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#1048294 - 02/18/17 12:49 AM 1988 mc ss front nose  
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1988SilverBulletMCSS Offline
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1988SilverBulletMCSS  Offline
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Daytona Beach, FL
Does anyone know how to get the front nose of the car off? I'm planning to install engine and transmission but the front nose will not allow me to

#1048303 - 02/18/17 03:16 AM Re: 1988 mc ss front nose [Re: 1988SilverBulletMCSS]  
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spacemanspif Offline
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Sewell, NJ
Bolts along the side at the edge of the fenders. Bolts on top and plastic rivets under the bumper. The nose is just a skin, the bumper honeycomb pushes out all the way to the back of the nose so you won't gain and distance with the nose off. No possibility of engending your engine hoist boom or approaching from the side?


-Mike

F-body bucket seats, camaro console, carb'd 5.3/4L80E swap

Fastest time to date: 13.390 @ 102.42
Best r/t: 0.007 I got lucky smile

Killed a few cones too

#1048309 - 02/18/17 01:22 PM Re: 1988 mc ss front nose [Re: spacemanspif]  
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1988SilverBulletMCSS Offline
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1988SilverBulletMCSS  Offline
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Daytona Beach, FL
No im trying to install engine and trans.... ok if I take the front clip off can I just sit it on the ground with no problems?

#1048310 - 02/18/17 02:55 PM Re: 1988 mc ss front nose [Re: 1988SilverBulletMCSS]  
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upflying Offline
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upflying  Offline
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Posts: 5,651
Reno, NV
I removed the front clip when I did the LS swap. I did mine piece by piece, bolt by bolt to avoid damage. But you can do it as a unit. It will be heavy and you might tweak something if you remove it whole. This is also a good time to rebuild your door hinges.
Second foto shows the nose removal. Red arrows point to "protrusions" on the ends of the aluminum bumper that can cut into the sides of the soft SS nose. I ground them down about a 1/4" on each side. The eggcrate is important for maintaining the shape of the nose.
No clip makes it very easy for an engine and trans install. I would not do it any other way.




Last edited by upflying; 02/18/17 03:14 PM.

86 MCSS Notchback coupe, LS3, 4L65E, QP 9", Eaton Truetrac, 4 wheel disc, column shift, Dakota Digital, silver with maroon bench interior

#1048316 - 02/18/17 07:01 PM Re: 1988 mc ss front nose [Re: 1988SilverBulletMCSS]  
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malibudave78 Offline
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Houston, TX
If the nose is too long, and the engine hoist arm is not long enough, it might be easier installing the engine from the side.

Put car on jack stands. Jack stands go behind the rear wheels.
Remove tire on the side you will use to install the engine.
If the hood is in the way, unbolt the fender bolts that will allow you to pivot the hood strait up. DO NOT REMOVE THE HOOD FROM THE HINGES.

I hope some of what I wrote made sense.

This procedure might be an easier option than removing the front nose.

#1048323 - 02/19/17 01:42 AM Re: 1988 mc ss front nose [Re: 1988SilverBulletMCSS]  
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Hunter79764 Offline
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Hunter79764  Offline
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Grand Prairie, Tx
I'm assuming you say not to remove the hood to avoid future realignment issues? If so, a trick my grandpa showed me was to drill a small (1/8"?) hole through the hood hinge and BOTTOM skin of the hood. Make sure you don't punch through... then remove the hood, and when you reinstall, use the drilled hole and bit as an alignment pin. Use a slightly different size on each side so you can leave the first pin in place while aligning the second side if you don't have two 1/8" bits.


Shawn

'85 MC with budget 5.3L swap, TH350 with stock 2.14 rear end
It ain't much off the line, but it's nice on the highway
#1048329 - 02/19/17 03:40 AM Re: 1988 mc ss front nose [Re: upflying]  
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1988SilverBulletMCSS Offline
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1988SilverBulletMCSS  Offline
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Daytona Beach, FL
I would love to take the front clip of so I can install both engine and trans and I have my brother helping me take the front clip off.. do you think it's ok to sit it on the ground until I'm done with installing the engine at least? Also what do you mean by doing the door hinges?

#1048379 - 02/21/17 03:43 PM Re: 1988 mc ss front nose [Re: 1988SilverBulletMCSS]  
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DiamondSnake Offline
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Québec, QC
Having tried to remove the engine from the side, i don't recommend it, it became more of a problem (For me anyway) than just unbolting the nose off and removing the waffle cushion, thus gaining a lot more room to move from the front.

But if anyone has done it from the side without issue, than they will be better counsel than me on that technique lol smile

Last edited by DiamondSnake; 02/21/17 03:44 PM.
#1048385 - 02/21/17 08:55 PM Re: 1988 mc ss front nose [Re: 1988SilverBulletMCSS]  
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 5,651
upflying Offline
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upflying  Offline
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Reno, NV
Originally Posted By: 1988SilverBulletMCSS
I would love to take the front clip of so I can install both engine and trans and I have my brother helping me take the front clip off.. do you think it's ok to sit it on the ground until I'm done with installing the engine at least? Also what do you mean by doing the door hinges?

It's ok to let the front clip sit on the ground as a whole structure. Scratches, nicks, dings and perhaps stressing brackets are likely to occur since it is a bulky, heavy object.
The door hinges are almost always worn which causes the doors to sag. Unless you recently installed new door hinge bushings, the time to work on them is when the front clip is off. You can see how easy it is to get to them in one of my photos.
Remove one hinge at a time to prevent the door adjustment from shifting.

Last edited by upflying; 02/21/17 08:59 PM.

86 MCSS Notchback coupe, LS3, 4L65E, QP 9", Eaton Truetrac, 4 wheel disc, column shift, Dakota Digital, silver with maroon bench interior

#1048673 - 03/05/17 05:14 PM Re: 1988 mc ss front nose [Re: 1988SilverBulletMCSS]  
Joined: Mar 2017
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tom120 Offline
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tom120  Offline
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Phila PA
If you are walking the entire nose off as a unit pull the front wheels. You need the clearance for the plastic wheelhouses.


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