CELEBRATING 20 YEARS!

if you had everything available for a mechanical & hydraulic clutch setup, which one would you use? is there a benefit of one over the other?

I'm trying to figure out which setup to use.

thanks

When you say everything does that include the headers?

Header fitment issues are the number one reason a lot of us choose the hydraulic setup over mechanical.

I'm not planning on headers, unless I find a set of Edelbrock or Hookers, no full length headers.

Bellhousing wise, I have both Lakewoods 15015 & 15020, I currently have a '92 V8 T5, but I' thinking about a aftermarket Tremec T56 & using the adapter plate so that it will bolt to the old bellhousing.

Boy aren't you the lucky one have both the 15015 and 15020 Lakewoods, have you priced them lately?

I run a 15015 with the aftermarket T56/adapter plate, using the stock G pedal and Zbar, Steroids rods. My choice is still mech over hydraulic primarly because of the "feel".

As noted above headers are the problem with either. There isn't a lot of room on the left side between the frame and engine and generally hydraulic provides more.
Bob

I hear ya on not running headers...they are nothing but a pain in the arse on a street car.

Let me ask this, how are you going to drive the car? Just on the street, drag racing launches a lot? Any auto crosses or road course runs?

I bought a new hydraulic setup, filled bled and sealed end to end to put in my car when I did my install and I have no trouble with the feel of my clutch. The travel is pretty short and it is taking some time to get used to that, but I don't see that as a problem really.

I have read horror stories about trying to bleed the F-body style clutch master if it's been drained or taken apart...and I would suggest buying a new setup if you chose that route. It's $90.00 well spent.

Good luck either way, you'll LOVE rowing gears once you get it in.

Hydraulic! (Click the pic for a video)



If you are going to drive the car on the street, the "feel" will get old quickly as your knee and hip wear out. I've seen it happen too many times where guys build their cars to go fast with no other considerations, and then they hate driving them (and usually sell it).

To be fair, there's actually a bit more to my setup than just using hydraulic linkage. I'm trying to work out a deal with a company to produce these. If that doesn't work out, and I can't find anyone else to sell them, I'll probably make them myself (until someone copies my design and runs me out of business!)

my car will be driven on the street, no drag races (stock L69), maybe a hard launch every once in awhile, but for most parts I take it ez on my cars.

when I started collecting parts for the swap, I started with a 606 bellhousing, pedals & all the linkage, then I found out about the tilt of the T5 & how to modify the Hurst shifter (I have the body of a Super Competition & a brand new in box Billet Plus), then I got a bellhousing for a 83 Camaro (T5/mechanical clutch), when I purchased my T5, I removed it from a running 92 V8 RS Camaro, I got all the hydraulic setup & the bellhousing. Then on ebay I ran into some killer deals, 1st was a Centerforce billet flywheel, 2nd was a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch w/throwout bearing, then 3rd I got an extra Centerforce billet flywheel. About two months ago ran into a Lakewood 15020 (3rd Gen. Camaro site) & a friend of mine has a Lakewood 15015 bellhousing (he didn't have any idea what it was, he thought it was to fit a Ford tranny to Chevy motor, he's supposed to drop it off to me today. I figured I would run the Lakewood, just because I like my feet!

So, with all these good parts, I figured I should do it right. Thats why I ask the question, mechanical or hydraulic.

thanks for everyones input & help.

Hydraulic!! And get some flowtech afterburner headers and you'll have the best of both. I have ran that setup on 3 gbodys with no issues and they have plenty of clearance for everything, including dropping the starter with no issues.

I have dynatech long tube's on mine and love them. They had to be tweaked just a bit on the passenger side, but they'll fall right out the bottom of the car if you unbolt them and they give great ground clearance. Keeping the bolts torqued down is a PITA though, I need some locking fasteners.

Having ran both in the same car last year, the hydraulic is alot nicer. But I have a Tick master cylinder and that made all the difference. 300 well spent!
If you need the adapter plate for t5 to a T56 let me know, I bought one from The gear box but ended up with a quicktime bell.

hydraulic i would suggest. nice and easy on the knee and hip like was stated above. makes the car much nicer to drive and the pedal is very easy to push. im using a 4th generation camaro master and a ram hydraulic release bearing. here is pic. its a saginaw 4 speed though. but you can get them for the t5

well, it looks like the hydraulic setup gets everyones vote, now I need to decide on which hydraulic setup to use, thanks for everyones input.

The speed direct clutch linkage is pretty darn close to having a hydraulic setup