Offline
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Did a little reading on vac pumps, doesn't seem like the way to go on a car that sees a lot of street miles. GM smog pump won't live to long, a specific built pump and mounts plus the misc gets pricey.
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/vacuum-pumps.html

I need to go back and read the last couple pages of that pdf you posted on CCV. My thoughts are why can't you have the best of both worlds. When just cruising around the the stock PVC system is doing the purging. Install a separator is in line between the PVC valve and the carb cleaning up that line. Then have a catch can tied to both valve covers using large lines running to the can. When cruising fresh air is pulled through the can to the valve covers. At WOT the PVC valve goes closed, both valve covers are dumping the CCV back to the can to be vented to atmosphere.

Looked at many available cans, some huge, must be a hundred different ones available. Many new cars have a problem with WOT, BMW, Dodge hemi, LS's, even Eco-Boost 6 cyl, Colorado pickups, there are kits all over the place to help remedy that problem. On the 6th Gen 1LE Camaro Chevy puts a track only separator that screws in where the oil fill cap is on the valve cover, it's in a bag in the trunk when you take delivery. Kinda a neat separator, it collects the oil then drains it back into the valve cover when you park the car.
http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?p=1145

Here's an interesting link, a homegrown crude separator and at the the end of that link a separator in the line between the PVC valve and the Qjet. Hmmm.

Lance you would find very little negative pressure in the air cleaner housing at WOT, not enough to purge the catch can. My issue with open top catch cans with a filter on top is I've read of complaints where you could smell the fumes in the car. The stuff we send down the intake with a stock PVC system does stink. Most engines you see without a PVC have a large "breather" in each valve cover. When you push these cars hard you can smell them. A friend's 440 Dart is like that.

On page 132 of Bill Jenkins bible it discusses CCV.
https://www.scribd.com/doc/110755831/The-Chevrolet-Racing-Engine-Bill-Jenkins
Bob

#1049301 - 03/28/17 05:37 AM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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When I originally built my 383 it had blow by issues. I thought about doing the evac setup into the heads but ended up re-ringing it with total seal gap less rings. Whats wrong with using the evac setup on the street?


'86 Monte carlo ss-Frame off resto-mod.
Ls2/t56/8.5"
#1049303 - 03/28/17 01:20 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: mmc427ss]  
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SSLance Offline
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Originally Posted by Onebadbowtie86
Whats wrong with using the evac setup on the street?


From what I understand, those pumps need a bit of the oil from the blow by to lube them. My concern would be during normal street driving the pump wouldn't see any oil since no blow by and therefore shorten it's lifespan.

Originally Posted by mmc427ss
My thoughts are why can't you have the best of both worlds. When just cruising around the the stock PVC system is doing the purging. Install a separator is in line between the PVC valve and the carb cleaning up that line. Then have a catch can tied to both valve covers using large lines running to the can. When cruising fresh air is pulled through the can to the valve covers. At WOT the PVC valve goes closed, both valve covers are dumping the CCV back to the can to be vented to atmosphere.



I'm looking at doing something just like this, only I want to vent the catch can back to the air cleaner for a completely closed system for reasons you stated above.

Actually, I'm designing a system more like stage 3 in the link but using Tees and only one catch can. I pulled my VC breather and PCV housings this morning and am looking at gutting them and using them to plumb lines from VCs to a catch can and then plumb the clean side of the catch can to the air cleaner plenum. It'll be just like Stage 3 except I'll only have one can instead of 2.

This way I can still pull the fitting to fill the oil and won't have to weld bungs onto my valve covers. I can then just play with lines and catch cans until I get a setup that can handle what I'm throwing at it. I really don't think I make THAT MUCH blow by so 2 cans would probably be overkill.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1049305 - 03/28/17 02:29 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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SSLance Offline
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Most of you know I'm a visual guy...here is a picture of the setup I'm leaning toward.

[Linked Image]

I took my PCV and breather assemblies apart this morning and I think I can modify and use these for the Valve cover side of the plumbing.

[Linked Image]

And here is the hole in my air cleaner housing for the clean air side.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Now I just need to figure out if I can get by with one catch can or two and put the plan into motion.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1049306 - 03/28/17 03:57 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
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SSLance Offline
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So, just had a long conversation with David at Mighty Mouse and I placed an order for some parts. He's a good dude who understands this issue well and helped me decide what I needed without going total overkill for my setup.

We went with his PCV can with both a breather on top, an additional recirculator top for the can which will let me run a line to an additional catch can if needed during long road course sessions, and a brake booster mounting kit.

PCV Can
Fitting 2: 3/8" Hose Barb
Fitting 3: Oil Sight
Price: $200.00
http://www.mightymousesolutions.com/product-page/pcv-tuner-can

'Recirculator' your can
Fitting:: 3/8" Hose Barb
Order Type:: Old order upgrade
Price: $50.00
http://www.mightymousesolutions.com/product-page/recirculator-your-can

MM Can Mounting Kits
Mounting Kit: GM Truck Booster
Price: $20.00
http://www.mightymousesolutions.com/product-page/mm-can-mounting-kits

This setup is good for up to 600 HP.

