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#1046566 - 12/24/16 07:41 PM Long Tube Header Install/Removal  
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 539
Witness86SS Offline
Member
Witness86SS  Offline
Member

Joined: May 2016
Posts: 539
Hatfield, PA
I was never able to fully secure the back most bolt on the header by the AC box. I got it close but not tight enough and the gasket turned to swiss cheese. I just got a set of allen headed bolts and I should be able to secure it with a new gasket.

I'm having some trouble getting it out. Do I need to remove the AC box or can I get enough clearance by removing the starter?

It has a couple small holes by the flange that need welding.

Any advice on a paint for them after I clean up the rust?

These are hooker long tubes with a 3 inch collector.

Thanks!


Justin
1986 Black SS
Upgrades: 350 L05 - Hooker Longtubes - FlowMaster True Dual 2.5" - Electric Cutouts - Electric Fans - Transcooler - Proforged Steering Kit - Astro Shaft - AR62 OUTLAW II Wheels - Energy Suspension Bushings - Bitflipper Chip - 87 ECM - Moog Springs and Ball Joints - Bilstein Shocks - Bucket Seats
#1046570 - 12/24/16 08:56 PM Re: Long Tube Header Install/Removal [Re: Witness86SS]  
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 4,862
mmc427ss Offline
20+ Year
mmc427ss  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 4,862
Pottstown, Pa
The easiest way to get to that PITA bolt is from down below. A 12 point bolt is best (ARP) which allows a 12 point box more options for positioning it on the head of the bolt. Also having several different 12 point box wrenches allow you to tighten that bolt a little at a time with different wrenches. Been there, done that.

Not a lot of experience with the latest header paints available today, would think they are are comparable. The trick with any of them is getting the header clean enough, rust free, to bond. My last two sets of headers were Jethot coated. First set done in silver, dropped shipped to JetHot from Summit. In less than a year large areas of coating was missing. Second set of headers was a set of Hookers with their black paint. Ran them about 1000 miles then removed them. Had Jethot do their prep to them and coat in the black ceramic, still look very good after almost 10 years later. I think the trick with new headers is to heat cycle them numerous times to cook out the oils, then get them coated.
Bob

#1046606 - 12/27/16 01:01 AM Re: Long Tube Header Install/Removal [Re: Witness86SS]  
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,930
Dalt10 Offline
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20+ Year
Dalt10  Offline
Moderator
20+ Year

Member

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,930
Orlando,FL
I always kept a closed end wrench that was cut in half in my tool box just for that bolt.


"Make the rules up as you go"
US Army 1977- 1981
101st Airborne 31st Field Artillary FT Campbell, KY
1/1 Cav 280th ORD Schwabach, Germany
#1046607 - 12/27/16 01:09 AM Re: Long Tube Header Install/Removal [Re: Witness86SS]  
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 810
axisg Offline
Member
axisg  Offline
Member

Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 810
Toronto, Ontario
I have a cheapie short wrench that I heated with a torch and bent 45 deg for this task. It takes a long time but works from up top


TES Headers - done !
new cat-back exhaust - done !
5.7 swap - done !
3.73 posi rear - done !
blazer front brakes - done !
LS1 Rear Brakes - done!
transmission - rebuilt !
now looking for a replacement rear
__________________________________


#1046612 - 12/27/16 05:06 AM Re: Long Tube Header Install/Removal [Re: Witness86SS]  
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,715
BadSS Offline
20+ Year
BadSS  Offline
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Member

Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,715
Pearl, MS, 39208
The only thing that worked for me was the 5/16" head 6-point bolt with a high collar lock washer like below to keep it tight. My headers curved in so that you couldn't get a boxed in wrench on a twelve point bolt.


They're $3 at Summit or Speedway
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-4...CFYo9gQodtoEPaw

As others have said, you pretty much have to make your own tool to tighten the thing. I cut off a wrench to get to it. I tried about everything and the small head bolt, high collar lock washer, and custom cut wrench was the ONLY thing that worked. You HAVE to tighten them after the first heat cycle but after that I never had another gasket leak.

Last edited by BadSS; 12/27/16 05:15 AM.
#1046758 - 01/02/17 03:44 AM Re: Long Tube Header Install/Removal [Re: BadSS]  
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 539
Witness86SS Offline
Member
Witness86SS  Offline
Member

Joined: May 2016
Posts: 539
Hatfield, PA
Thanks!

I've got multiple shaved/cut wrenches but they never worked.

I got the header off. It was a matter of getting the car jacked up high enough.

Header had a hole at the flange. I wirewheeled the whole thing then patched the hole with a welder.

Painted the header with 500 degree caliper paint. Hopefully it works.

Put the header back in but the bolt by the ac unit is not long enough. The allen headed set was perfect, but the first 1/4 inch of the bolt hole is stripped out and noticeably wider. Ordered 1 inch bolts vs the 3/4th I tried.

I'm having trouble finding a store that sells flared 3 inch pipe or even flared adapters


Justin
1986 Black SS
Upgrades: 350 L05 - Hooker Longtubes - FlowMaster True Dual 2.5" - Electric Cutouts - Electric Fans - Transcooler - Proforged Steering Kit - Astro Shaft - AR62 OUTLAW II Wheels - Energy Suspension Bushings - Bitflipper Chip - 87 ECM - Moog Springs and Ball Joints - Bilstein Shocks - Bucket Seats

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