The recirculator top is a backup in case for some strange reason I fill the catch can up with oil during a long road course session. With the breather top it would just push the oil out the breather and make a mess and be unsafe. It is very unlikely this will be an issue but I want to have the recirculator top with me the first couple of track days just in case. If I end up not needing it, he'll let me return it as long as it in in resalable condition.

The install plan is to gut my current PCV housing and use it to plumb the driver valve cover to the inlet side of catch can. The can has a PCV in it which will be plumbed to the intake vacuum. I'll get another PCV housing just like the one I have, gut it, put it in Pass side Valve cover and run it to the bottom of my air cleaner housing for a fresh air intake to the crankcase. Boom...Should solve any crankcase ventilation and blow by issues, keep oil from spewing down the side of my valve cover and might even help with the garage fumes from time to time.


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
#1049323 - 03/29/17 04:11 AM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,474
mmc427ss Offline
20+ Year
mmc427ss  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,474
Pottstown, Pa
Take some pics of the can, and measurements. The can you bought has two in fittings so both valve covers will go to the can? The PVC port will go to the carb 3/8" port? The top of the can, vent, will go back into the air cleaner housing, or, it can have the filter element screwed on. I like it, simple. Did David say that 3/8" lines would be ok for you? From what I gathered reading about cans 3/8" is marginal, seems bigger is better.

That hole in the air cleaner for the clean air side is large enough you could go 3/4", that's the standard size for a clean air piping on a SBC, the tube from the air cleaner into the valve cover is 3/4" OD on mine. There are numerous grommets available that would go into the valve cover holes, which are usually a standard size. It wouldn't be to difficult to adapt 1/2" hose to both valve covers with alum tube. When at the U-pulls I picked several alum tubes that GM used there. Just a matter of some cutting and a TIG to glue up so nice 1/2" 90s to attach hose to. That's why I asked about 3/8" hose, or would larger hose be better.

Location of can. How high does it need to be? On most late model engine installs I see it's about even with the valve covers. My thoughts on my engine would be above the fuel pump, behind the alt. On our engine with all the clutter it's hard to finds a spot that it's close to all the ports. Depending on where you put the can you could end up with a lot more than 10' of hose. It would be nice if that could be cut in half, say 7' for 4 hoses. That why I like the above the fuel pump location, not a big deal to make brackets to attach there. If you look at the most install on late model engines the can is located close to the front exhaust ports, some even attach to the header bolts there. So I would guess heat isn't a problem.

The sight glass on the Mighty Mouse I do like. Saw a few cans that had an external clear tube to see the level, looked tacky. Did I mention the black can and fittings is right up my alley? So far I like what I see.
Bob

#1049325 - 03/29/17 10:22 AM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,827
406monte Offline
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406monte  Offline
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,827
Hubert, NC
Hey Lance, long time since I have been on here. I see that I am not the only that suffers from this symptom. I have been trying to find a good remedy for this forever and have looked into catch cans before. I looked over the MM site and think I am going to contact them as well to see what they say is best for me.


84 Monte Carlo SC 406 SBC
78 Monte Carlo 305 sbc SOLD
78 Monte Carlo Landua 350 sbc SOLD
81 Malibu Classic 350 sbc SOLD
84 Monte Carlo LS 350 sbc SOLD
84 Buick Regal 229 v6 SOLD

#1049385 - 03/30/17 02:34 PM Re: Need input on crankcase evacuation remedies [Re: SSLance]  
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,547
SSLance Offline
10+ Year
SSLance  Offline
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Member

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,547
Peoria, AZ
So David explained to me that the fresh air inlet side needs to be restrictive...like hard to blow thru restrictive. He said it takes very little fresh air intake to replenish the foul air the PCV pulls from the engine under normal conditions.

Now when the engine goes into high load, WOT condition...the foul air will find the path of least resistance to leave the engine...and we want that to be thru the catch can and out the breather on it...not out the fresh air inlet into the air cleaner housing. David said to put a washer inside the PCV nipple on the pass side to try to restrict it even more than the 3/8s size it is now.

My friend does not have a PCV housing like he thought so I'm back to square one there. Might try to modify my breather housing...block the holes in the bottom of it and drill & tap the side to put a barbed nipple on it to run ot air cleaner housing.

As far as mounting, I bought the brake booster bracket which attaches to the brake booster bolts and hangs is there. We'll just have to see where it fits the best. He said it does not need to be higher than valve covers, just easy to get too.

One other thing he said I have to watch for especially during road racing. Say I'm on a long straight at WOT which pumps a lot of oil into the valve covers, then I hit the brakes hard for a corner. That excess oil that hasn't drained out yet will splash forward and possibly cover the baffle and let oil be drawn directly into the catch can. He said my tall covers really help with this and LS engines really have a hard time with this. This is why I bought the recirculating top for the can. Just in case this happens my first time at track and the can fills enough to soak the breather on top and push oil out, I can swap tops and plumb the output at top of can to another overflow of some sort. Same thing can happen on the pass side say going into a hard left hander after a WOT blast...pushing excess oil still in pass side valve cover over the baffle.

These are the things we aren't sure of until we test...


Lance
1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car
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